Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just about time to fit a Z32 TT AFM to my S2 R33 GTS25T and wondered if this is a good idea .

If I was to cut the std AFM's loom a bit back from the std connector I could splice a pair of three pin Weather Pack connectors in . Then it would be easy to make up a similar section of loom with the Bosch flat plug for the AFM on one end and another Weather Pack connector on the other to fit the one now in the cars side of the body loom . The idea being to make the system quickly and easily reversible .

Weather Pack connectors look real easy to make up and I have the correct tool for crimping their non insulated terminals . The only thing is how are most people joining the earths together ? A mechanic friend of mine tells me that soldered inline splices are the worst way to do it , short of a Scotchlock , and a mechanical joint would be better .

Thoughts ?

Cheers Adrian .

Edited by discopotato03

i spliced new wires into each wire (twist and tape goodness) and left them long enough to have the new plug in the afm and the stock plug tucked away behind the p/s resevoir. works perfectly

+1 for what he did^ works perferctly fine except I soldered my wires just for extra securtiy but if you want a connector thats fine to as long as its connected correctly anyway will do

if you can be bothered buy a VL afm plug (it connects to the Z32) for about $10

and then find modify a busted ECR33 S2 female socket and make yourself an inline ECR33 to Z32 loom adapter

After what I've seen in looms recently I prefer new plugs and you can buy that one over the counter from Australian Fuel Injection (AFI) for around $25 . Its even the nice one you remove without tools like Commondoor injector plugs . Naturally comes in a kit with new terminals and seals . Whats the usual charge for the new Jap one ?

Could make the other end like you said but a pair of Weather Packs I think make a pretty bullet proof - well weather proof joint .

Cheers A .

This is what i used to make up my AFM loom.

Cut the factory loom and made an adaptor loom using a 3 wire loom and this clips and if i need to put the old AFM in to clear a defect i'll just put a clip on the factory cop tail that i cut off.

466f_35.JPG

For the RB25 afm i only used a 3 wire loom but since the CA loom has 4 wires i used a 4 pin connector.

i spliced new wires into each wire (twist and tape goodness) and left them long enough to have the new plug in the afm and the stock plug tucked away behind the p/s resevoir. works perfectly

that's what i did

Its all finished now but not actually reversible .

With the Z32 sensor bolted in place my mate attacked the std AFM plug basically to pull its innards out so the std terminals could be removed intact . He reasoning was to have the maximum length of wire to crimp new terminals onto .

Now because he's no stranger to automotive electricals he had the connector out and covers off the std AFM before I could say there's nothing wrong with that thing . It was interesting to see how the sensor side connector appears to be removable internally , most I'd seen previously were hard wired/soldered in . My S2 RB25 meter looks like the internal connections are a sort of spring loaded affair . Steve wanted to look into this earth/signal earth business and you can see where the meter can have separate ones though for the series 2 they for whatever reason fitted a 3 wire connector .

All that aside I wrote out wiring diagrams from the DIY here so the relevant wires could be connected to the Z32 MAF . To bridge the earths Steve made a loop wire and it crimped into the middle two terminals along with the cars earth connection . Silly me got the power and signal wires around the wrong way so it ran like a dog and just kept cutting out .

I had an idea what the problem was , basically looking at the wrong side of the plug in the diagram , so the outer 2 of the 4 wires wrong way around . These were changed and the Z32 MAF option entered via Datalogit and it runs reasonably well though it does need to be tuned properly .

So , not reversible after all though as Steve said can you see yourself doing that anyway . I guess he's right because with the 740 injectors it wouldn't have a hope of running with the std computer now .

Cheers Adrian .

If I get a chance I'll take a pic of the new plug/AFM with the boot pulled away so you can see the wiring in the correct order and the loop wire .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...