Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

looking at buying an older car with some rust

and unsure how to go about fitting the new panel

some resto threads showed me that they tacked them on and then put some putty and stuff ontop to smooth it out

is this the right method?

what setting tig should i use?

im pretty scared with the tig as i have blown some holes into stainless sheets :woot:

the plan shud be, line up clamp,magnet into place, tack, then weld the joins completely sealed, grind/file and sand it smooth .

shudn't really be using putty unless the heat distorted the panel etc

the plan shud be, line up clamp,magnet into place, tack, then weld the joins completely sealed, grind/file and sand it smooth .

shudn't really be using putty unless the heat distorted the panel etc

thought so, would tigging be ideal? wat about arc welding?

when welding in panels should you tack it ever say inch, then go back to the beginning and put another tack, over lapping or just under the first lot of tacks and keep repeating till you have welded the hole seam/join.

or is it better to tack it then do one complete weld between each tack one at a time?

cheers

elliot

when welding in panels should you tack it ever say inch, then go back to the beginning and put another tack, over lapping or just under the first lot of tacks and keep repeating till you have welded the hole seam/join.

or is it better to tack it then do one complete weld between each tack one at a time?

cheers

elliot

unless you can hammer weld or are good with a shrinking disk you should use the tack method for the panels.

Bear in mind that quickly cooling the area after the weld will cause it to shrink, you just need to be sure that the shrinking effect isnt greater than the expansion caused by the welding.

Further more with regard to the mig, ive got not idea your experience level, but my pick for consumables for a car would be

.8mm er70s-6 wire , co2 sheilding gas and dialing in 40-80 amp. You can go for an argon mix gas to reduce the spatter but its twice the price, per volume.

  • 2 months later...
so you reckon a tig aint any good to weld car pannels? i would have thought it useful no?

Takes to long to generate enough heat to get penetration, than you need to spot it with filler rod... and basically it created to much heat.

your much better off tacking it with a mig, basically tac the whole way around it in a sequence to keep the heat even so the panel doesnt warp.

yea i get you now,the mig is kind of instant,i just bought a miller 275 syncrowave,mainly for alloy ect but i had hoped it would do a bit of boddy work also!looks like ill have to buy more toys,good excuse for the gf!

  • 3 months later...

MIG is definatly the easyest way. tacking all the way round till the whole thing is sealed is the best way. depends on what sorta quality repair you want thought.

most rust repairs or panel joining i do myself, i weld with any oxy welder. purley because you cannot metal finish panels when using mig because is makes the panel to brittle and un- workable. and yes oxy does put out alot of heat but when done propery it is the best method. mig is i lot quicker thou :O

  • 4 weeks later...

:ermm: Hi friend

This is Lilly. I don't have that much knowledge about fabrication. But what you gave that is useful for me.

Thank you.

________________________________________________________________________________

_____

Want to get-on Google's first page and loads of traffic to your website? Hire a SEO Specialist from Ocean Groups seo pecialist

was going to tell you to use mig like everyone else did!

well howd you go? any pics?

i have no idea about welding car panels. but when we make pharmaceutical tanks, when we weld the seam after weve rolled the tank. we hammer and dolly it just to stress relieve it

http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/rust.htm

this bloke has done a pretty good job, using the tig as well

should probably link you to the finished product as well lol

http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/simons.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...