Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4000rpm/15psi is average for 230rwkw.

Are you sure the actuator on there is solid and holding the gate shut? A few GCG hi-flows suffered from this in the earlu day where the preload was not enough.

its a auto running 15psi?!? what would you expect...

Looks like i might need to upgrade my actuator first and see how i go from their. I didn't get one when i got the hi-flow so if the stock one is only 5psi its probably not enough. I'll take it to chasers and see what they can do.'

Cheers so much for the help guys!

its a auto running 15psi?!? what would you expect...

Power is a bit low, due to the auto which is normal.

loaded up on a dyno - same as a manual, so not 4000rpm for 15psi give the turbo.

much of a muchness when loaded up in regards to response

Another idea, bigger stall converter, not as easy as changing wastegate and wont bring the boost on before 4000rpm but it will get boost easier and make the car faster.

Nitrous Oxide! it will bring it on REAL quick!

3lt bottom end will too.

Port work and cams

Higher static CR

Better bottomend/off boost tuning

Cam gear adjustment

Ball bearing core and billet comp wheel

Methanol and a bunch of timing

Wire the wastegate shut

Bigger/better dump pipe and exhaust set up

Heavier right foot

Get a bigger actuator before you get an EBC.

OR

Live with it... you have to sacrifice somthing for more power.

Honestly I loved every single one of your ideas except for the live with it one :D I agree just get yourself a bigger actuator, say 14 or 16 psi and forget the dam boost controller for now. EBC is always better than manual boost controller :) It has lights and buttons :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...