Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had been thinking about selling my R32 for a while now since I got it 6 years ago. Due to work committment I never got around to doing anything to it and its been sitting in the garage most of the time as I had 2 other cars. Now I just have the R32. Its a great car but I've always wanted an R34 which I should have gotten back then in Japan had I known that the Aussie prices would be so inflated.

Now I'm considering to get a new car like an HSV or an SUV which I hope to keep for another 10 years. I know Commodores will probably be dated pretty quickly given their reputations but the new ones look great this time. The other option I was looking at was the new Audi Q5. Anyway these will probably cost $50k to $60k brand new, if I trade in the GTR I may only get $10k out of it if that. I will get a new car but not a necessarily a better performance one.

So I considered the R34 GTR but the prices are still too high which left me wondering, why has the R32 dropped so much in value? Both are equally aging and I know condition can be a factor.

If the R32 is going to drop so much in prices to $8000 then I'd rather keep it than swap for a 180sx, tarago, taxi cab or commodore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302456-is-the-r32-gtr-losing-its-gloss/
Share on other sites

a few reasons, age, availability, cost of other models such as the R34 becoming cheaper too

but also be sure to note that i think 2 years ago the 1989 import rule (forget what it is currently) meant that BNR32 could be imported under SEVS

this meant heaps more cars could come in via grey imports - thus the market got swamped, and heaps were for sale, so the price drops

as theres an oversupply, a buyer can choose price, features, mods, wheels etc and get exactly what he wants

the r32 is still the original "banned" godzilla in australia

it really needs a good set of wheels with good offset

a nice wing / good colour and some basic mods

dont forget the car is based on 1989 technology yet it has

computer controller all wheel drive

intercooled twin turbo

individual throttle bodies

a genuine 'Clean' example of an R32 GTR will always hold its value.

it just happens to be that there are alot of trashed ones out there for sale which makes people think their all worth that small price.

and people that will sell for sweet fark all for quick cash

so then people start to expect lower prices to

Im pretty sure a neat, good condition R32 GTR with nice mods will always be tasty!!!

I still look at them and think they are the best value for money, provided you get a good one. After owning 3 R32 GTR Im pretty sure I havent seen my last one:)

well considering it was a supercar in its day, I think in another 4 years it will be considered a classic car, and there will not be too many original examples going around, I think it may be a car that will be in demand. It like the old xy gt's, monaroes etc etc, Any car that one at bathurst will sure to increase in value once it hits 25 to 30 years old. I think hold onto it restore in to mint original condition and value is sure to increase. just my opinion

the R32 lost it's gloss the minute a 17 year old imported it as a dirt cheap 15 year old import, then thrashed it around while on their P's.

fucked its image

fucked its value

fucked its reputation

fucked it for everyone.

the real prob IMO is that it seems to be the model where the most non gt-r's have fake badges and full bodykits etc.

meh, my car came with a 32GTR front bar, personally i prefer the look of the standard type M bar, i CBF changing it at this point in time. and no badges FTW, they just get nicked anyway.

the R32 lost it's gloss the minute a 17 year old imported it as a dirt cheap 15 year old import, then thrashed it around while on their P's.

f**ked its image

f**ked its value

f**ked its reputation

f**ked it for everyone.

i partly agree, i know people who have repainted them pink, varying shades of puke green, thrashed them untill they went bang, abused pedestrians who told them off for ripping a burnout in their street.

BUT

nothing will ever be as awesome as an R32 GTR. tell me that old school footage of it whipping those v8's doesnt bring a smile to your face.

Thanks for the replies.

Having lived in Japan before the cars on the road there are excellent. I think its mainly because of the shaken that they have to go through. The poor examples can only come from scrap yards which you would probably go for second hand parts.

I have seen the so called excellent conditioned R32s at 2-3 million yen, they've been in showrooms or garages for years. Then you seen those that are a few years and look like in excellent body condition. But in spite of this, nearly all of them have/will suffer a fender bender and scratches at some point. Resprays are inevitable, that's why the Japanese stick to basic colours. Parking can be very tight especially in the city or at Donke Honte and unless your car resembles something completely dressed with with wide spoilers etc (ie. Yakuzas) then most people don't care! I don't care too much about scratches because of this as long as the engine and interior is excellent. You can't help what other people might do to your car on the outside but we can definitely take care of the rest.

I love my R32 but feel that at my age its beginning to feel more toy-like, but hard to give up because there's nothing better for the price.

the R32 lost it's gloss the minute a 17 year old imported it as a dirt cheap 15 year old import, then thrashed it around while on their P's.

fucked its image

fucked its value

fucked its reputation

fucked it for everyone.

I think you will find that the 15yo import rule was changed the year before the 32gtr was able to be imported under it, a few friends were waiting for this time and were pissed off as it meant the 32gtr still had to go through full compliance.

I think you will find that the 15yo import rule was changed the year before the 32gtr was able to be imported under it, a few friends were waiting for this time and were pissed off as it meant the 32gtr still had to go through full compliance.

People who purchased R32 GTRs prior to the rules changing were still able to bring them over under the 15yo rules if I remember correctly.

yeah only 11ty billion 1989 and 1990 R32 GTR's made it in during the 2 year window of opportunity before they changed the laws to pre 1988 only cars. Hell, I bought and sold 2 in that window.

don't get me wrong, I loooove R32 GTR's... they're as pure and tough as a mustang fastback or lambo countach. It just saddens me to see the crap some people do to them because they've become cheap and affordable so its easily accessible to people who aren't purists or fans. For example, atm R34 GTR's are still out of reach to the budgets of the average bogan/muzza, so the only ones you see are stock, or owned by guys who mod them tastefully. Imagine if you could pick one up for $10000 to $12000...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...