Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo Dash Not Working Properly

levizzle

By levizzle,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
Posted

I have a 260km nismo dash for my R32. Only problem is tacho doesnt work, other gauges seem to work ok. Looking at the circuit on the back, the plug behind the tacho doesnt seem to copy the same positions as the the standard dash circuit.

Does anyone know if there are different series of nismo dash depending on the year of the car, my car is from 89-90 so is the nismo dash for a later model r32?

Could I swap the gauge assemblies for each gauge out of the nismo set and put them inside the casing of the standard one, or would this not work out since the speedo may have a different mechanism to get to 260km?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301377-nismo-dash-not-working-properly/
Share on other sites
levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually now that I think about, cant you buy the nismo gauges as just the assemblies without the casing and then you put it in your standard gauge casing. If this is true then would be able to swap just the assemblies. Has anyone done this or know how to do it? Does anyone know what I am going on about?

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

Look on the back of each cluster.. You should see a marking near one of the connector holes with TAM written..

On the old one I reckon it is on the left side connector (if you are looking at the circuit board) 3rd pin from the top on the rhs.. On the new one it may be middle connector 4th pin from the top lhs. Just chase the pin back and make sure it is in the right place. This is only what I had to do on my car.. gtst may be different.

This was the case with my '89 gts4 cluster replaced with a later gtr cluster. There were also a number of other things wrong as well, check all the idiot lights are working, indicator lights are correct, hicas still works etc.. I had to change quite a few pins over.

Edited by heller44
levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Look on the back of each cluster.. You should see a marking near one of the connector holes with TAM written..

On the old one I reckon it is on the left side connector (if you are looking at the circuit board) 3rd pin from the top on the rhs.. On the new one it may be middle connector 4th pin from the top lhs. Just chase the pin back and make sure it is in the right place. This is only what I had to do on my car.. gtst may be different.

This was the case with my '89 gts4 cluster replaced with a later gtr cluster. There were also a number of other things wrong as well, check all the idiot lights are working, indicator lights are correct, hicas still works etc.. I had to change quite a few pins over.

Yeah I see TAM on the old one, and TM on the nismo one but it is one pin lower. Looking at the other plugs the middle plug seems to have a few differences too.

How do u change the pin positions?

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

If you look at the connector, there is like a latch that holds the row of contacts in the housing.. unclip it and you can remove the pin and transfer the location. I'm going from memory here as it was a couple of years ago.. obvious when you have good look at it.

What is the original location for on the other dash? make sure that you aren't going to short anything out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Wont start unless i have the pedal to the floor

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look to cold enrichment then?
    • GTSBoy
      R34 RB20DE NEO + T ONLY

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Sxnjeet
      R34 RB20DE NEO + T ONLY

      By Sxnjeet · Posted

      Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • Sxnjeet
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Sxnjeet · Posted

      interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...