Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm looking at some mild performance mods for my 'line. Not planning on taking onto the track for any major racing time, except for the occasional hoon along WSID once it opens :D

Anyway I'm trying to achieve around 200-200rwkW, and looking at intercooler upgrades to help that along the way..

Just wondering if it's really necessary to shell out on one of those 600x270x?.. front mounts, or will I be able to scrape by with a stock intercooler (maybe a r34 GT-T one if necessary)?

Other options I was looking at was a not-as-big FMIC, like an VR4 / Evo / Apexi (500x?x?) ones..

Any advice?

Cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30220-r33-gtst-intercooler-upgrade-qu/
Share on other sites

Its impossible to reach that power level on the stock turbo on a r33 most of them seem to max out around the 180-190kw (I have seen over 200rwkw but on a dyno that reads notoriously high) so you will need to upgrade the turbo and the intercooler. Do a search on here for turbo's and you'll pull up a heap of threads one guy in particular has made good power using a vg30 turbo and modifying it slightly and ended up costing less than $500 I think. If you want a complete turbo I'd get something along the lines of a garrett gt25/40 (around $1900-$2000) and that will get you just over 200kw, if you want 250kw get a gt30 as for the intercooler just find a good locally made unit, you can get a good japanese kit like a hks or a trust from a certain person in japan but you risk paying import duty and gst (a total of 25% more).

the standard intercooler can be improved upon. My reccomendation is the trust tube and fin bolt in replacement. Around $900 and will support 200rwkw.

There has been a few R33's to get 200rwkw on the factory turbo, some with the times to back it up too. For street use and the occasional drag strip visit a front mount can be put off till you do some better value for money mods. I know of one gtst in perth with both factory ic and turbo to pull 211rwkw on a dyno that reads fairly btw.

hehe woops..maybe somewhere in the 180-220 range..I know that's fairly broad, I guess I'll see how I go.. haven't really done anything yet, just pipe dreams at the moment..

My car managed 200rwkw on 15psi with a stock intercooler...but it had alot of help from a high-flowed t04 compressor housing with a stainless steel wheel. then it needed an S-AFC, boost controller, pod filter, and a turbo back exhaust. The turbine housing is still stock.

The whole Hi-flowed thing was done by the previous owner...but yea, if not for that then i would probably be fighting alot harder and sleeping less trying to get money for mods that stretch the stock turbo to its limits.

With a FMIC, I can achieve 200rwkw at 12psi. It helps cos it's safer, and a cos of a retuned S-AFC

My point is that it can be done on a stock cooler, but nobody would recommend it. Things will get too hot. They could only run my car up to 200rwkw once that day cos of the heat soaking into everything.

  rev210 said:
the standard intercooler can be improved upon. My reccomendation is the trust tube and fin bolt in replacement. Around $900 and will support 200rwkw.

There has been a few R33's to get 200rwkw on the factory turbo, some with the times to back it up too. For street use and the occasional drag strip visit a front mount can be put off till you do some better value for money mods. I know of one gtst in perth with both factory ic and turbo to pull 211rwkw on a dyno that reads fairly btw.

Hi rev210.

Where can you get these trust coolers from, this sounds quite interesting..

Make sure you choose a FMIC suited towards the power figures that you are after. No point getting a massssive FMIC if you only want 180-220rwkw (which IMO is possible with the standard Turbo).

I managed 200 rwkw on the stock turbo (but like everyone says, the dyno could be reading a little high). I also have a VR4 cooler with larger inlet / outlets on the end tanks (as the originals were only 2" I think). Other mods are pneumatic boost controller (as seen on autospeed.com), K&N hi-flow panel filter element, 3" turbo back exhaust, and SAFC with A/F ratio's at 12:1.

When I added the boost controller and ran car at higher boost I felt a small power difference

When I dropped a hi-flow filter element I felt the car was struggling less at hi rpm. (I had a pod filter on before that, which felt NO different to a hi-flow panel filter, so only get a pod if u like the noise it makes..... I hate it though, so I got rid of it)

When I put the cat back exhaust on I felt almost no difference

When I put dump/front pipe I felt a little difference

When I put intercooler on I felt NO difference

When SAFC was tuned, I felt a HUGE difference.

I'd say don't expect too much out of your mods until you sort your a/f ratios out though.... With all my mods (minus SAFC) I managed a top of 164rwkw. My A/F ratio's were all over the place, and car ran like CRAP after 5000rpm. tuning my A/F ratio's helped me get the most out of all my mods, so make sure that (or aftermarket tuneable ECU if u can afford it) is on your list....

Thought I'd post my experiences up since your goal is same/similar to what I set out to achieve. Hope you find the info useful!

Zahos

Guest RedLineGTR
  rev210 said:
the trust intercooler is availible from takakaira.co.jp / greenline and nengun.

The side mounting of the intercooler has the advantage of much better airflow than the front mounting except the space is a little restricted.

side mounting the intercooler would u mean like getting a original mount cooler simialr to the stock r33 gtst one but bigger and fatter and that flows better??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...