R33 Clutch Engagement Points

[quarkgun]

Hey Guys,

Got a problem with my clutch, and i'm trying to figure out what to do with it.

The engagement point on the clutch pedal is so high, i just need to put a little pressure on the pedal (say push it 1-2cms) to change gears... in fact, sometimes (under extremely light/no engine load) it will just pop out of gear all by itself.

I've been searching all over the place but can't find an answer on what to do; the things i'm considering are:

1. Adjust the clutch pedal (cant find confirmation that you can do this in an r33 gtst and if so, how it's done)

2. Bleed the clutch system (still haven't found a good tutorial on this either)

3. Replace the clutch. (obviously the most costly option)

The clutch doesn't really slip under load (it has flared out once or twice, but it's not common), so i wouldnt have thought it's time for a new clutch, leaving me hoping that it's something simple to fix.

any suggestions on what the problem & solution could be?

Thanks

[quarkgun]

Anyone?

[blind_elk]

It won't be a problem that requires bleeding of the system. In that scenario, the pedal would be too low.

Check the adjustment of the pushrod on the pedal. From memory, there should be about 2cm movement of the pedal before the system starts to work.

[quarkgun]

Hey mate, thanks

Quick question though: how do i "Check the adjustment of the pushrod on the pedal"?

[mad082]

to check it you have to contort yourself into a position where you are laying on your back looking up at pedals and the underside of the dash. then just look for where an adjustable rod comes out of the firewall and bolts to the clutch pedal.

i can't remember the exact setup so i don't know which way you have to adjust the rod to loosen it. the easiest way to tell is to see what direction the rod moves when you push on the pedal. if when you push on the pedal the rod moves in the same direction as the pedal then to get moe play you want the rod to come back towards the drivers seat.

i just remembered something else i was going to add. if it is something that has been slowly getting worse then there is a very small chance the the cluth fork pivot bolt is undoing itselt as this will alter the pivot point. if this is the case then it could snap at any time. be worth checking this. it can be done by lying under the car on the drivers side and looking through the hole in the rubber boot that the clutch fork goes through into the bell housing.

[quarkgun]

Thanks mate, will try that tonight

[quarkgun]

Update: Managed to wedge myself under the pedals last night. That has to be one of the most uncomfortable positions to do something in ever!. It ended up making me feel sick, but was able to adjust the clutch as required. Thanks

[mad082]

i have gotten down there and needed help getting back up before, LOL

[bozodos]

lol taking the drivers seat out helps a LOT

[quarkgun]

Yes, after that experience i vowed to myself that if i ever need to do that again, I will be pulling that seat out. I don't care how long it takes.

[J'son]

This thread half answers one of my questions. I already knew how to adjust the slack on the clutch pedal, but how do I adjust the clutch so the engagement point is closer to the floor? I don't like that the clutch needs to lift so high before it engages.

It was an easy fix on my SSS Pulsar, because it didn't use a hydrolic clutch.

EDIT: From what I understand there are adjusters for the MC under the dash, gonna have a look later.

Edited November 4, 2010 by J'son

[J'son]

After taking a look, it was all easy enough. Found the MC, loosened the locknut, adjusted (had to use long nose pliers..), tested (repeat) - re-tighten lock nut. Then adjusted the pedal position bolt (with sensor), and all is good.

Prob got a little more free play at the top than it should, but the pedal adjuster one didn't go any further, and I needed to insure the sense button was being pressed (what it does I'm not actually sure).

However doing the adjustment etc was easy enough.