Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I have some trouble with my autobox in the stag (S1 RS4 V). When i get above ~140km/h it feels like it start slippering in the box and don't put the power to the ground. The slippering seams to increase with increased speed. It hardly wants to get to the speedlimit at 180.

1st & 2nd is no problem at all and it get all 4 tires ti spin some meters, but something feels wrong in the the higher section of the gearbox. I have tried with and without O/D and no change.

Have anyone had this problem and how do i solve it? (Don't want to disassemble the box if i can avoid it.)

We tried to break a world record and I'm not happy that the car got power left but don't get the speed. "Only" 170km/h with a snowracer behind... :)

(But i like the sound...)

Edited by sirmiro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301492-gearbox-problems/
Share on other sites

check the level of the fluid it has a dip stick . and it is possible gear box is not warm enough . have heard of them not even going into 4th untill the ehgine ang gearbox is hot enough

and that video is f**kin nuts . we got up to 70 with 3 plastic $3 tobogans on 3 different ropes behind same vehicle once

Edited by lachlanw

you may wanna think about making a cover for the front of the radiator to help the engine getting up to temp

your trans oil passes through the radiator to help keep it at a constant temp and it is possible that its not getting warm enough

i was watching a program (ice road truckers) and they had trucks running in temps a bit colder than yours and some had most of the front grill blocked off to prevent overcooling i presume

yeah because thinking about it the auto trans cooler/warmer is in the bottom(cold) tank of the radiator and at those speeds and temperatures the bottom tank is probabaly cooling the auto oil way cooler than it should be

I thought Turnips were crazy, but Sweedes are f**king awsome. And I've been there.

But yeah! on the tranny "cooler". Initially the radiator is used to warm up the oil to get the gearbox up to temp. If you are towing etc, a cooler is used to keep the temperature getting too high.

Thanx so much. Haven't thought that it can be to cold.

Which temperature is recommended for the transmission? I need to mount a gauge for it just to have control, but it's no idea if i don't know where it shall be.

Temperature is changing between 0 and -20 degrees C. We just need to be crazy so we don't freeze to death. :D

Thanx so much. Haven't thought that it can be to cold.

Which temperature is recommended for the transmission? I need to mount a gauge for it just to have control, but it's no idea if i don't know where it shall be.

Temperature is changing between 0 and -20 degrees C. We just need to be crazy so we don't freeze to death. :D

Auto trans fluid need to be a little less than engine temp- say between 80 deg C and 100C. You could consider some sort of radiator blind like trucks have so that you can cover part or all of the radiator core.
Thanx so much. Haven't thought that it can be to cold.

Which temperature is recommended for the transmission? I need to mount a gauge for it just to have control, but it's no idea if i don't know where it shall be.

Temperature is changing between 0 and -20 degrees C. We just need to be crazy so we don't freeze to death. :D

Hi Trans temp should be around 100 to 110 Degrees so maybe look at a few thing`s,

look at if you really need a TRAN`S COOLER ??,as it`s going in to rad,look at your Thremostat & what temp it is,mine come with 82 degrees C so you will need to get ENGINE TEMP UP may need to block most of the air flow ,as we did when in UK IN WINTER & TRANS is very temp sensitive ,good luck cheer`s Chuckie,

Thank you again!

You in here saves me over and over again. :D So wonderful to have a place with all the knowledge as in here.

I'll start to mount a tempgauge to be able to check it. :) Then i'll think about changes. I've got the intercooler in front of the oilcooler so i'll guess it rises the temp a degree or two. ;)

Need to get a sensor asap. :D

(And I'll get the enginetemp to the right level in about 2min.)

Edited by sirmiro
Bet you gave the oncoming traffic a fright!

We had to abort because of them, and they started to flash the headlights like they were some kind o polices. Unfortunatly we didn't get the real police on camera. They were very suspicious when they saw us just before attempt one. :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
    • Glad it eventually came out Duncan!   I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 
    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/ A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2. Richard Hicks 3. Warren Clark 4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
×
×
  • Create New...