Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

[pyro-ns]

nice work Duncan, the 30s do drive alot nicer than 25/26 capacity motors, especially in stop start traffic they just pull away from idle with ease.

You can buy the internal oil pickup with the pro engines sump adaptor kit and it bolts straight on without any hassle.

One thing to mention is when choosing this combo i feel a small turbo is not such a good idea (not aimed at you duncan). I run a 3076r on mine and it suffers from incrediblely shocking fuel economy, due to the car sitting on 0 on the vac/boost gauge at 100kmh on the freeway. Mines making over 20psi at 2900rpm which when on 100kmh on freeway its sitting on 2700rpm or so doesnt leave much until its wanting to get onto boost.

Im going to bolt my t04z on mine and see how it is, then probably get some 2860-5 lowmounts for longterm to keep it looking stock (i run 26 head)

just out of curiosity, what sort of boost controller are you running?

[unique1]

just out of curiosity, what sort of boost controller are you running?

eboost 2

[bubba]

Another happy twincam 30 owner!!

I've got a 30DET in my 32 (way overkill) and have always told myself that if anything happens to the Stags neo, it will get a 30 too

[MBS206]

Duncan... May I be the first to say... I HATE YOU!

You're not allowed more fast cars, yet alone an awesomely built RB25/30 with AWD!!!

I want AWD...

Looks schweet... Is it auto or manual?

[Duncan]

ahh it's been manual for ages - the auto was the first thing to go I just could not live with the car making it's own gear selections.

second round of mods was the brakes (8 spot) + sydneykid's full suspension setup.

this round started when I had 2 oil pump seals fail in 3 months....I figured if I'm going to build a motor it may as well be a 30 instead of just another 25

car is amazing at low revs, its the car nissan should have built in the first place.

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

haha be waiting to see a dyno run on youtube

[Duncan]

ahh I don't think it will be any sort of world beater, maybe 250kw at 18-20psi (that was about the goal).

But I'll get an overlay of my setup and a standard one

[66yostagea]

The plenum fit. Found a DIY in Skylines Forum. Very comprehensive, 17 pages. Waiting for some ink for the printer then I will copy.

[NYTSKY]

Looks good Duncan.

But 10K for drive in-out including parts and labour seems really cheap to me.

Do you have an itemised invoice? (not to post, just asking)

[Swiper the Fox]

Looks good Duncan.

But 10K for drive in-out including parts and labour seems really cheap to me.

Do you have an itemised invoice? (not to post, just asking)

It may have been an investment by Hills to look after Duncan considering his position here on the forums. He has already been in two threads backing their work...maybe Mark has turned over a new leaf and is doing the right thing by people for a change. When you take into account $800 of that is tied up in just the sump adaptor i cannot work out how it can be done for that price

Does look the goods though.

Edited January 30, 2010 by DiRTgarage

[dirtyRS4]

Looks good Duncan.

But 10K for drive in-out including parts and labour seems really cheap to me.

Do you have an itemised invoice? (not to post, just asking)

Yeah no shit, but I bet alot is china stuff at 10k. With a forged 25/26 and an N1 oil pump it sounds bullet proof and reliable. What size compressor housing did you use to get decent low down spool on tap? Good methodical thought out build - clean as man. Bigger injectors, cams coming?

I'll have to post up pics of my mates blueprinted LS1 motor in a S13, it is tighter than a nuns nasties, now I believe anything can be done. But I found this car very interesting, I had one of these 15 years back. Holden muscle meets Japanese goodness. Damn I missed summernats again. Enjoy.

Edited January 31, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[Duncan]

yeah I did receive an invoice, and yes I personally suspect some things were missing, eg I didn't see the new smaller battery for instance. But a lot of the stuff was on an exchange basis too, so lets call it $10k + a stuffed rb25 motor including plenum and manifolds + return style intercooler.

I already had the PFC, fuel pump etc.

So $10k covered the forged bottom end build including sump adapter, an exchange skyline head, and chinese plenum/zorst manifold/turbo, and all the fabrication of cooler pipes, pod shield, tune etc. I thought it was time to give china's finest stuff a go and see if it can meet everyday requirements....I am far from convinced that we all need top $$$ stuff from japan for everyday builds.

[Duncan]

the turbo is a generic ebay "T04E" or t3/t4 if you prefer. a little larger than standard rb25 and only bush bearing. It comes on beautifully.....in fact towing the club trailer up a steep hill in the wet today I got 4 wheel spin at about 2500 when full boost came on so early lol.

no plan for a different turbo, cams, injectors, anything else - this is just a daily and tow car where I figured the extra capacity would be perfect. And I'm very happy with the results.

[dirtyRS4]

the turbo is a generic ebay "T04E" or t3/t4 if you prefer. a little larger than standard rb25 and only bush bearing. It comes on beautifully.....in fact towing the club trailer up a steep hill in the wet today I got 4 wheel spin at about 2500 when full boost came on so early lol.

no plan for a different turbo, cams, injectors, anything else - this is just a daily and tow car where I figured the extra capacity would be perfect. And I'm very happy with the results.

Nice, 250 kw all day is enuf power and reliability is a must. Because the stag didnt sell I am heading down a path like KIwiRS4T's build. JDM and second hand stuff on the cheap until I run outta money or work or both. I reckon going china wasnt such a bad idea unless your driving a track car as a daily duo and i bet it still goes hard on boost and hasnt broken yet.

I thinks i'll power up the stag methodically and bypass the big turbz, cams, mani, forging, porting, 25/26 scenario and think through over doing it as it is a heavy fuel thirsty tank. (And will only get worse.) High flows time, injectors, ecu, boost, suspension mods, minor cosmetics and decent dyno time is all shes getn. Major 100k service is done with metal headgasket, timing belt, seals and factory gasket kit, plugs, coilpacks, lambda sensor, N1 water pump etc. Brakes are also done.

In the future building a cheap bang for your buck RB30ET VL turbz, is lookn good as a prospect for me.

Edited February 1, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[66yostagea]

The JJ plenum I have looks the same as Duncans. It is very well cast and finished and chromed. So I guess it is from China.Only thing that perturbs me a bit is shrinking and sealing the radiator hose connection.

Have given up a few things and will now get a cross flow fmic, it seems the easiest, and cheapest way to go.

[WHITER33GTS-T]

How is the stag drive line going to handle the 25/30 and the extra torque...?

I have a 26/30 in my R33 that i want to drop in a awd stag as a sleeper, Can the stock auto be modded enough to handle 500rwkw..?

[Duncan]

good question! I understand that some of the guys on here have indeed modified the autos to hold more power, but that is not an issue for me. I converted to manual ages ago, so my problem was finding a clutch that could hold the torque but still slips nicely for towing duties. No sign of trouble with diffs/tailshaft/gearbox/driveshafts but I'm not exactly doing skids all day.

I'm not sure I have the right clutch (ie it takes the torque but doesn't slip as well as I would like).

It is actually back for it's full boost tune now so i should have results soon. Unfortunately the workshop owner is off sick atm so it will be a few days more.

Just a reminder looking back through this thread. I was looking for strong low down torque and reliability. I am very happy with the outcome, especially considering the price. I do have concerns (possible?) about the reliabilty of so much china stuff...but then again I think those guys have come a long way so I am willing to give it a chance.

This motor will not make 400kw and do great skids. I just want a great tow car and I am sure I have got it. 250awkw is absolutely heaps of power in the real world and I think this setup will be OK for it.

[KiwiRS4T]

You will not regret building a strong bottom end as your engine should be pretty much bullet proof. I am interested to see your dyno chart after your next tune - I would be surprised if you do not exceed 250awkw but in any case i am sure you will have strong top gear acceleration.

[unique1]

How is the stag drive line going to handle the 25/30 and the extra torque...?

I have a 26/30 in my R33 that i want to drop in a awd stag as a sleeper, Can the stock auto be modded enough to handle 500rwkw..?

ive ran 470rwkw through a stagea before but it did have gtr rear end and manual (ppg box), i doubt auto will handle that sort of power. The stock axles snapped with only 250rwkw range when motor was stocker with bolt ons. I chucked in a gtr diff/axles/uni joints and it handled all the punishment ive thrown at it. They are heavy cars that will never handle like a gtr but great sleepers. I'd just buy a gtr if i was you, save the stuff around and have an allround package. Im putting that engine in a gtr at the moment and the stagea now runs a 26/30 basic setup as a daily. Thats my 2c worth from doing the exact same things

[darrinspencer]

Hey Duncan, need some urgent info on the inlet plenum

Looking at the engine pic it appears to have no adaptor between the throtle body and the inlet plenum plus they have turned it over 180 deg so that the throtle cable does not foul the fuse box. To do this you need a longer cable. What cable did they use?

Also the pipe between the intercooler and throtle body, where does it go thru the chassis? Thru the vertical section below the battery or have they done down thry the battery tray

Can you post a few close up pic's for more detail