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any1 know wat will happen if i just unplug this motor? its in a position where if i unplug it theres no way its going bak in without taking the WHOLE dash off so just wanna clarify 1st

If you unplug it, you just wont be able to change your vent direction at all.

Complete dash out is an option if you cant reach it, but would most likely be a bit of a bitch of a job. (I've never tried)

My first one, and also my current 33 both did this. I knew what the noise was, but havent yet tried to get in there n reach it. I'll most likely gived it a shot tomorrow!

if i had a series 2 car as a test cop i could have a good go at making up a write up for the s2. im sure there is a way

il have a go and let you no, i no you glued yours, but can do you know how much it would cost to replace the motor, what is the technical name for ther motor?

hey ya mine has the srs airbags and i cant get my hand up there do you know any other way

Disclaimer:

This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car

Introduction:

After hearing friends cars make the noise i figured it was a skyline thing, but when my own skyline started doing it i couldnt put up with even after 1 day of driving. I couldn't find anything on the internet about how to fix it so i went about my own way to find the cause.....with results. this is the 3rd motor i have fixed the last two motors work perfectly so its a tested method

Car in Question:

1995 Model Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

Difficulty Level of DIY:

Low

Time Needed:

Budget at least one hour, if its your first time. ive done 3 now takes about 20 mins including glue drying time

Materials/Equipment Needed:

-Phillips head screw driver

-2 flatblade screwdrivers

-Small length 8mm ring spanner

-5min araldite or similar glue

-Electrical tape

-If you want gloves when prying off the arm..........i ended up slipping and getting 3 stitches

Procedure:

start by pulling the glove box out by pull the 2 pins out

1DSC_0278Large.jpg

then take out the 6 phillips head screws and theres 2 press in clips that take a lil bit of force to pull out

1DSC_0279Large.jpg

the motor in question is right up in there.

1DSC_0280Large.jpg

this is where the 4 jointed arms come in there in two 8mm bolts in there (couldnt get picture) but they are easy felt.

1DSC_0283Large.jpg

once you have the two 8mm screws out lil the motor directly up pull it out unplug it and this is what you should have in front of you

1DSC_0287Large.jpg

1DSC_0288Large.jpg

start buy levering the 5 locking tabs out of the way (the ones ive done have all broken so yours will likely do the same)

1DSC_0289Large.jpg

lever open the two halfs can be a pain but if it comes up evenly will be fine

1DSC_0290Large.jpg

theres the cause of the noise the tooth breaks off cause the motor not to reach a load stop and just keeps trying to turn

1DSC_0291Large.jpg

its good to just inspect all the gears and teeth for strength.

1DSC_0292Large.jpg

Now this is the time where the gloves come in as i found out screwdrivers double as daggers (as you can see) lever the arm off the gear. this will require a bit of force it will either comply and come off or the glue will still have a hold on it.

1DSC_0293Large.jpg

1DSC_0294Large.jpg

IMAG0088Large.jpg

once you have the arm off this is what results

1DSC_0295Large.jpg

careful to not loose the tension washer

1DSC_0296Large.jpg

check that theres is no left over glue or plastic inside the arm

1DSC_0297Large.jpg

now rotate the gear 180degrees from where it originally was so that the missing tooth is away from drive gear

1DSC_0298Large.jpg

another careful note. check that the copper strip doesnt fall out. not sure what it does but must be something

1DSC_0300Large.jpg

put a small amount of glue on the end of the gear

1DSC_0301Large.jpg

push the arm back on the gently tap it on with a hammer as the shaft is tapered, then clean up any excess glue. this should be the end result.

1DSC_0302Large.jpg

now put all parts that you pulled out back in the housing and put the two halves together being careful to align the locator dowels with gears. tape all way around motor (if you clips broke).

There you have it a completed fixed motor.

1DSC_0305Large.jpg

when reinstalling motor make double sure the arm slides back into the lever on top of the aircon box, have to do this all by feel.

dont over tighten the 8mm screws as its only plastic its screwing into after all, just till they bite.

plug motor in and reinstall all the glovebox surround etc and test the aircon changes around all the vents

Lastly Enjoy the quietness of no stupid clicking noise

it took bot an hour on my series 2 with the airbag its possible if you undo the bolts on the middle and left air con box and pull the middle one down off the otheres i have big hands and still got up there the first bolt is easy the front bolt what you need to do is have the small 8mm spanner and manover it from the front but behind the baig bar brace thing and turn it bout twice then just use one finger from ech hand and unscrew then its out im now gna do the rest and put everythin back

so any1 been able to complete this on the s2 with airbags? i really want to get mine done.

my car makes a clunking noise from around the head unit area, it doesnt keep on going tho it happens just after starting up the car 'sometimes' and only happens like 4 or 5 times, are we on the same page here or is my noise something different?.. it also beeps 3 times (i thought this was the immobiliser but i had this removed and it remains).

Azza your problem might be different, The vent motor noise only happens when the car is turned on (ignition or started) its a ticking/clunking noise that goes away after about 15 seconds it will also continuously do it every time you put the car in ignition or start it because the gear is broken. If yours only occurs a few times then goes away then reoccurs again id say its different. The vent motor does not create any beeping noises either but thats just from my experience.

what you just explained is exactly what my car does i went and had a look, i mustn't notice it that much coz i turned my ignition on & off like 5 times before and it clicked like 20 times then stopped, each time.. never happens when im driving, by the way i have a series 1 r33 can i still do this midification to stop the clicking?

Yeah this mod works easiest with a Series 1 becuase the Series 2 have a passenger side airbag which makes getting to the motor a bit more difficult. Good too see the problems solved : )

Edited by DarkRyda

hahah the back bolt is an effort to get in i agree so is that annoying lever but basically the unit switches between vents (foot, dash, face, demister etc...) just check that there all working an you would have done the procedures correctly.

hey guys,

just got the motor out of my S2. just thort i would throw up a quick post recommending having a go at the screws using a 8mm socket piece (just the socket) instead of a short spanner (i was about 2seconds from attacking my ring spanner with a 5" before i decided to have a go with the socket)

also, what exactly does this motor do? you say it controls air vent direction, but currently the motor is out of my car and i can switch between modes and it changes the air flow to the selected vent as intended (main, feet, window, etc). AC also works fine and i can change temp range aswell ;)

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