Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With the stock airbox you'll gain a bit more low down torque (easier around town) due to the restriction of the system.

If you put in a shielded CAI (impt or your performance will probably be worse) pod, true you may gain some top end but at the expensive of low down... and I spend more time in the legal speeds than not :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30060-air-filter/page/2/#findComment-612589
Share on other sites

Okay, I should have been more clearer with my english

you don't gain low down torque, but what I meant was the implied gaining of said torque that is lost when a airpod is used (due to the freer restriction on intake - not taking into account changes in intake temperatures)

haha that paragraph is even more confusing.. basically you lose torque going to a pod... putting on a airbox you 'gain' that lost torque...

IE airbox: more responsive, more low down torque but less flow/power at high revs

airpod: less responsive, less low down torque but higher flow/power at high revs

whether you want that power/torque down low or up high...

(assuming that intake temperatures remain the same with airbox vs pod which in practice will not be the case)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30060-air-filter/page/2/#findComment-612745
Share on other sites

i think a good pod(k and N, blitz) in a airtight, heat proof box with a feed pipe is the best option but i think no matter how good it is ull only gain about 6-7kw at wheels if ur lucky, ive heard of people gaining 10-15kw at wheel wif this setup but i dunno if its possible..would luv to find out though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30060-air-filter/page/2/#findComment-612857
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...