Jump to content
SAU Community

Plazmaman Plenum & 72mm Tb

a31rb25

By a31rb25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
Posted (edited)

Has anybody tried fitting an A32/A33 Maxima throttle body (72mm) to a Plazmaman RB25 plenum?

I'm interested to know if this works as $500 for a billet 72mm TB is a joke. I know there's other's available from CPC, OBX etc via the net just want to know if this works first as it could be one of those handy money savers.

Edited by a31rb25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300862-plazmaman-plenum-72mm-tb/
Share on other sites
Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

Posted
Posted
Has anybody tried fitting an A32/A33 Maxima throttle body (72mm) to a Plazmaman RB25 plenum?

I'm interested to know if this works as $500 for a billet 72mm TB is a joke. I know there's other's available from CPC, OBX etc via the net just want to know if this works first as it could be one of those handy money savers.

whats the bolt hole spacing on them? could be another option for the greddy plenum aswell

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
But the Plazmaman throttle bodies look sexy as!

They'd damn well want to as well for the money. Whilst I agree they look good, they're not worth paying for fashion over function. My car is a basic drifter that doesn't need to look good, just needs to work well.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

How big is the std? In the new year with my plenum on i was going to look to mill out a stocker 4-5mm, i think std they may be about 65mm. Was also thinking about trying one of the twin type throttles of the L98/LT1 350 Chev as they are meant to give sharper throttle response, but will have to measure up the flanges.

vemp_0912_03_z%20professional_products_lt1_throttle_body%20gullet.jpg

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stock is 60mm. Plazmaman recommended a 72mm TB, saying that an 80mm or 90mm (50%) increase in size would lose some of the responsiveness.

This may all be a sales pitch from them to sell a part, but if there's merit in what they say then I don't see the harm in trying to find a cheaper alternative that might cost $200 (incl machining an adapter plate) instead of $500.

Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
Hmm interesting, they recommended me the 80mm one for my setup.

Roy, how on earth are you going to make something like that fit?

HAHAHA Just put your cooler piping in the vice and sqaush it to size :) Simple :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • DraftySquash
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...