Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I need some help diagnosing a problem with my R32 GTS-t. Recently it has become dodgy at starting and is becoming progressively worse. When I turn the key it kinda stutters and cranks a bit then stops and then is about to start and then doesnt but after maybe up to 10 secs it will crank over and start. Sometimes it barely does it and sometimes like to today it was really bad. Does anyone have an idea of where to start? First thought went to battery but if that was bad, wouldnt it have died by now, it has been going on for two weeks. Other ideas are starter motor, coilpacks, something else?

Also, probably related, engine almost stalls when I pull up to a stop and have the a/c on fan speed 3 or 4.

Any help would be appreciated.

Edited by levizzle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302395-engine-hard-to-start/
Share on other sites

Ok I need some help diagnosing a problem with my R32 GTS-t. Recently it has become dodgy at starting and is becoming progressively worse. When I turn the key it kinda stutters and cranks a bit then stops and then is about to start and then doesnt but after maybe up to 10 secs it will crank over and start. Sometimes it barely does it and sometimes like to today it was really bad. Does anyone have an idea of where to start? First thought went to battery but if that was bad, wouldnt it have died by now, it has been going on for two weeks. Other ideas are starter motor, coilpacks, something else?

Also, probably related, engine almost stalls when I pull up to a stop and have the a/c on fan speed 3 or 4.

Any help would be appreciated.

I'd check fuel pressure with a gauge as i had a broken fuel pressure regulator that didnt hold pressure when the pump primed. this caused the car to only start if i cranked it for 10 or so times.

i quick test is to clamp the return line and try to start the car, see if it starts straight away

Which one is return, I am guessing the two black pipes coming from near the front of the extractors are the fuel lines. There is a top most one and lower one, which would be the return?

Which one is return, I am guessing the two black pipes coming from near the front of the extractors are the fuel lines. There is a top most one and lower one, which would be the return?

the return is the one without the fuel filter attached. so its after the rail and fuel pressure regulator

Thanks, havent tried it yet, as i just tested starting it up again and it started fine without doing a thing. Its weird because this morning it sounded the worst its been and just now it seemed almost ok.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have replaced oil and spark plugs just as regular maintenance because it was due. I also cleaned the battery terminals incase that was a problem. This all seemed to help a bit, but it still has its occassional fit. When it decides to be hard to start, it sounds kinda like a rattling, is this a problem or is it the motor just trying to crank. The battery is one of those non-serviceable batteries and it just has a green indicator to show if its ok and its changes red if it needs replacing apparently. Its still green, but could I test if it was the battery by connecting another car by jumper leads and then trying to start?

By now you may well have flooded the engine. Try starting with WOT - this allows lots of air to help ignite the fuel lying around in the cylinders.

That doesn't address the root cause, though. I would start by getting the injectors professionally cleaned.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well i cleaned the aac valve which has helped some of my other issues and I noticed the engine starts a bit easier now. I dont know how long this will last but it seems to have helped at least. Seriously every skyline owner should clean their aac valve, it seems to fix alot of problems :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...