Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a r32 with a rb25det series 2! I live in whittlesea, I'm looking for a good shop to take it to close to the whittlesea area?? I just dnt think it is running properly?? It sumtimes stalls wen I accelerate and then brake? It missfires sumtimes wen ihave it on high boost setting 11psi?? And just wondering if I need to change the diff cause I kept the r32 diff and i think the ratio is wrong, at 100km/h it is reving at 3000 I think that's too high and it is spoiling a lol bit, and probly useing to much fuel?? The mods I hav are rb25det s2 with rb25det box, big fuel pump, fuel reg, front mount, pod filter, full 3 inch exhaust and hi low boost controler 11psi on high and stock boost on low! Thanks. I should add that whittlesea is in Vic and its kinda near epping

Edited by ryan101
I have a r32 with a rb25det series 2! I live in whittlesea, I'm looking for a good shop to take it to close to the whittlesea area?? I just dnt think it is running properly?? It sumtimes stalls wen I accelerate and then brake? It missfires sumtimes wen ihave it on high boost setting 11psi?? And just wondering if I need to change the diff cause I kept the r32 diff and i think the ratio is wrong, at 100km/h it is reving at 3000 I think that's too high and it is spoiling a lol bit, and probly useing to much fuel?? The mods I hav are rb25det s2 with rb25det box, big fuel pump, fuel reg, front mount, pod filter, full 3 inch exhaust and hi low boost controler 11psi on high and stock boost on low! Thanks. I should add that whittlesea is in Vic and its kinda near epping

Try your local state section, assuming Victoria, there are many recommended mechanics if you are willing to come to Melbourne. A quick search will reveal all.

remember this equation...

good + cheap = not fast

fast + cheap = not goot

good + fast = not cheap..

Take your car to Creatd in Campbelfield - Easily one of the best mechanics/tuners - 03 9357 7663

good and cheap dont usually go together you should look for more good mechianic that is reasonalbly priced and honest because remmber as in alot of things you get what you pay for so if you wanna go cheap expect a cheap shitty job

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...