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R33 N/A and R32 GTR are the only ones homologated for gravel rally in australia, so not too many people wanting to spend $30k+ to build a rally car that doesn't qualify for points in anything. GTR will have to run the silly turbo restrictors which would make it slower than a standard Hyundai Excel in the forest

There's a guy up north (Townsville I think) who runs his Skyline in gravel events, and a guy in NZ who has a gravel only RB20DE R32 Skyline. These are the only ones I know of.

I'm half serious about building a gravel spec R32 GTSt, but have to come to terms with the notion of spending that kind of money on a white elephant that I can't contest any championships with, when for less $$ I could buy an outright competitive Evorex.

Still, when I finish with the Skyline I could always try to sell it to the drift boyz or tar babies.

Edit: If you go GTR you'll struggle to get 15" rims to fit over the brakes (16" rally tyres are rare as hens teeth). NA R33 would probably be the go, but again why bother when a 240k or RX7 will have much better power to weight ratio

Edited by warps

yes prob not ideal but i have just got a r33 gts4 and we have a class of racing in sa called

dirt circuit check out club level motorsport in s.a forum if you want to check it out

short sprint type racing 6 ,10,20 lap races on a 1200, 1400m dirt track a few different classes from stock to open wheelers

theres about 8 tracks within s.a so if your keen you could be racing each weekend

does look a bit agricultral compared to say a targa tas event but hey we are racing, pair of overalls, helmet,cage some extra bar work hope the srutineer passes the car and your off. some of the tracks your hitting over 100mph round corners so theres still a fair bit of skill driving

i am just chasing info on whats a good set up to start with and if anyone had gone down the skyline dirt route before

after a bit of reading here i think the first choice is the torque split controller and then just see how it handles then some suspension bits

cheers for replies

ps this prob should be in motor sport my mistake

Edited by gt4dirtcircut
yes prob not ideal but i have just got a r33 gts4 and we have a class of racing in sa called

dirt circuit check out club level motorsport in s.a forum if you want to check it out

short sprint type racing 6 ,10,20 lap races on a 1200, 1400m dirt track a few different classes from stock to open wheelers

theres about 8 tracks within s.a so if your keen you could be racing each weekend

does look a bit agricultral compared to say a targa tas event but hey we are racing, pair of overalls, helmet,cage some extra bar work hope the srutineer passes the car and your off. some of the tracks your hitting over 100mph round corners so theres still a fair bit of skill driving

i am just chasing info on whats a good set up to start with and if anyone had gone down the skyline dirt route before

after a bit of reading here i think the first choice is the torque split controller and then just see how it handles then some suspension bits

cheers for replies

ps this prob should be in motor sport my mistake

GTS4 - that's N/A No? That's not too bad - you can strip it out and get it as light as possible, without going under any weight limits (weight limit for a 2.5L is pretty light). You can also fit 15" rims over the brakes too, can't you? Good for getting rally tyres on the car (if your class lets you run them)

If you have a race series you can compete in, and you can prep the car fairly cheaply (ie not a full rally car build) then why not go for it? Always good to see something different competing in gravel events. I was convinced I'd build a Silvia next, but it seems every second person I talk to is building, has built or will build for their next car a Silvia. They're a great gravel rally car, but so was (is) the 1600, and I'm sick of the sight of them.

As far as setup goes, keep it soft compared to any tarmace based events. In fact, stock springs and harder shocks works a treat (specially in the back of RWD rally cars). Of course, I have zero experience setting up AWD rally cars, so can't really offer anything concrete.

n/a gts4 yes have got a stagea rb25 coming a bit later but for now just go with the n/a for now till something lets go. i have a stock 33 turbo set up for it but not sure on that as no oil squirters for the pistons i think there are there but blanked off

then again reading the n/a section they are saying its a good thing keeping boost down but not sure if it would deal with a racing situation

anyways car is nearly stripped out just the wiring is a bit daunting as coming from pretty early stuff

one of our scruitineering probs is we do a rolling brake test and brakes must lock the wheels so have to take off the abs doesnt look that bad tho just t the front brakes and run them back to booster

there are a few awd out there and they are just about lapping 2wd cars so should be a bit of fun

with suspension have been reading droping the front slightly might work and like the idea of keeping the soft springs just going for a stiffer struts saying that tho some of the tracks

we are smoking the tyres by the end of the day the tracks rubber up quite abit

I've run at Willowbank autocross track a few times on road tyres, and it's the same in that the track packs down throughout the day and gets more and more like bitumen. The guys on R spec rubber are usually the quickest by the end of the day.

I had my stock Forester XT out there a couple of years ago (complete with 60,000km old Geolanders :P ), and it was setting fastest time of the day early on while the track was still slippery. By the end of the day quite a few of the 2WD specials were beating me as they had much more cornering grip, and the AWD advantage wasn't so great on the grippy track.

there are a number of R30s out there, but i've never known of an R32 up.

Traditionally sports cars make crap rally cars, because getting ground clearance screws up the geometry and chassis dynamics.

Also there have been lots of rule changes that make old dinosaur 1600s far more competitive than they deserve. 2.4L motors etc. When I won the 2L 2WD class in 97 in a budget 1600, 2nd was a 60K Gemini.

I think an RB powered R30 would be a good thing for rally sprints where there are more open rules.

Cheers,

Daewoo

Note that Homologation only applies to cars homologated under the International FIA rules, outside of that, Australia has a class called Production Rally Cars, which most cars here run under... but to be eligible to run as PRC, the car must be a 4 door touring car, with a few cars that have been granted exemptions (RX7, 240Z)...

The only remotely successful big PRC car are the VB-VK Comodes... none of the bigger Dunnydores or Falcorns have been competitive...

I would stronglys suggest before you build a car you think about what you would like to race in, and then check out the rules... A mate built a VL Commodore only to find that the rules change for pre and post '86 cars, and his car was mostly ineligible...

About the tyres, I don't think anyone makes 15inch gravel tyres... the issue is that there is a rule which sets the maximum outer diameter of the tyres... (the bigger the OD of the tyre, the better it handles rough roads, so they have to limit it through the rules)... to have sufficient sidewall, they can only do that in a 15inch case... all of the GT4s have smaller brakes than standard to fit them under 15inch wheels, but then when you put $2000 calipers over $2000 rotors and use $1200 pads, the size isn't as important...

Cheers,

Daewoo

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