Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Normal fuel pressure reg - sets fuel pressure (say 40psi) above plenum pressure.

Adjustable allows you to adjust the amount above plenum pressure (so you can dial in more than stock pressure)

Rising rate, increases the fuel pressure the more boost pressure is detected. So instead of having say 40psi (above plenum pressure) at 1 bar, it may have 55psi above plenum pressure, at 2 bar it may have 80psi and so on. (these figures are all arbitary and used purely for demonstration)

Either an adjustable or rising rate fuel pressure regulator is used to stretch injectors beyond their nominal rating. Ok for small amounts, causes trouble when you go too far - better off using larger injectors if you are going for major increases in power and therefore fuel delivery requirements.

just fiited a nismo 280lt in tank pump to my r34 gtr...

fits straight in , no mods needed....comes with fuel tank

rubber ring also....

i think why muck around cutting things when you can sell your old gtr pump for 300 bucks and the nismo one

was 500 bucks...

saves running all over the place getting clamps and fittings and 1/2 day...

might be a different story for the gtst guys upgrading pumps.....

cheers.

It all comes down to reliability also.

If the Bosch pumps are apparently unreliable then what is another couple hundred dollars to save your engine leaning out and going pop a year or two later IF the bosch pump fails.

I think its a bit of gossip anyhow.

Hi guys, I have seen no evidence that shows a Nismo fuel pump is more reliable than a Bosch. So spending $200 more for a lower capacity pump, just because it has a Nismo sticker on it, is a waste of money, in my ever humble opinion.

If you are truly concernend with fuel pump reliability (rather than just having a name brand part on your car), then fittting a pressure switch in the fuel line connected up to a dashboard warming light is a far more effective method. And costs about 1/10th as much.

After all there is more than just the fuel pump involved, what if the fuel filter is blocked, having a Nismo pump is no help, but a low fuel pressure warning light sure is. What about damaged fuel lines? Blocked pick up? Faulty fuel pressure regulator? Boiled fuel? etc etc

BTW markr34gtr ,who did you get to pay $300 for a used GTR pump? I pick them up for $150 regularly, as they make a good upgrade for a road/sometimes track GTST. Sometimes we use a pair in parrallel, after the surge tank, on higher powered circuit cars using a standard GTST pump as the lifter.

Hope that helps

no worries sydney kid.

i just didnt also like the idea of having to modify parts to fit a expensive car...

i'd prob say the same as you if i had done a few mods to fit bosch pumps to the nissan in tank brackets but unless you have all the correct fittings and clamps,wiring

terminals etc to do the job you can easily waste a good 1/2 stuffing around...

any how i was going to get a bosch 044 also but just didnt want to mod my pump bracket etc etc....

maybe i am just a bit lazy.. ha ha..

Had this problem with mine as low as a 1/4 of a tank especially on the track. I believe I have fixed the problem (havent been back to the track) by moving the pickup 90deg to the left. Looking in the tank there is two sections seperated by a small rib. I think standard the pickup goes straight down and into a well to the right. Here I would get fuel surge. I moved the pickup left 90deg to the other side of the rib to the larger area of the tank. Theoretically I would have thought the smaller area would have acted like a surge tank. I tested it on the sharpest corner I could find on empty with no surge. Previously I could get it to surge every time.

Yes mine is noisy after having being worked hard. Idealy you should keep a quater tank of fuel to cover the pump for cooling.

Hope this helps. Not making any promises.

Let me know how you get on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...