Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know that some places in Japan ask if you want the dash wound back before they send the car back.

"Ok we're sending the car to be shipped tomorrow...how many km did you want it to have?" :blink:

I use to laugh alot seeing these beaten to shit Z32's coming into work with 30,000 to 60,000 on the clock and on the timing cover there are stickers saying timing belt has been changed at 100,xxx km and 200,xxx km! Yet the owners seem to still swear that the dashboard is correct. :laugh:

I know that some places in Japan ask if you want the dash wound back before they send the car back.

"Ok we're sending the car to be shipped tomorrow...how many km did you want it to have?" :blush:

I use to laugh alot seeing these beaten to shit Z32's coming into work with 30,000 to 60,000 on the clock and on the timing cover there are stickers saying timing belt has been changed at 100,xxx km and 200,xxx km! Yet the owners seem to still swear that the dashboard is correct. :)

LOL ... Now that's really crap and Dealers here get to sell these "Low K's" imports at Premium Prices ...

What a "Bargain" we are all getting from Dealers ...

I used to play Manila Poker many yrs ago with fellow Chinese Uni. students.

It's a kind of game that allows plenty of scope to bluff > can make or lose a motza.

Some Aussie guys joined in for a couple of months.

One of them came up to me and said, "Do you think you could help me sell my car?"

I said, "Why?"

He said, "'Cause you can lie with a perfectly straight face."

Footnote:- I don't know to this day, whether it was a compliment or an insult!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

I've always found it somewhat humorous that Japanese built cars can have the odo wound back so much and still have less problems/be in better overall condition than a locally built car at a similar amount of kays (on a genuine odo).

Even with the whole odo tampering thing being ever present I'd still be more inclined to trust a decent condish import with 150thou+ than a local offering showing the same.

Edited by AndrewJZX100

good point

ive been scanning some of the japanese auto auctions, and so many skylines both gtst and gtr's have more then 120,000kms on the clock, its soo funny how some people believe the "60k" showing

my mate was looking at r33 gtst's last year, i told him il sell him mine, had a good look at it, couldnt fault it, but didnt like the 140 or so Kms on it

he ended up buying a clapped out 96 model with 70k showing on the dash, and enough steering wheel, leaher boot wear to indicate the cars done well over 150. compression test showed that also haha

it can fool some people though...:S

I've always found it somewhat humorous that Japanese built cars can have the odo wound back so much and still have less problems/be in better overall condition than a locally built car at a similar amount of kays (on a genuine odo).

Even with the whole odo tampering thing being ever present I'd still be more inclined to trust a decent condish import with 150thou+ than a local offering showing the same.

Correct me if im wrong, helped a mate change his timing belt on a 2000 model stagea at 85k and there was an aftermarket timing belt fitted and water pump. Leads me to believe that the vehicle had already had its 100,000km service.

in the market now 4 a gtr 34 vspec

just checked 1 out the other day 34gtr vpec km under 40k

was bought from a importer , which many people would no on her as being a bit dodgy .

anyways the car was immac , went 2 have a quick look under the car , found a massive amount of rust , bog work , clutch had been replaced at least twice , leakin front drive shaft , rust that has been plated and bogged up roughly , the whole undercarriage had been sprayed black 2 hide all the shitt .

good thing i did the inspection , i think every 1 should have the car throughly inspected 2 save the gremlins from appearing when they buy it .

Even if you cant tell whether the odometer has been wound back, you can generally tell if the cluster has been tampered with.

People generally rip out the cluter for these reasons.

- rice it up with carbon/chrome surrounds and garnish

- upgrade it to a Nismo unit

- plug a console in to change the numbers

When you take out a cluster, look at the screws and screw holes. Have they been removed before? Once you remove all the screws, pull out the cluster and take a good look at the clips that connect the loom to back of the cluster. These are very tight and needs a flathead screwdriver to separate it. If the clips looks mangled up, you know someone has pulled out the cluster in the past.

Often as not businesses/individuals buy the car at auction and specify what kms it should have when it arrives out here. I can't cite a link or recorded conversation or anything but it is what can and does happen.

After all, the inspecting mechanics who are engaged by many importers really do know the cars inside and out...

Never read the odo, always read the car.

Ive had 2 r34 gtt's now with dash cluster faults caused buy the odometer being wound back. the cluster is electronic and has its own computer as such and the 2 i have worked on have been tampered with visually.

the dash boards had been tampered with some 6-12 months before a problem accoured. the first one i did had been through the nissan dealer ship and they were unable to fix it and after some time i worked out the dash to be causing a running issue with the car. sent the dash off to be repaired and it was completely stuffed because of what had been done to it. i sourced and fitted a second hand cluster and the bloke was funny about doing that because the Kms read 20k more. i was like well your old dash wasnt right either.

the second time around was causing different faults with the car and the dash was able to be repaired.

A friends 300zx had the odometer tampered with and it was broken. he brought it with 99.000km on the clock and after 1000 more kms he found that it went back to 99.000kms. he just left it like that and probably did 50.000 more kms then on sold it.

its funny how people care more about how low the kms are and not the fact that the under side of the car has been painted flat black to hide all the rust ect.

  • 2 months later...
the numbers sometimes dont all line up correctly if they have been wound back.

I've heard this too and always thought that to be the case. But it's not always so. Sometimes the numbers don't line up so good and the miles are genuine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
    • Your profile doesn't say where you are, but you can get your current turbo rebuilt by any competent turbo shop, places like Precision Turbos or GCG They can replace the core with a modern ball bearing unit and should be able to source same or slightly larger wheels to fit in you housing. Note if you change the core you may need new oil and water lines too
×
×
  • Create New...