Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok Planning to upgrade from stock snail to a larger shell, just checking i have what i will need to go ahead with it all

baisically i have all the usual mods

pod

FMIC

zaust

HD clutch

SAFC (not in or tuned)

planning to upgrade to a Garrett 3076R

will be getting:

the turbo

exhaust manifold

38mm external gate

new dump and front pipe 3"

injectors ( some info needed what size should i get?)

044 fuel pump (enough?)

tune

coilpacks

Will be getting it tuned at hyperdrive, and depending on the cost possibly installed as i dont have the know how

anyway hoping to push 400 just to make it then probably run 360-380 is that reasonable with these mods? or am i aiming for the stars with a bow and arrow?

any advice is appreciated

if there is anything else i will need please let me know as i dont want to find out i have missed something when i go to get it done

also what boost can i push safely through this turbo and my 25det?

cheers again

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301009-turbo-upgrade-do-i-have-everything/
Share on other sites

1) 400 to make it and then 360-380... rwHP yes this is accurate. rwKW your aiming for the stars with a bow and arrow :(

Since you didnt mention forged internals ill assume youre talking stock bottom end and horsepower not kilowatts; correct me if im wrong.

If you are talking horsepower then your setup is similar to my car (at tuners as i type this..)

Disclaimer: anyone please correct me if im wrong, and please get more than just my lowly opinion, but this is my 2c.

==>Stock bottom end and a 3076R, depends on what housing is on the turbo but 18psi is a good safe limit (and should see the numbers you want with boost around 3500rpm..)

==> Injectors youll be looking at Nismo 555s, Sard 550s or the like.

==> Bosch 044 will be more than enough from what ive read. and again correct me if im wrong here readers but 044 are mounted externally and are a decent chunk more expensive than an in tank replacement style pump. I think for 400rwhp a tomei in-tank would probably be enough and cheaper.

I have not looked into highflow turbo's alot but this impressed me, but a local dude down here in Mandurah got his high flowed from Hypertune with the usual supportings mods and similer to what you suggested and have and did 360hp@17pound with a .86 rear worked really great direct fit and cost just over $1,000. It also goes very quick and completed a 12.6@114mph. Compared to my other friends running the 3076 the high flowed was much quicker and came on much earlier, however the 3076 did 330~hp at like 12 psi so had potentially to make great power.

Dyno,

PC140233.jpg

PB020202.jpg

Prior I thought highflows just made a solid 300 with some more torque.

Edited by monga

SAFC is just fuel and not ignition, correct me if I'm wrong. Often these bigger turbo's need timing to bring them on which the SAFC cannot do. Also, cash difference between the two is only $500 these days.

Edited by monga

How far off will the ignition timing be? Nothing he can't adjust himself and fix in a tune...then again if you're going to pay someone else to tune it, you'd might as well let them shaft you another grand or two for a full ECU, so yeah, fair enough :(

I'm don't know alot about the amount of timing that is required for certain load points to bring these turbo's on but it's going to be a reasonable difference from the factory stock turbo, same with the fuel adjustment. It's not possibly to adjust that without purchasing a APFC with the SAFC so unfortunately he will have to upgrade or performance might suffer. In terms of the financials you can sell the SAFC are a reasonable used price ($200+?) spend the extra on the APC, around $2000 now for the RB25DET. Alternatively you use the VIPEC or HALTECH which offer good value products. When it comes to tuning it APFC or other units often are around $500 now, SAFC are around $100 or $200 so it is a small difference in considerion for the cash spend on this upgrade. The term shaft is rather harsh, most of the workshop's in Perth are great and you pay for a premium service that your general mechanic cannot do, also been a business they have overheads so paying alittle extra for parts is often acceptable.

Edited by monga

That Hi Flo turbo looks like shit :(

  Nic_A31 said:
then again if you're going to pay someone else to tune it, you'd might as well let them shaft you another grand or two for a full ECU, so yeah, fair enough ;)

;)

you wont reach your goal with the standard ecu and a safc. best options would be nistune, vipec, power fc etc.

make sure when you make up your dump pipe you do it properly first time, i'm having to redo myne atm because its too restrictive.

if you want intank then a 023 is the intank equivalent of a 044. 040 doesnt flow as much

safety all depends on the tune, andy at hyperdrive tunes very conservatively, safer than most at the sacrifice of a few hp, if you have a boost controller then just let him set it to whatever ends up being safe, probably around 18psi

as for installing stuff, give it a go yourself, its not as hard as it looks and it saves you a hell of a lot of money. if you get stuck theres always plenty of help on here, just make sure you have another car to drive in the meantime

one other thing, make sure when you do get a turbo you get the right one, especially if its a gt30, lots of mismatched ones out there. theres plenty of info on here about which ones to get and which to stay away from

Stock internals, gearbox and diff are good for 500 rear-wheel horsepower. My brother's R33 GTS-t was making a smidge under 500rwhp.

All it had was GT35R, 800cc injectors, coilpacks, HKS cams & exhaust manifold, ext gate, custom exh system, custom intake manifold, XF falcon throttle body, custom FMIC, Power FC and maybe some other things, i forget, was a few years ago.

That was running 22psi and in 12months of daily thrashing it never ever broke :(

RB25's, RB25 boxes and diff's are bulletproof unlees you want to go mega HP.

You need a bigger wastegate - the less boost you run the bigger the wastegate...

you only need coilpacks if ur's r no good... mine are standard...

Have you thought of a forward facing plenum - shorten the pipe run for less lag...

And defiantly a standalone ECU

Edited by axe s
  DR1FT4 said:
will be getting:

the turbo

exhaust manifold

38mm external gate

new dump and front pipe 3"

injectors ( some info needed what size should i get?)

044 fuel pump (enough?)

tune

coilpacks

You need a custom intake as well as a custom dump pipe (Garrett use different exhaust housing than factory or aftermarket dump pipes, so it wont fit). You didn't list boost controller? Your probably better off buying the kit if your going to give the install a shot yourself.

I would go for 740cc injectors. Dont go high mount man... Go low mount internally gated.

Edited by Dani Boi
  Nic_A31 said:
How far off will the ignition timing be? Nothing he can't adjust himself and fix in a tune...then again if you're going to pay someone else to tune it, you'd might as well let them shaft you another grand or two for a full ECU, so yeah, fair enough :)

:cheers::santa::) :) :blink: :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
    • Careful with posts like that around here without the flame suit on @cobo_11! 😂😂 My 330i journal is on here too. That car was so good and super reliable. We still have a 130i in the family which is almost identical to the 330i and easier to find in manual. It has also been almost faultless over the 6 or so years in the family.  I used to want an M car a lot more than I do now but if I'm honest and without trying to sound like a wanker, I can get such good performance and handling out of my 335 without needing to worry about all the crap that goes along with M car ownership. I don't need to worry about my bearings or subframe issues or the cost of replacing brakes or suspension or whether it has been impeccably maintained. And I can leave it places and not get upset when it's always filthy.
×
×
  • Create New...