Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if there was no VNs, people would find another car similar to do similar things in. now, you claim speed bumps would help, might reduce it a bit however VNs aint imports, you dont go over a speed bump @ 5kph in a VN. since i still drive a VN (only a week to go before s14), speeds bumps @ 50kph isn't too bad, tried 70kph before, that was a bit of a bump and yeh, suspension wouldn't last doing that either.

The problem is its a fairly wide road and although lots of houses, there is very little traffic. There is ample opportunity to be on the power for quite a while. Although I haven't tried I believe my 33 would be more then capable of reaching 160-180 with a bit of effort on the entry corner (50 zone). At the end it goes uphill for the last 100 metres. Right at the top of the hill instantly hit a T intersection (with this run being the stop and wait direction). (No street signs either)

In this case the VN according to a resident who ran up the road after the car (lol) said the kid was on the power the entire way before braking at the top and trying to get around the corner. So if there were speed bumps and a VN is capable of uncomfortably going over at 80km/h then we would still be better off then we are now. Turns out its not the first time. Our next door neighbour had someone crash into a friends car parked out the front of there house then follow through into their carpark hitting their own car as well a couple of years ago.

I think History has it right. If someones trying to bust their way in. Build a wall. When that doesn't work add a moat. And if your still in trouble then you better invent a gun for when they make it through.

Luke

Edited by l_uk3y
  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well, i didn't think of the differences between roads in the suburbs and your area, mine are mostly narrow and full of cars. i think you ll find a few chicanes more effective along with the odd speed bump (since they are always pain). a hard chicane will slow most people down to below 50kphs, more like 30kph and only a decent car will be able to go past 60kph threw them, plus the speed bumps would probably get rid of a lot of the trouble on your road.

considering you have a wide road with a hill at one end, it's just asking for trouble :banana:

Yeah those ones Peter89, no match for a Landcruiser with a bullbar which has nearly as much steel as a bulldozer blade and a lift kit! Signs have all been smashed over completely and the chicanes themselves are covered in rubber! Non bogans like me are good and can drive through them easily at the speed limit lol

You wont want speed bumps. Seriously. They Make a hell of a racket every time someone drives over it. Kinda like a "thump" as each pair of wheels hit it.

It gets frustratingly annoying. And is surprisingly loud. Not noticed when your driving of cousre, but when one is outside your house and down your street. Its like thunder.

You'd be better off with some tight chicanes or something like that..

But glad to hear that the tree saved your house! And that they were caught.

...adding to that, hoons seem to be attracted to speed bumps, then you'll have the dickheads doing burnouts and donuts in your street or front of your house. chicanes are a good idea IMO, slow people down and don't give these VN driving bogans reason to bag 'em up in the middle of the night.

why don't you invent some speed operated tyre spikes? if a car goes over a certain speed up the street the tyre spikes deploy, as well as a big safety net to stop the car from going out of control into a house.

or like what they have on air craft carriers, have a big hook that catches onto the diff (or rear axle in a fwd car) and slows the car before yanking the arse end of the car off. that'll at least stop them using the street for hooning in the future

Hmmm. My tats ticket wasn't lucky the other night. Sadly $40 won't go far towards something like that and even if it did I wouldn't be able to eat for another week. Damn me and my spending habits.

Just a quick vent. We get so many late night hoons near our place. All they need is a few speed bumps but it will nether happen. Just another tick in the Bendigo Hoon capital of Victoria box to help hurt the people who try to do things properly.

Here's your solution

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...