Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

About to purchase a V35 but the Pop-up LCD sticks when you try to raise the screen.

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and was it a major job to finish.

I know its not a biggy especially as I won't have the LCD operational for a little while but everything else on this car I like and if I can fix this issue easily, I would like to make the purchase :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302363-pop-up-lcd-sticks-when-opening/
Share on other sites

depends where it sticks. there are two giudes at the base of it and a decent spring. if the spring is stuffed then you get part of the problem. guides are greased and if there is crap on them you also get that probelm. getting the thing out to check is a bitch.

depends where it sticks. there are two giudes at the base of it and a decent spring. if the spring is stuffed then you get part of the problem. guides are greased and if there is crap on them you also get that probelm. getting the thing out to check is a bitch.

Hi Chris,

As per our phone conversation here are the 2 links of 2 cars I am interested in :-

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...35&trecs=36

The link above is the 2001 model which the LCD sticks and you need to tap the side of the unit to get the LCD up.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...35&trecs=36

The link above is the 2004 which I am unsure if it has the LCD screen at all, also I am unsure if it is the 4 or 5 speed.

Let me know what you think ?

Thanks

Hi Chris,

As per our phone conversation here are the 2 links of 2 cars I am interested in :-

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...35&trecs=36

The link above is the 2001 model which the LCD sticks and you need to tap the side of the unit to get the LCD up.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...35&trecs=36

The link above is the 2004 which I am unsure if it has the LCD screen at all, also I am unsure if it is the 4 or 5 speed.

Let me know what you think ?

Thanks

Also there is this one , I am really excited about this one as its from a dealer 'Kamakaze Motors'

http://firesport.com.au/2001-v35-skyline-c...s--ad142733.htm

1st car - I have a navi box for that one IN ENGLISH!

std interior - good idea. did that exact car about 3 weeks back now- car was from MLB as well.

electrical issues are as I mentioned. radio being the key item.

2nd car:

better from a modifiers standpoint. no dicking around with audio - rip that out and go again - radio only. to be honest toss a all in one barand name piece in there and you are done.

externally - better car.

3rd car:

NO!

if I cannot see a decent shot of that thing then that tells me something is hiding.

if you DO inspect that one - check the seatbelt dates. if they all match great. if not - walk away.

I haev see those with full frontal hits and you would not have picked it.

Damn, I didn't read your post Chris and put a $250 deposit on the 3rd Subject to a RACV and Finance. So I didn't check the seatbelts I bought it from a dude called Shui @ the former Kamakazi Motors. I will post some pics soon as I get damn bluetooth working. It seemed what I was looking for at the more right price... :blush:

last time I did this it was with a scan tool and a customer with a $38k cheque in his hand. even with photos at hand I still tore a certain black coupe to shreds with paint,belts and undercarrage damage. I think you get the gist. get hte thing UP on a hoist, inspect EVERY inch of it and look at teh seams. also take your favorite fridge magnet with you as you will need it. get a totally UNBIASED report on it. as a marker I know of a car here in brissy (blue coupe) that has the entire passenger side done and externally you wouldnt pick it. I didnt until I did the audio in it and found the cut/pick marks onthe inner shell.

key point - inspect the hell out of it. granted its not a $100k car but its still a deecent whack of $$ to lose.

that side of things is up to you. I'm offering an opinion based on previous cars I have seen/worked on. there are others on this forum that know a lot more than me on them only they tend to post a lot less than I do.

hence my comment. I dare say when you look at the paint (and being black it will be VERY obvious) that you will see different shades as well. if you are lucky you will see the overspray as well. also look under the seats for the airbag harnesses that are bypassed (assuming it did the bags or the pretensioners.) as well. there are a LOT of little things on these that get stuffed up when you crack them into something so be wary on that.

If you can find out it's history and it's only a small bump. Why not.

But if it has taken a big hit then there could be all storts of nasty surprises.

If you heart is set on this car then spend the money and get a pro to look at it. If your unsure, keep looking for that prefect V35 it maybe the very next car you look at :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...