Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Garrett T04Z, Surge Ported, 0.84 rear.

Location: Brisbane or Yatala (ERD workshop)

Condition: 18 months old. Has done just over 10000kms. Perfect condition - no shaft play, turbo is currently on car. Never seen higher than 25psi.

Price: $1500 firm

Reason for sale: getting a new turbo for track work.

Car was dyno'd at 618hp (sheet attached) @ 25psi with this turbo. I see 1 bar @4100rpm and 24psi by 4500. Turbo is on the car and will remain on until I have a buyer. I will take people for a demo drive if they want. It has a t4 flange and is split pulse. Garrett turbo beanie not included in price, but can source you a new one to suit for approx ~$200

Any questions post or pm me.

post-33895-1261382602_thumb.jpg

post-33895-1261382614_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300962-garrett-t04z-surge-ported-084-rear/
Share on other sites

Note the surge porting was performed 8 months ago by MTQ. Turbo was inspected and serviced in the process - came back with flying colours. Surge porting improves response and extends turbo life. Cost me about $350 to get done.

  • 4 weeks later...

bump - this item is still for sale. Had some interested people, but no one quite ready to buy.

I was originally hoping to be able to take people for test drives, but still waiting on gearbox parts, etc. so this wont be possible as I want to put my new turbo on in the next week or 2 and the car wont be ready to drive before that. Pm me or call on 0400412580.

Cheers

bump. this is a good price for a good turbo. I've had a few pm's asking if the price is negotiable - short answer no. Your looking at well over $2500 to buy this new with the surge porting. a $1k+ saving for an item in perfect condition is a pretty good deal.

bump. this is a good price for a good turbo. I've had a few pm's asking if the price is negotiable - short answer no. Your looking at well over $2500 to buy this new with the surge porting. a $1k+ saving for an item in perfect condition is a pretty good deal.

Hi mate,

whats your opinion on this turbo for track work? i was thinking of something along this line - but some ppl reckon its too laggy?

bump for good price anyway!!

Hi mate,

whats your opinion on this turbo for track work? i was thinking of something along this line - but some ppl reckon its too laggy?

bump for good price anyway!!

It depends on how serious you want to be about the track work I guess. I've found that with medium hard semi slicks (595RS-R's) it can be difficult to maintain a high enough corner speed to keep the turbo in its happy zone (4000pm+). Sometimes you need to go down to 3500 or so and its just a bit doughy down there. But then again, its a turbo that will support a low 10 second pass, annihilate almost everything on the street / at dyno comps, and can still hold its own around a track, particular one with long corners.

My focus for the car is shifting from a tough all-rounder to a more serious track car, so im looking at downsizing the turbo or going back to twins.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...