Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I have been reading that there is a drain plug on the block which you can use to get rid of all the coolant from the block.

Does anybody have any pics of this plug or can you explain to me where it is??

I drained the radiator, took the hoses off it and put compressed air through the block, all up we only replaced 5 litres of coolant and thats including the resorvoir tank, i have read that the r34GTT takes about 8-9 litres so theres still 4 litres of coolant somewhere which i cant get out???

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/
Share on other sites

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013102
Share on other sites

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

So turn on the car, have the heater on for a while until it gets hot, turn car off, drain radiator and engine bock, fill with water, bleed air out.

Run the car up again with heater on, drain the radiator and block again, bleed again,then fill with coolant while the car is runing with heater on??

Thats it corect?

Thanks for your help mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013141
Share on other sites

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car.

Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out.

Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013170
Share on other sites

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car.

Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out.

Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

Will that completely drain out the block like the drain plug would?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013212
Share on other sites

it will flush the block \ everything.

Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in.

All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full.

You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013249
Share on other sites

it will flush the block \ everything.

Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in.

All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full.

You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

Drain the block...by taking out the drain plug from the block?? if so where is that,everybody talks about it but i cant find anywhere that shows a pic of it or anything?? Do i have to take parts out to get to this plug??

Thanks for all your help mate.

Edited by TMW-R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013271
Share on other sites

Drain the block...by taking out the drain plug from the block?? if so where is that,everybody talks about it but i cant find anywhere that shows a pic of it or anything?? Do i have to take parts out to get to this plug??

Thanks for all your help mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013285
Share on other sites

he already told you where it was, what else do you need?

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

all i do is remove the bottom rad hose and a heater hose, turn the heater on then put a garden hose into the heater hose. flush it till clean water comes out of the radiator, heater core and block. add 4 liters of coolant and job done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013529
Share on other sites

I found out the hard way just how much water stays in the block the other day..

Radiator was out etc, gave the waterpump a tap with a bit of 4x2 to break the seal, and i swear i got 2-3litres out of it.

Took well over 6l to fill it back up again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013889
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...