Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

[Duncan]

Took it for a run up the back way to Bathurst the other day then dropped some friends back at the airport and home. Long day in a car that is more zoomy than cruisey but it did well.

However....while pottering through sydney traffic getting the shits about MAP sensors, twin plate clutches and lumpy cams I heard a grating start out of the front brakes.  I haven't had the wheels off for a while but I do keep an eye on the pads and they weren't due for replacement

Took the front wheels off, driver's side was fine but navigator side has been wearing very unevenly. The wheel bearings seem fine so I assume sticking pistons in the caliper.

To be fair, these calipers have been on the car since 2013 and have done some hard days work in that time. The pads were almost due for replacement, probably 30%, the discs measured up at 30.6mm which I'm fine with, but sticking pistons is an issue.  There are no dust covers on these calipers and I guess they are intended to be thrown away and replaced.

Otherwise the calipers, discs, pads, hardware has all stood up pretty well, so depending on replacement cost for a caliper or 2 they have been good value

The disc took a little damage but looks good enough to me to use again

[Duncan]

I've been using the car regularly while the Fuga is off the road having the boot pulled back out from the hatchback it was changed into, and realised a few things needed attention.

The main one is doing something about the gauges and head unit, but more on that once I sort out a final problem

While I was there, I thought I 'd check out the shifter which had been very sloppy recently. Well, as they say, there's your problem.....

Changed the shifter bush across to an old spare (ex race car like pretty much everything else in the Stagea), and sure enough it is much nicer now.

Still need to sort out the cooling problem, it overheats when idling. I picked up a GKtech fan and RB adapter but it doesn't fit. If I can get that sorted and it doesn't improve things I guess a new rad is next on the list (it has new coolant and I've done a pressure test to confirm no leaks).

I also have a rear main leak and a clunk under power that has been there for a while, but they can both wait until I have time and a hoist.

[Duncan]

Changed the starter motor the other day as the old one was only working every few turns of the key. Probably just needed a solenoid but whole units are readily available aftermarket so I went that way, got one from EFI Solutions along with a factory shifter boot and bonnet stops.

It's funny how the same job can be quite different in slightly different chassis. In the race car it is all nice and clean, and easy to access with no heater hoses etc under the plenum. In the Stagea with the Rb30 and front facing plenum it was actually a pit of a pain to get the access I needed to the top bolt. In the end I realised a long spanner could access the bolt from above due to the shape of the plenum which was nice, there had been some swearing up until then

not a good pic, but this is the long spanner on the top bolt, with the plenum blurry in the foreground

As it happens the old one must have been pretty worn anyway as the new starter turns the engine a lot faster and she starts easier which is nice.

[Duncan]

Onto the head unit / gauges / phone holder.

When I first got the stagea back in the 2006, it had the factory head unit and I decided to replace it with a fancy one with, wait for it....a backup camera! I also added a digital TV receiver when that was launched to watch Neighbours while stuck in traffic. It was a super fancy expensive thing with a screen that retracted into the dash when powered up (and that covered up the AC controls when open).

Then, on Yahoo japan I came across a Stagea Nismo dash (they include a video screen in the middle) and an Epson EJ1 computer/display which I wired in. The EJ1 output was run to both the head unit and the dash which was pretty cool. Very 90s look (sadly the screen in the nismo dash died and is still at the repairer to be fixed 6 years later...)

Fast forward about a decade and bluetooth was becoming a thing, so I added a Parrot 9200 bluetooth unit.

Then, when I moved from PowerFC to Link I was annoyed that there was no ECU monitoring so I added a CAN gauge as well, right next to the phone holder that I used for calls, sat nav etc

Bottom line, there were bits and pieces all over the interior, and it all looked a bit...."period correct"

[Duncan]

So after an odd shouty thread in the audio forum 

about the Xanavi head unit conversions to English like I did in the Fuga, I got to wondering if an Android head unit could be a better way to go and replace all of the above. I did a little research and decided on an ATOTO S8 Gen2 double din unit.

Key things for me, it included:

• Bluetooth/handsfree calling
• HD rear view camera
• Forward facing camera
• 4g modem and Wifi built in (don't buy an Android head unit without data capability, it is pretty useless or at least inconvenient)
• Tyre Pressure monitoring
• Apps can be installed (this is a big one for the expensive head units from name brands, most of them are locked down to their choice of Apps which is pretty anti-Android). Sat nav etc are just like on a phone, I use Tom Tom app
• Music player from SD car
• Split screen apps, for example half sat nav and half music player
• It does do other stuff that you might care about like Android auto but I hate how that cripples the phone when it is on

I went with this one, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003652806817.html

cost about $1000 including all the add ons and shipping was much quicker than quoted, about 7 days. Be aware the local sellers of these units don't know much about the spec, and you have to buy the "A" model for Australian 4G bands, particularly Telstra 4GX (Band 28) which is what most rural coverage uses. If you get the "N" model you won't get decent service locally.

[Duncan]

Physical install was very straight forward. The stagea already had an ISO adapter on it's harness from the Parrot install, so that part was literally just unplug and replug. The box included ISO to head unit and an option of wire in pigtails to the head unit if you don't have ISO plugs in place. I did earth the handbrake input, but later found there is an option in the software to prevent watching video while driving that you can turn off, so that was not necessary.

Front Camera was simple, that is a single USB cable from the dash to the head unit. 4g and Wifi antennas are just on the left and right side of the dash near the windscreen vents and the GPS receiver I stuck on top of the clock in the middle of the dash. All pretty straightforward if a bit time consuming.

The reverse camera was more of a pain and I'm not sure where I went wrong. Mounting the camera is a hassle in the stagea because the location is a reasonably thick plastic panel with no real access behind, so nut + bolt was not an option. I tried to rivnut it but thick, soft plastic won't let a rivnut grip so I ended up using self tappers to hold the camera in place. Also, running the wire is a bit of a pain in a long car with brittle plastic trims so that took some stuffing around.

Then, the camera would not turn on when I put the car in reverse, even though I had tapped the reverse lights into the supplied loom. When I applied 12v to that wire at the head unit it did turn on the reverse camera so the issue was in the supplied loom to the rear of the car somewhere. In the end I rewired that to the Reverse globe signal on the dash and everything worked OK.

Next issue, the 4G would not connect. I don't know if it is an Telstra sim only issue but the APN settings in the head unit were incorrect which prevented connection, and even better the software doesn't let you fix them directly. I had to download an APN editing app to fix that, once I had I got good, stable 4g connection.

Final install issue, the tyre pressure monitoring would not work most of the time. That is still not fixed, a new receiver is on the way from China.

Overall it was a pretty straightforward install, a little patience required for all the internal wiring. The ATOTO customer service was excellent with responses within 24 hours and lots of support to resolve those issues so that is no concern.

Lots of bits and pieces removed (no, the doors are not related), but old head unit, bluetooth, EJ1, reverse cam etc all replaced by the new head unit

[Duncan]

Once all that was sorted, it was on to displaying the Link data on the head unit using Real Dash.

Physically, that is pretty straightforward. In my case I had to add a cable to CAN2 in the ECU because CAN 1 was already set up for other uses (WB02 and the old CAN gauge). The Link tuning USB cable does not work on G4X plug ins, and apparently ODB is noticeably slow to update, so you need to use a CAN/USB adapter like this one:

https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html 

I bought it directly from them, fast shipping from China, no hassles.

I made up a small piggyback loom for the CAN using a DTM4 plug so that it is still available for future use and plugged it in. That was pretty straight forward, although I did have CAN Hi and Lo around the wrong way at the Seeed at first which threw me. Correct wiring is Hi White, Lo Green and Black earth (apparently earth may not be necessary but I already had + and - in the CAN wiring so I connected it). 

From there, just plug the adapter into the Link CAN and the USB into a head unit USB and it is physically good to go.

There is an excellent video on the Link forums about how to configure the connection, it is a bit fiddly. https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8637-introducing-realdash-a-dashboard-app-for-android-windows/ 

Note, you have to be logged in to see the video attached in the first post.

After everything there was followed I got a connection between the Link and Real Dash and it was OK to display all data. I used a slightly modified XML file which I'll attach here once I work out how. The main issue with the delivered Transmit DASH2PRO is the Manifold Gauge Pressure is incorrectly labelled Manifold Absolute Pressure, and it is in Bar not PSI which is not my preference so that XML file fixes that.

Finished install is simple (and I can see my AC controls for the first time in 15 years), all the bits and screens are replaced by the double din unit

Some pics of the Real Dash (terrible reflections). It is pretty clunky to modify but with some small changes a couple of the delivered or low cost dash boards are working for me for now.

There are a bunch of much fancier dash layouts depending what you are after, but I am looking for the data displays not just a simple speedo/tacho sort of thing.

[soviet_merlin]

Thanks for writing this up! The ATOTO unit looks really good in there, like it belongs. Big plus that it has physical buttons as well for volume control. Trying to quickly control volume on a touch screen whilst driving can be a pain.

Noted down for when I ever want to go down the double DIN path.

[Duncan]

Yeah good point, physical buttons look like a down side because they take up screen space, but in practice they are much easier to use when you are driving.

They also had a steering wheel control option that I didn't go with, I have wheel buttons on the titan and fuga and while I do use them it's not such a big deal to go to the head unit

I went with a 7" double din in this case because of the available space, but they do have larger floating/tablet styles ones and ones with volume dials instead of buttons too

[Duncan]

Right, so still been using the Stagea heaps as the Fuga is not back yet (maybe next week they say).

But, unfortunately it failed to proceed (as the Bentley people would say) and Kel had to give me a flat tow back home.  Not to the bottom of that issue yet so I'll post up more once it is sorted.

In the meantime, I had an interesting discovery (noting, I might be the only person in the R chassis world who didn't already know this). As part of chasing what seems to be a fuel issue, I dropped the fuel tank in the Stagea. Since I had just done this in the race car a few weeks back it struck me they were suspiciously similar.

Put them side by side, and voila, WGNC34 and BNR32 fuel tanks are interchangeable (R32 on left)

Not exactly identical as there are different breathers between them (R32 on right) 

Different part numbers but identical outer shape

Also the stagea tank has some sort of baffling internally (terrible focus)

And, in an cool discovery for anyone tracking a R32 GTR, the good people at Nissan fitted a factory roll over valve in the stagea fuel tank filler neck that would also fit in a 32. No idea if they are still available new but they look like a good thing.

[GTSBoy]

You might not be the only person who didn't know. You might be the only person who ever discovered it.

[Victory]

Hi Duncan

Where is the one way valve located in the attached parts diagram - is it in the filler neck part 17220Q?

[Duncan]

Interesting. That diagram you show matches amayama

The part I showed was at the bottom of the filler neck at the tank inlet, but neither this pic nor yours shows a part there.

It does however show a part 17370M which is described as "anti roll over valve" in a totally different area

I haven't come across this before but I assume it was some sort of running change during the series (mine is very late model S1), so maybe it is a S2 part and the catalogue is wrong for this vin (or maybe the tank in mine is actually from another model)

If someone can share a S2 VIN, I can check that out

[Duncan]

With apologies to Bad Obsession Motorsport, I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) for radiator air guide for the Stagea over the weekend.

Cardboard and tape transferred to some coreflute

Cut out

Installed

 

[Victory]

Coreflute has to be heaps easier to work with than the aluminium sheet that we have used on our R33's to achieve the same outcome. Aluminium sheet can be difficult to bend into a curve to go around protrusions.

The most important question is did you keep the template for me?

[Duncan]

ha! yeah for once something from this car would fit other stageas! (well except around the intercooler pipers but that bit was pretty simple.

a long, long time ago in a workshop far, far away (ie, UAS) corflute was put in the front of the race car and it has lasted at least 10 years. It doesn't look super tough but afterall it is only trying to keep stray airflow on the straight and narrow so it seems to work OK.  

[Duncan]

Still don't know why the car is stalling (although I have a hint now, looks like ECU is turning down the injector duty cycle until it stalls).

In the meantime, proof nissan's japanese engineers have that kooky sense of humour normally reserved for race mechanics.

I was looking under the front bumper of the stagea today, and found this sticker.

I used google translate, it says "If you can read this please turn this prestige touring wagon that is functional yet comfortable back over"

[Duncan]

Right, so while continuing to avoid the stalling issue, I decided to fix the clunk under acceleration by changing the diff bushes. Of course, it turned out not to be the diff bushes, they were in pretty good condition, but by the time I got there, there was no point turning back without doing the job.

So, here's the DIY, no hoist steps. Frankly, unless you are super committed this is a job for a workshop with a hoist, it took me about 8 hours all up on a cold floor. On a hoist would be half that and much more comfortable.

First, jack up your car (as Marty would say). Then, to save time, throw some dirt, oil and 80% of your tools all over the ground. Securely support it on stands under the subframe because there is going to be banging and swearing.

I wasn't sure whether the zorst would be in the way (it is, remove it right back to the cat), and I left the fuel tank in until I got to the bush removal (dumb, I had to remove it anyway and the space would have been nice while I was doing the other work). Also take both rear wheels off, you will need that space too.

In a stagea and R32, fuel tank removal is:

1. pop the fuel filler out of the panel behind the fuel cap. It is just a rubber grommet and comes out easily. Important, undo the fuel cap and leave it in loosely to prevent tank pressure pumping all the fuel out all over everything later

2. remove the plastic cover behind the right rear wheel. It will probably be held on be a collection of screws and broken clips that you should replace. There is 1 bolt holding the fuel neck to the car to remove

3. Inside the rear, remove the centre cover over the spare tyre and the right side cover over the fuel tank access cover. The access cover is held down by 4 bolts, remove them

4. Unplug both the 2 pin (fuel pump power) and 3 pin (fuel level sender and light) and then crank the car over for about 10 seconds to empty the fuel lines. Then, undo the hose clamp on the return (left) and feed (right), and use some of those nifty host pliers to pull both lines off. If you don't have nifty hose pliers it can be a pain, use a set of linesman's pliers to twist the hose 90o to break any seal between the rubber and the pipe, then carefully use those same pliers to grab the hose just past where the pipe is inside and slowly pull the hose off without squeezing too hard. If you didn't undo the fuel cap at step 1, the tank will probably be pumping fuel all over the floor now

5. Remove the 2 heat shields on the right front of the tank, not required to remove the tank but it makes it easier, and they will be in the way later

6. Put a jack under the middle of the tank front to rear (don't forget to make sure it is full of fuel to spill everywhere and be much heavier) and about 2/3 of the way to the right left to right, that is approximately the balance point but move it slowly, the fuel will slosh and over balance it if you don't

7. Undo the right rear and front left bolts holding the fuel tank straps. It will stay in place if you did step 6. Swing the straps out of the way as much as you can.

8. drop the tank smoothly about 1/4 of the way, and then via either the fuel pump access panel or through the right rear wheel arch, undo the clamp and remove the breather line near the fuel tank lid.

9. Slowly bring it down and out

[Duncan]

Then, onto diff removal.

Remember to leave all your tools in the dirt and oil you threw down in step 1. By now you probably have petrol in the mix too.

1. unbolt the drive shafts from the diff, there are 6x 12mm headed bolts each side. Access on the diff side is tight, use a ring spanner there if you can but an open ended spanner might be required. Compress the driveshaft on the CV joints so it comes out of the diff stub axle, and if possible rest it above the diff

2. unbolt the tailshaft from the diff. This requires an 8mm (I think?) hex head and ideally you will have a 8mm hex on 1/2" so you can crack them with a breaker bar then undo with a ratchet. I wouldn't use a rattle gun as hex heads can strip quickly if the socket is not seated properly. If doing it with a breaker bar you will need a long pry bar to stop the tail shaft turning, jamb it between another bolt head and the chassis. Don't forget to bang yourself in the head with the pry bar and/or breaker bar a couple of times. Once the bolts are out you can push the driveshaft forwards so it comes out of the diff flange. Leave it hanging somewhere that you can whack your head on it in future steps. If you didn't take the fuel tank out you probably can't get at those bolts from behind, it is possible to get a spanner in there from the side

3. From the gap where the fuel tank was, get a 12mm socket on an extension and remove the 2 rear bolts that hold the ATTESSA pump on to the diff. For the front one you need long arms and access from the right rear wheel well. Lift the pump off the diff a little so it doesn't try to leave with the diff.

4. There is also a breather from the diff cover to the chassis. I removed it by not noticing it and dropping the diff, but a better plan would be to undo the clamp and remove the hose; it is probably easiest at the chassis end as the diff end is pretty tight.

5. Put a jack under the diff, centred left to right and about 75% towards the rear.  Undo the 2 rear mounts, 19mm nuts (noting there should be a second nut holding an earth strap for ATTESSA, it is important this goes back on.)

6. Undo the 2 front mounts (17mm bolts) and drop the jack a little; the diff should tilt forward as the rear studs are still holding it. You will need to move the diff forward to disengage those studs, and need to drop the front to allow clearance for the casing and ATTESSA pump mount to the subframe. Once the rear studs are clear of the subframe it is down and out.

[Duncan]

Right, now you can start the job of bush removal.  This does require a couple of specialist tools which is a good reason to get someone else to do it.

Firstly, you need to get the rubber and centre part of the bush out. If the subframe is out of the car, burning it out (outside!) is a easy option but not a great plan in the car. I took a holesaw with the right diameter to just fit in the rubber part of the bush, and then a second hole saw to centre it inside the steel bore of the bush. Thanks to the good people at Sutton tools, both hole saws fit onto the same arbour, like so

You need to put the drill on super slow and stop regularly to let the holesaw cool because the rubber creates massive friction on the saw. Also, you need a good quality drill (potentially corded) to take the punishment, and dig out that handle that you got with the drill but never attached to give yourself leverage against it twisting, this will turn very hard.

About half way (right hand bush), you need to go slowly to prevent the rubber melting. It's a prick of a job.

OK, step 1 done for 1 bush, the rubber centre is out but the steel shell is still in place.

Annoyingly, I realised I didn't take pics of the next step. You have a few choices.

1. If you have a bush pressing kit, you might be able to get the right sized cup to pick up the shell but not the subframe and push it out. The shell is pretty thin so you will need to be careful. It presses out towards the rear

2. If not and your compressor is working and not leaking all it's out out the f**king pressure switch, you might be able to bang the shell out with an air chisel. If you go this way be very careful not to damage the subframe surface because it can gouge pretty quickly.

3. If you feel like a butcher, you could try a recipro saw with a very fine toothed blade

4. I went all old testament on it; disassemble a hacksaw and put the blade through the bush, upside down, then reattach the hacksaw. At the rear it is all shell hanging out of the subframe so you can safely cut through that. From there carefully cut to the front of the shell, judging what is shell and what is subframe.  Once you are finished cutting, get the hacksaw out, grab a cold chisel and from the diff side bang the shell out where the cut is. It might be slow to start but as long as the shell is at least 2/3 cut through this is the best way for minimal subframe damage.

No matter how you did it, clean up any resulting subframe damage with some fine sand paper as any damage will cause havoc when you go to put the new bushes in