Jump to content
SAU Community

Great Ocean Road

stoks1

By stoks1,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stoks1 Apprentice

stoks1

Posted
Posted

well my series 1 stag started to have problems just as i was passing through warnnambool, started losing power at about 3000 revs. I made it to a campsite i had planned to stay at in peterborough, however now it wont start without banging under the fuel tank, and shortly dies thereafter. So im stuck here untill tuesday with my only hope being to tow to warnnambool to get it done. Does anyone know the part number for the fuel pump or what local cars share the same one? Also would my best hope be trying the nissan dealer in warnnambool, or any other suggestions? Anyone live around this area? Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Almost any nissan pump or at least any skyline pump should get you home if you can get a second hand one cheap. If you can wait you can get one from here:

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/walbr...mp/prod_80.html

which is a new intank Walbro with a nissan fitting kit for NZ$165 which should work out to about the same in aussie dollars with postage. Of course if you can get one where you are it will be worth paying a bit more just to keep you on the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

Yeah pretty easy to change too, now that I've been through that... but good idea to a) disconnect the battery b) have very little fuel in the tank (like 1/4) c) have a big fire extinguisher onhand with someone ready to operate it and d) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY

...so yeah if you're comfortable kneeling in the back of your wagon with your arms up to your elbows in a fuel well then you can change it yourself. Pump size is 38mm diameter x 90mm length. That's a match with the standard pump's diameter and as near as makes no difference a match for the standard pump's length. The stock FPR should handle the increased flow rate just fine; at least well enough to drive back to a tuner carefully :wub: Most difficult part of fitting an aftermarket pump like the Walbro (which fits easy) in my opinion is changing the electrical connector to fit (although it MIGHT use the same one as stock - can anyone confirm this?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
-RBD2- Mentor

-RBD2-

Posted
Posted

i had the power wire come loose of my fuel pump (040) after going thro a rather large pot hole and i pulled it out,rewired it and re-assembled it on the side of the road, at 1am in the morning with a hyundai excels headlights on.wasnt very fun.then a week later the fuel pump fried itself.

its not a hard job,once you've done it

pretty sure my stock connectors were the right size for the 040 terminals

good luck matey

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
rubyrs4 if your in the warrnambool area that would be great! Still stuck here, bursons cant get a walbro for a week or two, trying nissan and other spare parts dealers now

No ... Adelaide.

If that doesn't work, it'd be quicker for me to post my pump to you surely :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

I have not replaced a fuel pump in the Stagea yet but I know from previous experience that if the Tank lid has a rubber O ring that its best to replace it when changing the pump, as the factory ones seem to blow out and get larger on contact with air. As I said this might NOT be the case for you , but might be an idea to look into it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pyro-ns Community Regular

pyro-ns

Posted
Posted
I have not replaced a fuel pump in the Stagea yet but I know from previous experience that if the Tank lid has a rubber O ring that its best to replace it when changing the pump, as the factory ones seem to blow out and get larger on contact with air. As I said this might NOT be the case for you , but might be an idea to look into it.

where do you get these from? can you get generic items?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...