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Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)


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Hey Duncan, need some urgent info on the inlet plenum

Looking at the engine pic it appears to have no adaptor between the throtle body and the inlet plenum plus they have turned it over 180 deg so that the throtle cable does not foul the fuse box. To do this you need a longer cable. What cable did they use?

Also the pipe between the intercooler and throtle body, where does it go thru the chassis? Thru the vertical section below the battery or have they done down thry the battery tray

Can you post a few close up pic's for more detail

Hey Darrin,

Im doing exactly the same. Have the plenum in, waiting for some silicones from JJ.

I've asked Duncan the same Q's. I've got the T/B in the way it was fitted, but I have spacer. Going to get an R31 throttle cable. Have had to hack into fuse box. Will be going down thru battery platform then along under radiator to pas side, then up to turbo outlet. Have sent fmic back to JJ and ordered a smaller unit as I am not big HP. Coller is 40% bigger than R34 side mount.

Have a look at ix9 post on Skylines. It is not bad, but a bit ambiguous at times.Search under Greddy plenum fit.

PM me if you want more info.

Yep I think that about covered it :blush:

throttle cable mounts to the motor side of the throttle body (might be upside down, not sure), and there is an adapter because I am using the standard throttle - I guess these plenums are made to allow for bigger throttles/more power than I need.

still had to cut the battery box slightly for TPS clearance.

throttle cable is r31 skyline but apparently ca18/s13 one also is fine.

the cooler pipe goes thru where the battery tray was quite close the chasis rail, I've fitted a smaller odysey battery in there now instead.

How is yours going Hugh, ready to run?

Cheers

I had a few more drinks last night and out the thinking cap on

I will be turning the throtle body around like yours Duncan. Throwing away the throtle body adaptor and making a new one from 10mm plate to clear the fuse box

Yesterday a bought a z32 300zx cable which is approx a foot longer which should work. How much longer is the R31 or s13 ones?

I am using a series 2 R33 throttle body as the neo body has the provision for traction control. ie too long.

Tring to reuse the hole I already have from the old fmic, so will be leaving the battery as is.

Just went bought a die grinder to clean up the plenum. A few of the bolt holes to the head aren't cast very well.

not really sure how much longer it was but it came up right. I had a second issue because my car has cruise control and the standard TB has nowhere to put that, they guys connected the cruise control cable to the main throttle cable just before the TB and it is working a treat.

yeah be careful with fit and flatness on the plenum....some people have no trouble others have heaps....typical china quality control (ie non existant...you might be lucky). most important make sure the gasket surface is flat or you will have no luck getting a proper seal. mine was milled flat before installation

I got a bit confused looking at some pics in Skylines. I have never seen under the bonnet of an R33 and it seems to me now that the 33 fuse box is different, so I will be mounting the TB the same as Duncan and getting the R31 cable as I now have a Sil and the cable is about the same as the Stagea's.

I expect the smaller fmic later this week so hopefully I should be near completion in two weeks.

Incidently I straight edged the plenum before fitting and it was .003" max out, which is pretty good for China.

Just an update. I was perturbed that Duncan's mount meant that the washer bottle had to be moved.Well I have worked out how to do it without moving the bottle. I still come down through the battery platform but there is still room to mount two Absorbed Power 12V batteries, model GT 12-18. Each has 270 CCA so they will give plenty of power for amps.

As I am not after big KWs I am using a cross flow JJ 550X140X65. It fits neatly in the available space and I wont have to move the tranny cooler, and the original input hose to the sidemount fits the set up perfectly.

There is a bit to cut off the front of the rails, not a lot and cut out the space behind the No plate and move it to the side.

When its all together I will do a DIY, Stagea specific, if needed.

good to hear hugh....got any pics??

Plenty of pics but Picasa wont let me send them. Have to get an IT brain to fix.

When its all together I will do a DIY, Stagea specific, if needed.

Good work hugh. Lol, china stuff is always out which is painful. This relocation issue and correct throttle cable sorted will be helpful and should be put in the DIY section, saves a fair bit of f**kn around knowing when upgrading plenum. Im sure there are a few people wanting to go down this path. Ive always believed in purpose built and what is yours? FYI picasa sucks.

This is the way to go if your building a 25/30, chuckies is steadily coming along. Building a forged motor and strong bottem end leaves heaps of room to play with. Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Personally there are lots of reasons that I went rb30 instead of stroker rb26. here are some

cheaper bottom end

ok, much cheaper bottom end. $000s.

more capacity (yes, there is no substitute for cubes)

more torque at the same revs. and less revs required for longer, happier life.

better rod/stroke ratio (rb26 is already terrible, stroked rb26 are worse again)

down sides for the rb30:

stuffing around with the impact of the taller block - gearbox bolts, radiator hoses, dump pipes, intake.

ahh yeah not ready to put on yet....it is at the power coater's (CRAVED) getting re-done.

but since I left him with

2 sway bars

2 timing belt covers

4 cam covers

1 twin turbo pipe

4 coil pack covers

1 radiator

1 intercooler

1 oil cooler

1 sump

2 turbo housings

I can't complain about it taking a few weeks :(

I told him to "surprise" me with the new colour....I'm a bit nervous.

I'll ring Chris and tell him that you wanted bright pink with Barbie stickers then, okay Duncan? At least Kel will be happy!

:(

Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Simon has one in his 260RS

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-277481129.htm

but yes, RB30 much cheaper.

Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Simon has one in his 260RS

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-277481129.htm

but yes, RB30 much cheaper.

What people forget is the Jap's "had to" develop stroker kits for rb26 as the Rb30 block was never sold in Japan

For once we are luckier than the Jap's

Imagine how many killer Rb30's would be in Japan if they had them.

Rb30 with Neo 25 head is one of the best combo's. I can not wait to do it later this year.

Would just be nice to have 26 ITB's to make it perfect.

Yeah, I have just thrown this one out there cause I know that the 2.8l tomei stroker kit is a direct fit for 25s and 26s now and OS Giken have had a RB30DETT package for a while. Of course more cubes, ideal compression and better rod/stroke ratio is going to lenghthen the life of a motor with more torque and at same revs. I remembered after that simon from nz had a tomei kit and has proved good power figures, I have not seen the dyno results for a 25/30 build compared on a level playing field, let alone on the road. What i do know is that logistically adding RB30 gear is not as simple as perceived, from reading the (RB30 forum section) and have always wondered why not go full blown RB30 like bob is going for instead of the 25/30 and 26/30 combo and save the f**k around? The parts needed for this type of build do need a fair bit of overengineering and i know that RB30 blocks are cheap as, hence why people think they should do this in the first place but dont figure in the rest. Just want to see what is best bang for your buck across the board when spending this sort of money. Sorry to question Uncle Duncs opinion, but no one else seems to want to, lol. I still think going on others users builds that you have not factored in a accurate drive in / drive out price. Dont get me wrong your infinite wisdom is appreciated. NZ has the best experience with drag applications and info on these builds aswell. Check out Rotorua Import Pro Shop (RIPS). They are over this scenario and are moving on to 1400hp RB33s. I suppose it all comes down to budget and purpose.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Can I ask which RB30 block you guys are using to keep this conversion legal in NSW? If you are using 'other' techniques that you would rather not discuss publicly, i'd like to hear about them via PM if possible :P

Rb30 with Neo 25 head is one of the best combo's. I can not wait to do it later this year.

Would just be nice to have 26 ITB's to make it perfect.

GTiR and GTR have solid lifters and ITBs as standard equipment. 26 head on a 30 is the way to go but we are talkn RB25DET or Neo VVt so both is good. Duncan has gone about this correctly, but if your after big hp think again. In my opinion it is still much easier to build a rwd VL with this setup by not f**king around with various understated costs and the adaptor plate needed for the 4WD sump issues as Tangles has said before. I might word Ska up on it ,lol. Ultimate summernats bogan mobile.

Edited by dirtyRS4

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