Where To Get Water Feed From!

[17psi r33]

Hi!, i am installing a gt3076r on my rb25det (hks low mount manifold) but the turbo that was installed is oil cooled only (turbo was upgraded to diesel turbo and ran out of puff) and the standard water feed line is not on the motor!!!!!! so need to know where the most affective and easy to reach location for the water feed to come from is? and is the return location the blanked off bolt at the back of the motor below the manifold on the same side as the oil feed line? i have heard i can "t" into the top heater hose to feed the turbo and think this sound a bit house your father!!!

[NYTSKY]

The feed comes from the back of the engine, if you remover the drivers side rocker cover and look between the engine and firewall you will see it.

[boostn0199]

or remove the aac and move around the wiring harness there abit and you should see it, will be a bit of a F#@k around to get it on but if you cant be bothred taken the rocker off can be done

[17psi r33]

ok well when i get back home ill remove the rocker cover and have a look see, and is hard to get a speed flow fitting into this outlet? also i know this is annoying cause im sure this question has been asked many times befor but what size and thread type are all the outlets?(block only) Oil feed? oil drain? water feed? water return? byt the way thanks for the fast response it has made the battle i face a lote easyer

[discopotato03]

I actually like the way Nissan did the RB26's with the water return into the engines top water outlet . This ensures that any coolant boiling in the turbo/s water jackets after shut down returns steam bubbles to the radiator and preferably the overflow bottle . The RB25 looks like it returns water/steam etc via plumbing around the back of the head and into the inlet manifolds water log - then through the water outlet to the radiator .

If you did it RB26 style on an RB25 it would mean tapping into the inlet manifolds cast in water outlet - which is removable on an RB26 . It also means running a water line around the front of the engine either behind that front plate

or simply around the front of the belt cover - secured properly BTW .

I stay away from bling alloy fittings because they are expensive and not available everywhere . I use the simplest brass barbed fittings I can find with usually fuel hose , EFI hose is very hardy , and clamp it on with Wormald screw clamps . It doesn't look racer like but fittings/hose/clamps easy and cheap to get at short notice .

Also Import Wreckers will sometimes sell you good second hand OE turbo water lines and and banjo bolts which is a godsend for connecting to the turbo itself . They usually have banjo fittings and enough length of hard line to get you far enough away from the turbos heat to clamp a hose and not have it fry . From memory Garrett small frame , up to GT3582R and T04Z , BB turbos use 14mm banjo bolts and these are common to some Nissans .

The RB's standard turbo uses large banjos and bolts and not sure but these may have been the same as the water cooled T3's like say a VL Turbo has std . A lot of those "Hi Flowed" T3/T4 "hybrids" use that water cooled bearing housing and these banjo fittings . Again not sure but 18mm thread springs to mind for some reason . Check anyway .

I reckon you'd probably source a block water fitting the same way . Naturally make sure these bits are not rusted out and likely to fail . Also check that block water fitting because some Nissans used smaller ones - possibly 12mm , don't know what RB25's have .

I'd have to look at an RB engine , isn't the water supply for the turbo towards the rear of the block low down ? From memory there is a banjo fitting and steel hard line to the turbo itself .

My theory has always been find water from as low on the block as you can get , drain bung hole etc , Water would be coolest here .

Return water as high as you can get on the engine which is usually its top water outlet .

Always try to run water lines uphill to the turbo and again to the cooling systems high point . This way the coolant will thermosyphon at shut down and any steam bubbles return to the radiator - not the cylinder heads water jacket .

Cheers A .

Edited January 1, 2010 by discopotato03

[Dale FZ1]

.

If you did it RB26 style on an RB25 it would mean tapping into the inlet manifolds cast in water outlet - which is removable on an RB26 . It also means running a water line around the front of the engine either behind that front plate

or simply around the front of the belt cover - secured properly BTW .

Something like this?

Bear in mind getting everything fastened to avoid fatiguing the water pipe takes a bit of work.

.

I stay away from bling alloy fittings because they are expensive and not available everywhere . I use the simplest brass barbed fittings I can find with usually fuel hose , EFI hose is very hardy , and clamp it on with Wormald screw clamps . It doesn't look racer like but fittings/hose/clamps easy and cheap to get at short notice .

Brass fittings and high quality hose does not cost the earth, and can still look - and do - the goods provided bling isn't the aim.

[kyle785]

[kyle785]

ive put a circle on the water feed line and thats a nice turbo set up im got the same one on a hks low mount its a tight fit around the eng mount but goes hard

[Chris Wilson]

If you go here:

http://www.chriswilson.tv/RB25_build/RB25_build.html

my RB25DET spare engine build is shown, it has an HKS low mount turbo on it and the coolant and oil lines are detailed well.

[17psi r33]

If you go here:

http://www.chriswilson.tv/RB25_build/RB25_build.html

my RB25DET spare engine build is shown, it has an HKS low mount turbo on it and the coolant and oil lines are detailed well.

thanks for the pic's and information as to where to pic up the water return and feed. it has made life easy as now i know where to look, and i had the system flow the wrong way in my head i thought water flowed top to bottom not bottom to top, and i have wanted to know what the limit is of the gt3076r with the 0.82r housing, as this is being bolted to a motor that had everything done to it, as i stated befor the turbo installed first off ran out of puff at 350rwhp! (big let down!!!!!!!) so this turbo i hope will see me to the magic 500rwhp!!!!!! i hope!

[limpus]

Hate to burst your bubble but a 3076R 0.82 will not get you 500rwhp...

[17psi r33]

Hate to burst your bubble but a 3076R 0.82 will not get you 500rwhp...

dam it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! now ill be doing things like water methanol injection to try and reach that goal!

[discopotato03]

I think you'd need the largest or 1.06 A/R turbine housing to get anywhere near 500 RWHP . Like I keep saying the exhaust gas flow goes up a sizeable amount between the 0.82 and the 1.06 GT30 turbine housings , more so than between the 0.63 and the 0.82 ones .

Yes you would get a certain amount of turbine lag with that 1.06 housing but you are asking for more than double the factory 240 odd CHP and at the wheels now .

Have a look at ATP's website , there is mention of a 1.06 A/R twin scroll turbine housing profiled for (from memory) GT3582R's and GT3076R's .

Almost sure to have a twin entry T4 International flange so maybe not much use to you .

Some won't agree but in my opinion you're going to need some fairly serious gas paths to make something like 220 WHP per litre engine size .

I dunno where you go from here but either an RB30 or at least an RB26 headed engine is possibly a good start . HKS did a single split pulsed turbo manifold for RB26's as part of a kit using a Garrett TA45S turbocharger . Personal theory but I reckon a Garrett GT4088R on one would be very impressive , particularly with the 30 bottom end .

Your call , cheers A .

[17psi r33]

I think you'd need the largest or 1.06 A/R turbine housing to get anywhere near 500 RWHP . Like I keep saying the exhaust gas flow goes up a sizeable amount between the 0.82 and the 1.06 GT30 turbine housings , more so than between the 0.63 and the 0.82 ones .

Yes you would get a certain amount of turbine lag with that 1.06 housing but you are asking for more than double the factory 240 odd CHP and at the wheels now .

Have a look at ATP's website , there is mention of a 1.06 A/R twin scroll turbine housing profiled for (from memory) GT3582R's and GT3076R's .

Almost sure to have a twin entry T4 International flange so maybe not much use to you .

Some won't agree but in my opinion you're going to need some fairly serious gas paths to make something like 220 WHP per litre engine size .

I dunno where you go from here but either an RB30 or at least an RB26 headed engine is possibly a good start . HKS did a single split pulsed turbo manifold for RB26's as part of a kit using a Garrett TA45S turbocharger . Personal theory but I reckon a Garrett GT4088R on one would be very impressive , particularly with the 30 bottom end .

Your call , cheers A .

well thats just great, so do you know what the upper limmit of this set up will be, i have forged bottom end, worked head by jhh, cams pfc, injetors, greedy plenum bla bla bla......... nothing has been missed and yet still wont get this goal? when i was ordering this turbine i was informed that this turbo could flow enough to support that amount of out put?

[zebra]

well they are rated at 525hp at the flywheel, so who ever told you that it would flow 500Rwhp (375rwkws) on pump gas was either on crack or a having a lend of you.

[17psi r33]

ive put a circle on the water feed line and thats a nice turbo set up im got the same one on a hks low mount its a tight fit around the eng mount but goes hard

i went and had a look an cant use this pick up point as the motor is in the car, and im using a greedy plenum so factory water outlets are gone it so annoying.