Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright so for the most of you living in sydney, you know it was raining all day today....well i was going in a roundabout and the car understeer(i was going about 40km/h) and because of this, my car locked up and i hit the gutter with my left front tyre. After having a look at it, i can see the tinrod(the bottom metal bar in the inside of your wheel) is snapped and the whole rim shifted back and is touching the guard, so basically, the tyre is not being pulled foward!!!when i drive it and turn left even slight, the tyre hits the guard and it makes a 'rubbing' sound.

i was wondering if this is a major problem and if it will set me back alot (the car is a 93 r32 gts(non turbo)) and if the parts are hard to get and where i can get it from in sydney.

thanks

Edited by IM-32-FK

if it is simply the tie rod or steering arm being damaged just buy a new one, install it then take it to get a wheel alignment (or get it installed by the place doing the wheel alignment.

i think you would be best of taking to a steering place and letting them do it so that they can check it all over and make sure nothing else is damaged

same as Mad082 take it to a steering place worse off you could have bent the subframe a lil, the steering mob will find that out and can put it on a jig to straighten it, hope it is only the tie rod and nothing else if so easy to replace and get a wheel alignment after it done.

same as Mad082 take it to a steering place worse off you could have bent the subframe a lil, the steering mob will find that out and can put it on a jig to straighten it, hope it is only the tie rod and nothing else if so easy to replace and get a wheel alignment after it done.

i had a look at it today and i can see the tie arm is snapped and the lower chamber arm is a bit bent...the tie rod seems fine...i also noticed the shock wasnt 100% straight too :D

honestly, how the hell am i going to take it to a wheel shop when i can bearly drive it...

just get a tow man, racq do them free for the first 10km or something, and then its pretty reasonable after that :D

thats what i did when i snapped my rear control arm in the 32

just get a tow man, racq do them free for the first 10km or something, and then its pretty reasonable after that :D

thats what i did when i snapped my rear control arm in the 32

racq? so a company will prodly tow your car for free for the first 10km even though u never did any business with them?whats the catch?

racq? so a company will prodly tow your car for free for the first 10km even though u never did any business with them?whats the catch?

sorry bro i just realised you live in nsw - im pretty sure racq is just qld

basically u pay $50 a year and you get 24/7 roadside assistance, whether it be for a flat battery or whatever

but yeh you can get unlimited tows (provided you have reason) and the first 10km are free

last year i got 4 tows in total, 1 lower control arm, 1 for thermostat going, 1 for radiator going, 1 for cooler piping f**king up

well worth $50 :D

to take a hit like that you have to be fair hooking.. i know, because ive done the same.. slightly damp day.. wierd off camber right hander.. bald rear tyres, front tyres down on pressure, came in too fast, and in to the gutter she went. i used ratchet straps to pull the front wheel forwards enough to drive it on the trailer. have a good look at your tie rod as they bend with a slight touch. also the end of your crossmember can bend easily... it is all designed to snap and crumble like this so it doesnt transfer the shock to the chassis... bent chassis = wrecked car.

the parts are out there... you just have to be on the lookout. if you need it going asap its going to be expensive though.

you were going faster than 40km/h... at 40km you wouldnt do that much damage.. 60km/hr maybe.

i had a look at it today and i can see the tie arm is snapped and the lower chamber arm is a bit bent...the tie rod seems fine...i also noticed the shock wasnt 100% straight too :D

honestly, how the hell am i going to take it to a wheel shop when i can bearly drive it...

find replacement parts, is time consuming but a piece of cake.

lower LCA for passenger side

stock shock for passenger side - if there stock

Passenger side tie rod.

if you were in qld i could of helped you out with all of it.

Best of luck man its quite easy to find this gear. Troll the parts for sale section in NSW or the main section.

to take a hit like that you have to be fair hooking.. i know, because ive done the same.. slightly damp day.. wierd off camber right hander.. bald rear tyres, front tyres down on pressure, came in too fast, and in to the gutter she went. i used ratchet straps to pull the front wheel forwards enough to drive it on the trailer. have a good look at your tie rod as they bend with a slight touch. also the end of your crossmember can bend easily... it is all designed to snap and crumble like this so it doesnt transfer the shock to the chassis... bent chassis = wrecked car.

the parts are out there... you just have to be on the lookout. if you need it going asap its going to be expensive though.

you were going faster than 40km/h... at 40km you wouldnt do that much damage.. 60km/hr maybe.

does it matter what speed he was doing? lets give him a hand and help him out.

mate ill have a look here what i got, weight it and give you an approx on price / post for above parts i listed. drop me a pm with a post code.

dave

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
×
×
  • Create New...