Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As above, mine works perfectly but gives the noise on startup only.

I just pulled a unit out of a half-cut (my car is in bad shape atm) and it looked almost impossible without the dash off (which I have to do anyway to change my airbags)

I'm going to try giving it power externally to see if it's any good, otherwise i'll try the above mentioned trick! =-]

it took bot an hour on my series 2 with the airbag its possible if you undo the bolts on the middle and left air con box and pull the middle one down off the otheres i have big hands and still got up there the first bolt is easy the front bolt what you need to do is have the small 8mm spanner and manover it from the front but behind the baig bar brace thing and turn it bout twice then just use one finger from ech hand and unscrew then its out im now gna do the rest and put everythin back
hey guys,

just got the motor out of my S2. just thort i would throw up a quick post recommending having a go at the screws using a 8mm socket piece (just the socket) instead of a short spanner (i was about 2seconds from attacking my ring spanner with a 5" before i decided to have a go with the socket)

also, what exactly does this motor do? you say it controls air vent direction, but currently the motor is out of my car and i can switch between modes and it changes the air flow to the selected vent as intended (main, feet, window, etc). AC also works fine and i can change temp range aswell :worship:

I have a series 2 and have not made any progress in being able to get to the motor. I found 4x 10mm bolt screws and removed them. After that, I'm not sure what to do next. I seems this whole box (air con?) assembly needs to come out so that one can get to the motor. Have posted some pics.

img0209tn.jpg

img0210tn.jpg

img0211tn.jpg

img0212tn.jpg

I'd love to fix that horrible clicking sound, but so far this is as far as I've been able to get.

confirming, this DOES work on a series 2 with passenger airbags!!!

As previously mentioned you need to undo the condenser air box and fan box to the left, shift the fanbox a few mm to the left, then pull down on the condenser, it will 'pop' down, giving you ample room to get your hand up there. Do not try and remove the condenser as there are pressurized pipes for the aircon in behind the box.

When you put the condenser back in, just remember to check the seals between the firewall in the engine bay and push them back in as that's what 'pops' wen you pull down.

I used a tiny 1/4 ratchet, thumb phillips screw driver and a 8mm spanner to get the 2 bolts off and on on the motor.

My motor was pretty damaged, there were teeth missing from both gears as shown in the OP, flipped them both round 180, bolted everything back up and works great!

KrazyKong, you are almost there, undo the unit to the left of what you have undone and keep going :cool: there are 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the fan box on :)

confirming, this DOES work on a series 2 with passenger airbags!!!

As previously mentioned you need to undo the condenser air box and fan box to the left, shift the fanbox a few mm to the left, then pull down on the condenser, it will 'pop' down, giving you ample room to get your hand up there. Do not try and remove the condenser as there are pressurized pipes for the aircon in behind the box.

When you put the condenser back in, just remember to check the seals between the firewall in the engine bay and push them back in as that's what 'pops' wen you pull down.

I used a tiny 1/4 ratchet, thumb phillips screw driver and a 8mm spanner to get the 2 bolts off and on on the motor.

My motor was pretty damaged, there were teeth missing from both gears as shown in the OP, flipped them both round 180, bolted everything back up and works great!

KrazyKong, you are almost there, undo the unit to the left of what you have undone and keep going :action-smiley-069: there are 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the fan box on :)

ok, thanks for the info. Will give it another shot.

For the longest time, I've heard some sort of rattle up in my dash, and I could never find what it was. When I took a corner, about half way into the corner, I'd hear something sliding around. I have a hunch there might be a loose bolt or washer inside either the left circular fan box, or the condenser box. Is there anyway to actually open them and look inside? Other wise maybe it's in my passenger side door, but I the more I look at these boxes under the dash, I think it's inside of one of them.

  • 3 weeks later...

After spending 4 hours on this today and having nothing to show for it, to say I'm in a bad mood is an understatement. I don't know how you guys managed this, but in my car there is simply no room to manouever my hands let alone be able to remove the noisy motor. So right now I'm just going to take the whole dash off. I feel dizzy and nautious from my neck being creaked and looking up into that gap. This is not an easy task for a S2 with airbags. Do this at your peril or you'll find yourself getting to the stage you'll want to willingly break something.

Ended up getting the whole dash out. Then proceeded to replace the noisy motor. I took the airbag fuses out of course and disconnected the battery. Then upon firing it up, the sweet noise of nothing. No horrible tock tock tock sound, well so far anyway. I hope I have damaged anything from my earlier venture of trying to get the fan and condenser boxes out before I realized they were attached via pipes from the engine bay. Time will tell. Knowing my luck, I fix something minor only to break something more important.

The light ran out so had to close up the car for the night. But first thing tomorrow, will then attempt to put it all back together again. I'm hoping to be able to peer inside the fan and condensor box to see if there is indeed a loose nut or washer that has been making this sound for ages. But so far I'm not sure how on earth it's possible, as both boxes don't seem to be removable without major headaches with piping, A/C gasses etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

wow has this post been active. S2 is confirmed that it can be done. Took bottom aircon unit out, lucky i had no gass otherwise haha (im sure someone has done it, you know who you are)

Oain in the arse of a job, but honestly was only a matter of time be4 i put my fist through the dash

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi,

I joined this site specially to post this message, im not even from Aussieland!

If you cant be bothered to fix this and want rid of the clicking noise, simply leave the fan setting on 'feet and face'. Once its set to this, the clicking wont ever happen again as when the car is switched on, it remembers the setting you left it on. I use feet and face 99% of the time so hardly ever hear it (unless I change the setting)

With regards to whoever it was who said the clicking noise gets loader/faster when revving... When the engine is off on my car, the clicking noise very slow and goes on for a while. But when the engine is running, its quick. Meaning the motor isnt getting all the power it should (battery not 100%??)

Sorry to drag this thread up!

Cheers,

Mark

Guys ,

I have a 96 gtst sII and i have just started to hear a repeated click but its not comming from the console it appears to be aroung the dash.. It does vary in speed as the motor revs and only when you are moving. After reading this thread i am more aware each time i get in the car (Dam it) crank the radio loader to disperse the clicking sound now as well...lol

Have you guys any ide? i whatched the odemeter & trip meter to see if the moved when it clicked buit i couldnt tell as they both appear to turn over fine....

Regards,

Darren

hey i have the same problem as one of the other guys on here, my heater is stuck on, no matter what temp i set it too.. and i believe its one of these motors..can anyone tell me were i can find it?

and di anyone firgure out what this motor from this topic does? lol

you need a new climate control unit to fix the stuck on hot or cold problem. only way i figured out how to fix it.

the motor in this topic as previously stated controls face, feet, windscreen etc vent control

  • 2 months later...
hey guys,

just got the motor out of my S2. just thort i would throw up a quick post recommending having a go at the screws using a 8mm socket piece (just the socket) instead of a short spanner (i was about 2seconds from attacking my ring spanner with a 5" before i decided to have a go with the socket)

also, what exactly does this motor do? you say it controls air vent direction, but currently the motor is out of my car and i can switch between modes and it changes the air flow to the selected vent as intended (main, feet, window, etc). AC also works fine and i can change temp range aswell :P

I think it opens/closes the vents, though not sure if it does others. But I do know it opens/closes the big main vent that you see sliding up and down. This is the one above the stereo and the hazard switches. If you take the dash covering off that contains the hazard, demister and etc. switch on it off, you'll see a big vent covering. That's what it moves.

  • 4 weeks later...

+1 socket works well and awesome work on the writeup. Though I did drop the socket and it disappeared...... Was about 2 seconds from tearing the dash apart then thought to use a magnet on a piece of string which worked a treat!!! :laugh:

  • 1 month later...

Removing the whole dash is easier than you think. I've done it a few times now. Once you know where all the screws are, the hardest part is taking the whole thing out without scratching things. I gave things a nice clean when I had it out and also fixed a few others. End result is no more noise from the frog motor and silence :)

so im guessing this would be the same for a R33 GTR?

mine is also stuck on hot so could be a combination of climate control an this vent control which makes the clicking noise? :angry:

awesome write up also Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...