Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas,

Cleaning out my garage and some of the parts that I'd been collecting need to go.

- Stock R33 GTR Turbo's - Turbos have minimal shaft play on them $300

- R33 GTR Pull Type clutch - Clutch is an awesome one have done a couple of hard launches on it and its excellent with a bit of meat left on it, had it in the car but decided to take it out and put a Exedy Cera Kit in the car since i do a lot of city driving. Mechanic has told me that its a Nismo twin plate but i cant seem to find any name of anything on it. - $500

- R33 Gtst Suspension ABS Model - Fronts have Pedders Comfort gas with pedders stiffer springs (Pedders Part Number 2696A)and the rears have standard suspension with pedder stiffer springs(Pedders Part Number 2697). Reason i took them out was because ive put coil overs in the car. No leaks or any noises on the suspension and they have been off the car for about 3 months in the garage - $250

- Random Piping - After the conversion of the car i bought an entire box of r33 standard bov piping from Aaron at import monster and after putting it on looks like there were a couple of double up parts in there - Pm me with what pipe you want and how much your willing to pay

- R33GTSTAuto ECU - $100

- R33GTST Auto Gear surround Black with no ashtray - $50

All parts are located in the Nothern Suburbs of Melbourne, preffered option will be pickup but can courier parts at buyers expense. Parts will be sent the next day after payment is in my bank account.

Take them away guys.......and prices are negotiable as they need to go!!!!

post-27757-1261288625_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261288829_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261288864_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261288900_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261288966_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261289042_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261289083_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261289138_thumb.jpg

post-27757-1261289170_thumb.jpg

Suspension SOLD!!!

GDZL3R If your talking about the long plastic looking pipe that goes behind the radiator nope dnt have that one....

All the rest is still for sale.....

PRICE DROP!!!!

- Stock R33 GTR Turbo's - Turbos have minimal shaft play on them $250

- R33 GTR Pull Type clutch - Clutch is an awesome one have done a couple of hard launches on it and its excellent with a bit of meat left on it, had it in the car but decided to take it out and put a Exedy Cera Kit in the car since i do a lot of city driving. Mechanic has told me that its a Nismo twin plate but i cant seem to find any name of anything on it. - $450

PARTS NEED TO GO ASAP!!!!!!!!

Sorry Bud, Dont have the stock piping.....got some turbo's or clutch for sale thought ;)

Come on someone buy my turbos and clutch

BUMP

Also have a set of R33 Series 1 Seats for sale. I got given a pair Monza racing seats and Im willing to swap with cash my way if anyone has the correct rails to suit those seats. Let me know please. Seats are in good nik, no rips or tears anywhere.

Fellas got some info on the clutch found some numbers on the front of the clutch and found these numbers 9268200502 and 6e21 which is a nismo gmax spec 1 which has a fair bit of meat on it.

Take it away fellas hurry......

manage13 - will check on that pipe bud and will let you know.

Hope everyone had a good new year

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...