Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think they are usually mounted in tank (mine is in tank), unless you have a fancy setup with 2 or 3 044's.

There is a full tech feature of how to install an 044 pump into a 33's tank in HPI issue 18!

Basically it says:

purchase a barbed hose fitting before installation, as the 044 has a threaded screw fitting bfore the pump, not a hose clamp deal like the stockie.

Pull the stockie out and unscrew from bracket. never fit a pump without the factory strainer. Its essential to keep the length of the pickup line to the strainer the same.

044 wont fit into the std bracket, use hose clamps to hold it in. The stock wiring wont mate up- power and earth eyelets are too small --> replace with larger ones.

Then apparently its a simple job of putting the whole assembly back into the tank as before. --> on dyno for some fuel presure testing.

thats the jist of it!

Then apparently its a simple job of putting the whole assembly back into the tank as before.  --> on dyno for some fuel presure testing.

Ha! Simple? Putting the pump back into the tank was by far and away the hardest part of the whole job! You need to bend the bracket backwards and to the right, because the 044 is too big to fit into the corner of the tank where the original comes from. When you stick your head in and look around you'll see what I mean. It's very hard to get the exact positioning, I just used trial and error. If someone has a proper formula for it please let me know!

The factory bracket needs the top metal tube snipped off, and also the bottom bit which holds the factory bracket in place. To compensate for the loss of this bottom part you can bend a lip onto the bracket above where you cut it so that it's got some support.

I took the top fitting on mine off, which is the part you're meant to get a banjo connector for. I couldn't find one anywhere so in the end one of the shops I was at said there was probably no reason I couldn't remove that ball bearing valve thing, so I tried and it was all good. Just bought some barb adapters for top and bottom, then hoseclamped the hoses and sock on.

I took pics of the setup before I snipped anything off or bent anything into shape. This was before I realised that these 2 things were a must to be able to fit it. So all the pics I have are useless :D

JNR24, I wrote up a detailed description on this a few months ago, do a search:)

Also, make sure you dont have too much petrol in your tank, and get some cardboard and trace around the stock pump and pickup - that way when you put it back together with the new pump, you can get the pickup in the exact spot it should be.

You will need some hose from the pump to the pickup, so get your self about 6" to fit the barb fitting for the bottom of the fuel pump - make sure its a tight fit, as teh stock pickup is smaller than the barb fitting so needs to be clamped in place too. You will also need about 12" of hose from the banjo connector on top of the pump to the fuel tank top. Once again use hose clamps (pressure).

Good luck, its not a bad job to do as long as you have the bits before you start, unlike me:)

I was gonna put my 044 intake but was adviced from a reputable tuner that it will only last a few years intake then will cause problems!!

[pauline hanson]Please explain?[/pauline hanson]

I think that 044 pumps aren't very reliable full stop. The amount of failures I've heard about has to be a pretty high proportion considering how few cars have these pumps. This is the first time I've heard that being in or out of the fuel makes a difference though. I guess all I can do is cross my fingers that mine is reliable.

As much as these pumps are, they are still cheaper than some. My sister's Festiva fuel pump died last year, and she was quoted over $900 for a replacement! Not including labour. She got a cheapie aftermarket one.

How is the inconsistent noise of the 044 when its intank.

I've heard a few when they have been mounted out side and they have a really annoying surging sucking type sound, as its not getting enough petrol. for half a second its quiet then its loud again for a second then its quiet etc..

My external mounted 910 pump is the same on hot days after around 30mins of driving. Other than that it is quiet.

The "surging" noise happens because Skylines have a variable resistor for the pump. When 100% fuel pressure is not required ie at idle or light cruising, it increases the resistance and the fuel pump slows down.

With the PowerFC it seems to vary this a lot more between simply "on" or "off" like the factory ECU does. It also seems to want to vary a lot even when just idling, so the noise becomes a bit more annoying and "groaning" kinda because it dips up and down rather than just clicking between high and low pressure like with the factory ECU.

Joel, if your pump does the same noisy thing when hot then I guess they all do it. Design flaw maybe?

I was gonna put my 044 intake but was adviced from a reputable tuner that it will only last a few years intake then will cause problems!!

even if that is true, if you did it yourself you'd know its a 90min job to put a new one in, once you've modded your bracket probably less :D And i don't think the lifespan of even the stockie is that great to be honest..

Well, I've covered about 4000km with my Bosch 910 so far (mounted intank).. no problems, no noise, supplies fuel, does job. Still running stock ECU however. Meant to be fine for 250rwkw so it'll probably stay unless i have a reason to get something bigger.

The only time i hear it when its priming up at stop, when i switch to ACC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
×
×
  • Create New...