Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Has Low Oil Pressure

jdude

By jdude,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jdude Newbie

jdude

Posted
Posted

My first post! after months of just reading and browsing around...

well, my hr32 has really low oil pressure once the engine gets warm...

the oil pressure is okay (around 2 to 3 kg per cc) once i start my car and the engine is still cold. but once it gets warm, it drops really low on idle (around 300 to 500 grams per cc, but the warning light doesn't come on though)... when i rev the engine, goes up to around 1 kg/cc...

anyway, i checked my oil level, and it's normal... what could be the problem? any ideas?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302296-r32-has-low-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites
Hydroxinol Enthusiast

Hydroxinol

Posted
Posted (edited)
i use 20w-50... the gauge says kg/cm3 (3 is superscript)... what are kays?

Rofl I think he means Kilometres? :)

What are you using to determine your oil pressure? The standard in-dash oil pressure indicator in the R32's is notorious for playing up. Before I installed an aftermarket gauge + sender, my in-dash oil pressure gauge was telling me that I had almost 0kg/cm3 while stationary at lights.

If the car sounds + runs normal I think that it would be ok. Try installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge + sender for a more accurate reading.

Edited by Hydroxinol
jdude Newbie

jdude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Rofl I think he means Kilometres? :)

What are you using to determine your oil pressure? The standard in-dash oil pressure indicator in the R32's is notorious for playing up. Before I installed an aftermarket gauge + sender, my in-dash oil pressure gauge was telling me that I had almost 0kg/cm3 while stationary at lights.

If the car sounds + runs normal I think that it would be ok. Try installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge + sender for a more accurate reading.

oh, ok... it has 140,000 km... i think it runs normal, but it does sound like it's breathing sometimes on idle... rpm idle goes up and down...

i am using my indash gauge to determine the oil pressure... if the gauge is the one that's messed up, are r32;s also known for messed up rpm gauges? :) mine just wants to work whenever it wants to...

  • 2 weeks later...
Beacher1B0 Apprentice

Beacher1B0

Posted
Posted
oh, ok... it has 140,000 km... i think it runs normal, but it does sound like it's breathing sometimes on idle... rpm idle goes up and down...

i am using my indash gauge to determine the oil pressure... if the gauge is the one that's messed up, are r32;s also known for messed up rpm gauges? :laugh: mine just wants to work whenever it wants to...

Your Idle hunting(up and down) is caused by something other than Oil pressure(TPS most likely).

The Oil pressure guage itself tend to be OK, its the Oil Pressure Sending Unit(Sensor) than pooches out on us. Its located right below/beside the Oil filter. Replace the sensor and the guage will work.

And if your RPM guage is working now and then, something is just loose or mildly broken and fixable. I havent had to screw around with my Guage cluster so I cant really help.

  • 1 year later...
Rust123 Rookie

Rust123

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I don't know if this is a similar problem. I bought a R32 GTS a couple of weeks ago. I didn't get to drive it much because I went on holiday a couple of days after i bought it.

THe problem I'm having is that the car sometimes cuts off when I break to slow down (for lights or when i pull into my drive way). When I first bought the car, there was no oil in it and I had the same problem then. So I put in 10W-40 oil in it. Right now it says its in between the high and low level in the gauge thing. When I drive, the stock oil gauge fluctuates around 4 kg/cm^3. Just before the engine cuts, it goes down to about 1 then cuts off. THe car has 170 ks milage on it.

Can someone please advice.

Thanks.

Rusty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...