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Changed the clutch in my r32 gtr last week. I also changed all the fluid while I was under it.

All went well, except when I tried to bleed the attesa. Turned the key on, disconnect the wire behind the kick panel, open bleed nipple. And the pump doesn't start.

I have an "Extreme TSC", would that cause a problem?

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So you have disconnected the wire in the kick panel before you turn the key to on yeah?

You also have the fluid topped up in the Attessa reservoir, and have bled it from the bleed nipple on the 4wd pump on top of the rear diff first?

Also make sure you have your 4wd fuse in place in the fuse box under the bonnet, and check if there are any error codes flashing on the 4wd computer in the boot bolted to the bottom of the parcel shelf.

I didnt need the motor running recently when I bled the Attessa but maybe give it a shot.

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I am going to do the exact same thing today (I hope) will let you know how it goes. It is on a R33 GTR though.

Anyone know where the bleed nipple is, (if there is one) on an A-LSD, I did not pay any attention when I put the diff back :wub:

EDIT: just found the bleed nipple... woot woot

Edited by bigmikespec
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Changed the clutch in my r32 gtr last week. I also changed all the fluid while I was under it.

All went well, except when I tried to bleed the attesa. Turned the key on, disconnect the wire behind the kick panel, open bleed nipple. And the pump doesn't start.

I have an "Extreme TSC", would that cause a problem?

Hmm, not sure if its different to R33's but what's this disconnect the wire?

Are you following the tutorial in the tutorial's section?

I undid the bleed nipple, turned on the ignition, the pump would start, then turn it off after a few seconds, then repeat, that way the pump didn't get too hot...

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Well just bled the whole system from the pump, rear diff. then the transfer case. Not too sure if it is all good, seemed a bit too easy. Each time the bleed nipple is backed off fluid drips out... seems ok to me?

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Well just bled the whole system from the pump, rear diff. then the transfer case. Not too sure if it is all good, seemed a bit too easy. Each time the bleed nipple is backed off fluid drips out... seems ok to me?

Are you hanging some clear tubing off the bleed nipples when bleeding? You need to do it until no bubbles come out, start at the one on the rear diff, and then once that has no bubbles do the front one.

You should then also only have 5mm maximum worth of air in the lower section of the reservoir.

Procedure for R32 is:

1. Fill reservoir with nissan matic-D special blend trans fluid, 30mm above the max line

2. Open the air bleeder in hyralic unit above rear diff and remove all air in suction pipe until no bubbles coming out

3. Turn ignition ON

4. Remove the air bleeder connector in drivers side kick panel - its a white plug, just undo it

5. Open and close the air bleeder on back of the transfer case (near gearbox) 1 sec at a time to bleed air from the system, do this until no more bubbles are coming out

6. Connect air bleeder connector intermittentlly to bleed air from the reservoir tank return side (lower bit) .After bleeding complete, max air level height in lower section of reservoir is 5mm.

7. Turn igntion switch ON before adjusting oil level - connect air bleeeder connector, fill or drain reservoir tank so oil volume in top side is at MAX line

8. Turn ignition OFF - should now be complete.

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Are you hanging some clear tubing off the bleed nipples when bleeding? You need to do it until no bubbles come out, start at the one on the rear diff, and then once that has no bubbles do the front one.

Ahhhh... need to check that there are no bubbles, I thought that was just so that you didnt make a mess :wub:

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thanks bud, will come in handy when doing mine shortly, is nissan matic-D readily available from dealer or can it substituted with another brand?

Are you hanging some clear tubing off the bleed nipples when bleeding? You need to do it until no bubbles come out, start at the one on the rear diff, and then once that has no bubbles do the front one.

You should then also only have 5mm maximum worth of air in the lower section of the reservoir.

Procedure for R32 is:

1. Fill reservoir with nissan matic-D special blend trans fluid, 30mm above the max line

2. Open the air bleeder in hyralic unit above rear diff and remove all air in suction pipe until no bubbles coming out

3. Turn ignition ON

4. Remove the air bleeder connector in drivers side kick panel - its a white plug, just undo it

5. Open and close the air bleeder on back of the transfer case (near gearbox) 1 sec at a time to bleed air from the system, do this until no more bubbles are coming out

6. Connect air bleeder connector intermittentlly to bleed air from the reservoir tank return side (lower bit) .After bleeding complete, max air level height in lower section of reservoir is 5mm.

7. Turn igntion switch ON before adjusting oil level - connect air bleeeder connector, fill or drain reservoir tank so oil volume in top side is at MAX line

8. Turn ignition OFF - should now be complete.

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thanks bud, will come in handy when doing mine shortly, is nissan matic-D readily available from dealer or can it substituted with another brand?

Easily available, picked up 5L last week from my local Nissan dealer!

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  • 5 years later...

Which hose is the suction pipe? I had my diff and cradle out the other day and had to disconnect both rubber hoses. I cracked the bleed nipple on the pump but nothing came out. Anyone know how to get it started or was I just being impatient? Really like to get the attessa system bled so I can give a couple awd launches a crack.

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Which hose is the suction pipe? I had my diff and cradle out the other day and had to disconnect both rubber hoses. I cracked the bleed nipple on the pump but nothing came out. Anyone know how to get it started or was I just being impatient? Really like to get the attessa system bled so I can give a couple awd launches a crack.

Did you have the engine running at the same time?

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