Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Question


Recommended Posts

First time posting here, been lurking on here for a while now.

Anywho.

I'm going down to brisbane to have a look at a 1993 r33 gts-t with 120k on the clock (might get it, might not). Being on my P plates i know i cannot drive it (not until feb).

Since it will just be me and my mate, we're both on P's. Worse case I'll have to drag my ol' man along for the trip. Now I'm wondering if I disconnect the output of the turbo to the plenum and shove an air filter on at the plenum (or pull of the turbo and block off the exhaust), would I be able to drive it back legally (without getting hassled by the boys in blue) and without harming the car, it's about a 130km drive each way? And I don't plan on driving it anymore until feb.

Cheers

Edited by ResidentPsycho
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iwouldnt. Get the old man to drive it back for you. Turbo cars generally run a much lower compression :). Ever heard a car run with a blown cooler pipe ? Thats what it would run like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah. Dont bother. Be a nightmare of a thing to drive back like that if it would do it at all without a new ecu and tune. Not to mention the effort to do it.

Get someone else to bring it back for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol it wont drive with just a pod whacekd on at the plenum... will hardly idle at best.

and blocking the exhaust after removing the turbo............................... dot dot dot........ wheres the exhaust meant to get out? lol, No. dont do that.

+1 get someone to drive it home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My god your kidding me dude....

a) It wouldn't drive without the intercooler piping connected since it is an AFM'd car, would want to stall every split second and go through a tank of fuel in half an hour. Not to mention all the other problems caused from a turbo not being connected like oil leaking from the compresor wheel due there being no differential in pressure on the compressor side compared to the inside of the turbo.

b) Pull off the turbo and block off the exhaust, umm you think a car will drive with a blocked exhaust? And also, you really think it is just a matter of "pulling it off".

And finally, the most important one, why can't people understand this, it is registered and complianced as a turbo car. It doesn't matter if you shoved an Excel motor into it and drove it like that. Registered as a turbo car, complianced as a turbo car, therefore you can't drive it, simple as that.

Sorry if this sounds harsh man, but to say you've been on here reading the forums for a while and then ask a question like that....well really...

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

God.... i was only asking for some advice

A) i don't have a turbo car

B) none of my mates have turbo cars

C) most of the shit i've read from people on the net is just that...shit

so how am i suppose to learn without asking some questions? and i didn't know where the afm is on this car.

for the record, that whole blocking off idea i obviously didn't think right through now did i, it was just a last second thought before i posted.

(admins, can you please remove this thread for me? before i make an idiot of myself some more :banana: )

Edited by ResidentPsycho
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...