Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I drive a 910 bluebird with a standard solid axle rear end in it but use s13 coilovers and strut braces etc. It handles well but could be better. A common mod is converting to a R30 independant rear end. Im keen to do this but i heard the camber is fixed.

Is there any way to give the rear end some camber? a few degrees negative.

Thanks,

G

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302532-camber-on-r30-rear-end/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I drive a 910 bluebird with a standard solid axle rear end in it but use s13 coilovers and strut braces etc. It handles well but could be better. A common mod is converting to a R30 independant rear end. Im keen to do this but i heard the camber is fixed.

Is there any way to give the rear end some camber? a few degrees negative.

Thanks,

G

Your right, just looked at my R30 skyline. There is the arm from the body to wheel hub and it solid, as in no adjustment what so ever. So you'll have to put up with 0negative camber. Unless you could find someone silly enough to cut the arm and weld it back on an angle. Here is a pic i took a few years ago when i forst got my R30..DSC05228.jpg

Your right, just looked at my R30 skyline. There is the arm from the body to wheel hub and it solid, as in no adjustment what so ever. So you'll have to put up with 0negative camber. Unless you could find someone silly enough to cut the arm and weld it back on an angle. Here is a pic i took a few years ago when i forst got my R30..DSC05228.jpg

What if, however, you made up an extention plate from where the A arm bolts on?

There must be some way to make something to allow for a camber adjustment.

(Thanks for the pic mate!)

G

Might I suggest that you don't need to have any static -ve camber. Unlike the solid rear axle, where the camber is fixed, the swinging A-arm has dynamic camber. As you load up the suspension and compress the spring, the suspension goes into -ve camber.

So one way to get some added -ve camber would be to lower the suspension. The only problem then is that the suspension goes toe-out.

What if, however, you made up an extention plate from where the A arm bolts on?

There must be some way to make something to allow for a camber adjustment.

(Thanks for the pic mate!)

G

essentially the same semi-trailing arm setup as Datsun 1600s - they have been doing that since the 70s. Check out Datsport to see what they do with their crossmembers, or you can slot the standard mounts for a little adjustment. You'll find plenty of stuff out there if you google...

1600s used to do it to reduce -ve camber on a lowered car and get the toe back to reasonble levels. R30 geometry is alot better if not excessively lowered, but who knows where it will all sit when its in a Bluebird... but yes, you can make them adjustable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...