Jump to content
SAU Community

F\s Show 93 S2 Gtst Mspec R32. 19s Cream Leather


Recommended Posts

s2 gtst mspec r32

turbo

full exhaust sounds very nice

5 speed

pearl orange red

cream leather interior

bov

side mount intercooler

heavy duty clutch

springs

dvd

alpine s

boost gauge

oil,

volts,

air fuel gauges

new 20s

new tyres

165kms

sunroof

electric windows

racing leather wheel

very very clean

.

$13,500. ono

swaps 14g 0430 828859

post-68974-1261804513_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1261804537_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1261805189_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1261805209_thumb.jpg

Edited by katurbo
6k bring ur own wheels and seats..

and ur girlfriend . and its yours..

untill then gl finding a cleaner , meaner, mspec r32..

right.

explain how it's mean?

and explain how white leather STOCK SEATS make's it worth more?

is it actually leather retrim or is it the leatherette seat covers what you can buy?

correct me is I'm wrong, but what you have there is

a stock R32 gtst with a respray, re trimmed seats (maybe), lowered springs (stock shocks), and an exhaust.

All with 165,000kms.

basically, it's a stocker with high km's.

I'm sure your wheels are worth a bit (to you) so a stock R32 with no wheels, $6K is plenty.

if you want to keep your leatherette seat covers, I'm more than happy to bring my own seats.

right.

explain how it's mean?

and explain how white leather STOCK SEATS make's it worth more?

is it actually leather retrim or is it the leatherette seat covers what you can buy?

correct me is I'm wrong, but what you have there is

a stock R32 gtst with a respray, re trimmed seats (maybe), lowered springs (stock shocks), and an exhaust.

All with 165,000kms.

basically, it's a stocker with high km's.

I'm sure your wheels are worth a bit (to you) so a stock R32 with no wheels, $6K is plenty.

if you want to keep your leatherette seat covers, I'm more than happy to bring my own seats.

you dont have to buy it, nothing worth postin dont post. :thumbsup:

not seat covers at all

.

as i said bring own seats and wheels and your girlfreind its yours for 6k...

untill then dont waste my time.

coils

paint

real leather..

wheels

cost me 11g.. aint really stock

not adding

heavy duty clutch

r33 box

exhaust

bov, all gauges

ect....

its immaculate not a scratch

Edited by katurbo

sweet.

what is the part number on the R33 box so I can confirm it is an R33 one.

did you have to change the R32 tail shaft to fit the R33 box?

when you say "coils" do you mean aftermarket coilovers? or are you refering to lowered springs? or do you mean the coil packs?

Where should I bring, seats, wheels and girlfriend and $6K to to buy your car?

Also, was the engine bay and door jams painted?

any engine bay pics? My girlfriend wants to make sure that it's worth being traded for.

Edited by GTST
any engine bay pics?

just search his 11tybillion sale threads... that go nowhere. strange he never sells anything.

good luck on your quest.

as peter chow says.

1. make sandwich

2. suck dick on command

3. not talk so much

if she don't meet all 3 id trade.

LOL :D

post-a260826-IMG-0086.JPG



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok will do, I think I originally had 1 bolt off for the sway bar on when I took off the strut but will give this a ago. Thanks Duncan! My sway bar has play also when I move it around, hoping that's the source of my squeaking because I can't find anything wrong elsewhere
    • odd. I thought all the top race teams used them.
    • undo the sway bar link, put it on last. put a jack under the outer ball joint on the lower control arm to raise the hub and off you go
    • I don't know how this is even possible. I removed the strut to do some work (it came out fine, and keeping in mind that I didn't put things back in the same order, but did this on purpose because I was supposed to remove the strut originally instead I tried to remove other shit first which made things a head ache) but now the problem is that it won't go back in. The alignment between where the bolt hole for the strut is and the j arm where the strut slides onto is way off, about a 10cm difference or more. In order to make it fit I'd somehow need to push it up. I tried to compress it with a spring compressor and install it but the compressor was getting in the way and there was no working room. On the photo you can see the difference between the shock and the thread that it's supposed to go on. The only things I removed in total were - the top bolts for the j arm but I didn't remove the actual j arm - the 3 bolts that hold the plate for the brake lines - the sway bar link (this bolted on back fine) - the strut/shock absorber
    • LOL that sounds pretty conclusive! Yeah if it doesn't work on a tight nut, it doesn't work.
×
×
  • Create New...