Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pressure Low After Installation Of Components

Taso84

By Taso84,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there,

Normally for a problem like this, i'd goto my mechanic, but with Xmas break and all, thats gonna be a bit difficult, so hoping some1 can help me with this.

To cut a long story short, I've just replaced the oil filter housing piece on my rb25DET. After screwing it all in, putting the oil pressure sender back on, refilling the oil, took it for a test drive and everything was a-ok.

Then today, I started it and noticed the oil pressure gauge sitting on 0 and the oil warning light on. Checked undeaneath the car, no leaks, checks the oil level which was fine and engine also sounds fine.

So im thinking the oil pressure sensor clip has come loose, so i take it for a small drive. To my horror, the oil pressure starts moving up VERY slowly, ie doesnt make it to 2kpa.

Now i know low oil pressure can be a sign of engine failure or a failed pump but im thinking its too much of a coincedence that Ive just changed the oil filter housing. My first thoughts are that something is blocking or interfering with the oil pressure sender. Was wondering what other ppl think it might be, Thanks.

Also FYI, I installed a new adapter onto the housing that lets me put 2 senders in it, and installed a oil temp sender in the other hole - its a gold t-pies looking thing.

Also the new housing I installed was 2nd hand, I gave it a quick clean with the cloth but im worried that there might have been some large piece of gunk inside it that I couldnt see and is now blocking oil access to the sender.

Edited by Taso84
StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

check the wiring on the sender, sounds like it could be a poor connection on something, i had a similar issue with my ground wire before i ground off the paint off the chassis to make a better contact.

low oil pressure causes serious damage, very quickly, so if the motor's still strong after 5 or so mins of running, you can rule out oil system failure i reckon...

Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

should still make its way into the engine, the only way out is to the main gallery,

if you can open the oil cap while its running and see if there is oil splashing around in there, if not then its a problem.

so, you replaced the oil filter/cooler assembly? why?

no aftermarket oil cooler with hoses? do you now have a remote oil filter? if the hoses are mixed up that can trick the sensor.

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
did you renew the oring on the housing shaft?

my guess is its either faulty or missing.

my thought too, if the old one was off for awhile it could be perished or missing.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Well obviously you dont understand the fact that oil pressure is crucial for the survival of the engine.

Just fix it and be done with it, or take it to someone who can!

You can drive it if you like but chances are you wont get very far.

Rezlo Community Regular

Rezlo

Posted
Posted

RB25's hydro lifters would sound like 24 rocks in a tin can if they were not getting decent oil press,

Good chance you botched the install but as per most of the people here, rather get it sorted asap preferably by a pro, oil problems and engines = expencive.

Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted
If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

It's been a while since i dug up in the 25 but isnt the oil pressure sender and the oil light unit that big round gold colored two pin thing by the oil filter?!?

If so if it has been damaged somehow when changing out the housing that will probably explain why the two readings went wacko at once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 gtr hood latch support/lock part number search

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • Watermouse
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Watermouse · Posted

      GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • PranK
      Happy New Year!

      By PranK · Posted

      Happy new year!
    • eli995
      R32 gtr hood latch support/lock part number search

      By eli995 · Posted

      Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...