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Hi All,

I have a couple of MR30 Skylines that I use for dirt circuit racing.

I am wondering if there are any easy mods to get better performance without spending any real money.

There are a group of us old racers now running old low budget Skylines, and spending any real money goes against the spirit of the thing. One group run a C210, and 3 guys run R31s. I am the only one running an R30, and can keep them all honest due to better traction.

Both are L24E motors, standard everything...

Wondering if there are easy mods like swapping the AFM/TB of another Datsun, ways to fool the ECU into delivering more fuel, easy injector swap etc.

After 20 years of racing I am pretty handy with the spanners, just don't know anyting aboot EFI or these old Skylines.

Cheers,

Daewoo

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Hi All,

I have a couple of MR30 Skylines that I use for dirt circuit racing.

I am wondering if there are any easy mods to get better performance without spending any real money.

There are a group of us old racers now running old low budget Skylines, and spending any real money goes against the spirit of the thing. One group run a C210, and 3 guys run R31s. I am the only one running an R30, and can keep them all honest due to better traction.

Both are L24E motors, standard everything...

Wondering if there are easy mods like swapping the AFM/TB of another Datsun, ways to fool the ECU into delivering more fuel, easy injector swap etc.

After 20 years of racing I am pretty handy with the spanners, just don't know anyting aboot EFI or these old Skylines.

Cheers,

Daewoo

You could use the resistor inline with the temp sensor trick, making the EFI system think the engine is colder that what it is, the EFI system would then give the engine more fuel.

Nigel

Edited by noddle
You could use the resistor inline with the temp sensor trick, making the EFI system think the engine is colder that what it is, the EFI system would then give the engine more fuel.

Nigel

Cheers Nigel, I suppose the fully sik hektik race mod would be a vairable resistor...

No AFM/TB swaps that would work??? As I understand, the R30 EFI is analogue, and everything else is digital, so I can't just put the AFM/TB off an R31 for example...

Also, the injectors have the fuel hose integrated, where everything else I know if sits in a fuel rail. Can I steal injectors off something else, particlarly since mine have 20 years of gunk in them...

Cheers,

Darryl,

Hi All,

I have a couple of MR30 Skylines that I use for dirt circuit racing.

I am wondering if there are any easy mods to get better performance without spending any real money.

There are a group of us old racers now running old low budget Skylines, and spending any real money goes against the spirit of the thing. One group run a C210, and 3 guys run R31s. I am the only one running an R30, and can keep them all honest due to better traction.

...

Hi,

Whereabouts do you race?

JH

I run it in the NSW State Khanacross Championship... rounds all around Sydney (Newcastle to Richmond to Nowra)...

It is a CAMS event, so I am sure Vic would have it too...

I bought the first MR30 off a mate for the value of the TI Mags and dissy, $400, turned up to a race (with 2 others driving my car) and another 3 white skylines turn up (with 3 drivers each)... all of them $500 POSs :) ... we just get out there and go hard, a couple of other guys have bought cars along thinking they could join in, but can't handle the pace...

If you snot a tree with a $500 POS, you just take the wheels and dissy, and look for another... :)

The beginning of the NSW White Skyline One Make Khanacross Championship...

Edited by Daewoo
Cheers Nigel, I suppose the fully sik hektik race mod would be a vairable resistor...

No AFM/TB swaps that would work??? As I understand, the R30 EFI is analogue, and everything else is digital, so I can't just put the AFM/TB off an R31 for example...

Also, the injectors have the fuel hose integrated, where everything else I know if sits in a fuel rail. Can I steal injectors off something else, particlarly since mine have 20 years of gunk in them...

Cheers,

Darryl,

Darryl,

FJ20et injectors are hose tail, direct replacement and 375cc as opposed to about 188cc in the L24e.

A Z31 AFM might do something, as it flows a shit load more air than the L24e, or maybe the MX83 Cressida AFM as it's about twice the size of the L24e and there is a thread on AtlanticZ tech tips on how to modify it to suit and it looks the same as in configuration.

The best bet is try to find a secondhand microtech that just controls fuel mapping, they are fairly cheap and come up often on ebay, so when you replace the AFM with bigger, change the injectors to FJ20et, put in a higher pressure/flow rate fuel pump, you will be able to programme it to run right. With a higher pressure fuel pump, you will have to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to allow the higher flow rate of fuel.

Otherwise a good set of extractors (maybe Hurricane) and a free flow exhaust. No need for cats and as it's a khana car, you might get away with putting it out the side under the back door, so less bends and less chance of excessive back pressure. The best motor to work with comes out of series 2, after Aug 83 & 1984/85 as this engine has a 9:1 compression as opposed to the earlier 8.5:1 compression.

Cheers, D

Darryl,

If your an old racer like me, you wont have to be told about setting up your suspension to suit your application, as this will work wonders, as you would be aware.

Send me a PM and we can chat out of the forum.

Cheers, D

Darryl,

FJ20et injectors are hose tail, direct replacement and 375cc as opposed to about 188cc in the L24e.

A Z31 AFM might do something, as it flows a shit load more air than the L24e, or maybe the MX83 Cressida AFM as it's about twice the size of the L24e and there is a thread on AtlanticZ tech tips on how to modify it to suit and it looks the same as in configuration.

The best bet is try to find a secondhand microtech that just controls fuel mapping, they are fairly cheap and come up often on ebay, so when you replace the AFM with bigger, change the injectors to FJ20et, put in a higher pressure/flow rate fuel pump, you will be able to programme it to run right. With a higher pressure fuel pump, you will have to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to allow the higher flow rate of fuel.

Otherwise a good set of extractors (maybe Hurricane) and a free flow exhaust. No need for cats and as it's a khana car, you might get away with putting it out the side under the back door, so less bends and less chance of excessive back pressure. The best motor to work with comes out of series 2, after Aug 83 & 1984/85 as this engine has a 9:1 compression as opposed to the earlier 8.5:1 compression.

Cheers, D

Thanks D... I am assuming that FJ20ET Injectors are not cheap... but will keep them in mind... I'll also keep an eye out for a microtech, but they actually don't come up so often... that would be ideal, as I am sure the AFM/small TB is the bigger problem... Most Zeds run 6x36mm Chokes in their webbers, and this motor has one 42mm TB... can't be good...

It has headers, and I will use most of a 2 1/2 Inch exhaust from one of the wrecks I stripped...

Darryl,

If your an old racer like me, you wont have to be told about setting up your suspension to suit your application, as this will work wonders, as you would be aware.

Send me a PM and we can chat out of the forum.

Cheers, D

I am an old racer, but this car has to stay as a cheap as chips car... I have a 95% complete N15 Pulsar Import Rally Car in the shed that owes me $40K, including $7K worth of suspension that has hardly turned a wheel in anger 'cause I can't afford it anymore... just don't have the time or cash for real motorsport anymore...

The Skyline is by necessity a play and forget type of thing, I get annoyed when I have to take it off my mates trailer in between events... and when I had to put new water in the radiator when I holed it... I mean water is like 1c a litre these days ;) ...

That said, once I get the current build up running, I have some KYB Fronts and Rears, Selby Springs and Selby Sway Bars to insert... That should be good enough for the purpose of maximum sideways and fun...

I'll send you a PM now I have enough posts to my name...

On a more technical note, one of the cars, that is destined to become the primary hack, had a blown head gasket. I had one of my heads overhauled (not sure what model, kidney shaped combustion chamber, small valves, FI ports (E88 rings a bell)... I ported it a little and matched it myself for free... I stripped off all of the polution gear and water heating for the manifolds/TB that I could see...

I now have two problems, I can get the car to start, it has fuel and spark, but nothing I do to the throttle has any effect... I changed the AFM and TPS with no effect... the car was running until the head came off, and I am a bit lost for ideas...

it is also pissing water out of either the head/block joint or Inlet Manifold/Head joint (where I don't think there are any water galleries). I am thinking perhaps one of the manifold studs/bolts has penetrated the water gallery in the head. I don't want to pull that apart until after I get the car running so I can transport it...

You guys will also be proud of me, my ex-codriver ended up buying himself an MR30 after seeing the fun we had in mine... this is a guy that already owns 1 zed shell. 1 Zed rally Car, a Moke competition car, and a Copper S...

He is as stupid as me, so the first thing he did was scour eBay for an enormous rear spoiler... his car... I can't find any photos of my ones...

Practicalmasterpiece21001.jpg

Practicalmasterpiece21002.jpg

Cheers,

Daewoo

have you cut the exhaust off yet, and pulled out the air box? otherwise crank the timing and run premium

The best bang for buck mod on a stock motor bar none, not so easy with EFI tho.

These are my play things......with above mods and C.I.G locker

This is the exhaust manifold after some spirited driving

Image176.jpg

Sent you a PM

Thanks Dennis,

I only need one more post after this and I can reply... I am sure there is a reason for that rule, but it is a bit of a PITA...

Brief aboot me...

I won the under 2L 2WD class in the NSW Rally Championship back in 97 in a mighty 1600... thought I would import a new car form Japan, build it, and go really fast with lots of sponsorship... as my financial commitments grew (house, wife, 3 kids), and the cost of rallying grew exponentially, my desire/capability to throw more money at that car has gone in the opposite direction... it now sits 95% complete in a mates shed... not worth selling, not worth finishing...

I bought a White MR30 Sedatch Auto from a mate for $400... it has been crashed in the front NS corner, and I pulled it out with the winch on my Prado... replaced the guard and bonnet, installed a hydraulic handbrake and welded 4.9:1 diff and it became a race car... I can't fit a headlight or grille which prevents me taking it on the track (won't pass the 'clean and presentable criteria)... so I decided to start with a new car rather than fixing that one and further... it is still the Khanacross weapon until the new car is working...

I bought another crashed, Green, manual sedan and clean, green, auto sedatch with a blown headgasket for $500... I striped the sedan of everything I wanted head, EFI, ECU, front and rear KYBs and other stuff and sent it to the scrapper... unfortunately the gearbox in it was screwed (input shaft bearing/housing collapsed and destroyed the front housing)...

The sedatch was pretty good, other than the blown headgasket... which you can read in my other thread I have replaced, but can't get running... I am pretty mechanically minded, but don't know much about the EFI on these engines, and neither do most of my mates...

At the moment I will hold of on a new ECU/Injectors until I get it running and do all of the other work; fit a manual GB (K Box with shortened tailshaft I think), hydraulic handbrake, race seats and harneses out of the Pulsar, lengthened lower control arms, diff out of the white car, strip the interior, swap the suspension with the stuff from the green sedan...

I would really rather do all of that to a Sedan, as I think they look much better, but until then, the Sedatch will suffice, once I get it running, damn thing...

First round of the 2010 Championship is on 20th Feb at Ringwood (Raymond Terrace) so I think the White Sedatch will be called into duty for the first few rounds as I continue to work on the green car...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Thanks Dennis,

I only need one more post after this and I can reply... I am sure there is a reason for that rule, but it is a bit of a PITA...

Brief aboot me...

I won the under 2L 2WD class in the NSW Rally Championship back in 97 in a mighty 1600... thought I would import a new car form Japan, build it, and go really fast with lots of sponsorship... as my financial commitments grew (house, wife, 3 kids), and the cost of rallying grew exponentially, my desire/capability to throw more money at that car has gone in the opposite direction... it now sits 95% complete in a mates shed... not worth selling, not worth finishing...

I bought a White MR30 Sedatch Auto from a mate for $400... it has been crashed in the front NS corner, and I pulled it out with the winch on my Prado... replaced the guard and bonnet, installed a hydraulic handbrake and welded 4.9:1 diff and it became a race car... I can't fit a headlight or grille which prevents me taking it on the track (won't pass the 'clean and presentable criteria)... so I decided to start with a new car rather than fixing that one and further... it is still the Khanacross weapon until the new car is working...

I bought another crashed, Green, manual sedan and clean, green, auto sedatch with a blown headgasket for $500... I striped the sedan of everything I wanted head, EFI, ECU, front and rear KYBs and other stuff and sent it to the scrapper... unfortunately the gearbox in it was screwed (input shaft bearing/housing collapsed and destroyed the front housing)...

The sedatch was pretty good, other than the blown headgasket... which you can read in my other thread I have replaced, but can't get running... I am pretty mechanically minded, but don't know much about the EFI on these engines, and neither do most of my mates...

At the moment I will hold of on a new ECU/Injectors until I get it running and do all of the other work; fit a manual GB (K Box with shortened tailshaft I think), hydraulic handbrake, race seats and harneses out of the Pulsar, lengthened lower control arms, diff out of the white car, strip the interior, swap the suspension with the stuff from the green sedan...

I would really rather do all of that to a Sedan, as I think they look much better, but until then, the Sedatch will suffice, once I get it running, damn thing...

First round of the 2010 Championship is on 20th Feb at Ringwood (Raymond Terrace) so I think the White Sedatch will be called into duty for the first few rounds as I continue to work on the green car...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Daewoo,

Just get onto the SAU site, pick any thread and say something stupid like "keep it up" or "nice idea" or "great work" you must know the drift, do anything on any thread that makes the numbers you need, coz thats what everyone else does to get up the right numbers.

There are people on this SAU forum that must walk around with a keyboard up their ass, because when crunching the numbers they have an average of 70~100 posts per day for the length of their time since joining.

It's these people that I have zero tolerance for, the multi tasking keyboard kings & queens.

Cheers, D

It's these people that I have zero tolerance for, the multi tasking keyboard kings & queens.

Cheers, D

Actually, this forum doesn't seem to be as bad as the Pulsar forum I was on, where every other post was about how "the cops" or "some bastard" tailgated the member and "forced" them to speed, and now they have been busted and are going to loose their license...

That's 10!!!

Edited by Daewoo

After some careful consideration, I would be looking at 2 things for lack of throttle response.

1. AFM &

2. ECU.

As careful as one can possibly be, I'm guessing something has touched and shorted out or the AFM butterfly or sensor isn't working.

It starts, so the ECU is telling the motor to work, but it isn't telling it to accelerate? A sensor isn't working as it should. Maybe there is a wire/plug off, or a vacuum line not connected.

That's all I can think of.

Cheers, D

great to see....and mate and I did a couple of season shitbox racing in the state motorkhana champs but the khanacross sounds even better.

can you post up when the rounds are on - I'll try and check one out :thumbsup:

can you post up when the rounds are on - I'll try and check one out :)

Well, as best as I can find out, the calendar is as below.

20/02/2010, Hampton (Near Oberon), NSW

21/03/2010 Ringwood, (Near Raymond Terrace) NSW

30/05/2010 Ringwood, (Near Toronto) NSW

27/06/2010 Awaba, NSW

01/08/2010 Awaba, NSW

9/09/2010 Awaba, NSW

24/10/2010 Ansell park, (Richmond) NSW

Of course I live in Southern Sydney, so this means 5 trips from here North... great :banana:

Daewoo

  • 2 weeks later...

I have noted here that Daewoo has not had the courage to post why he had no throttle response in his Skyline...

I won't let any secrets out, other than to say that after pulling the manifold back off he "discovered " the problem...

When he gets back from NZ he may reply...

That photo of the sedan with the fully sick wing is my pride and joy.

Buggsy.

I dare you guys not to laugh when you read what the problem ended up being... I dare you...

The cars are at a mates place, and he has a lot of trouble with wasps making their mud nests in every available hole... so he had jammed a black spray paint can lid into the pipe from the AFM to the TB... right in the middle where the pipe bent... to stop wasps nesting in the inlet manifold blush.gif

so the car now runs (very badly but runs)...

Next problem tho... this car was supposed to be fine other than a blown headgasket... so I have now changed the head gasket and oil and filter, and the oil is again just as white as before I started... head is torqued correctly, so I don't think it will be a gasket (didn't really check that the block was flat I guess)... anywhere else where wet stuff often mixes with black stuff to become white stuff???

Cheers,

Daewoo

Yeah he did.

bet he felt silly :)

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