Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i know this is a skyline forum but im actually looking at getting rid of my R34 and getting a FTO... just wondering what is the BHP of the tiptronic 34's? As i know the FTO's gpx model has 200bhp..

anyone had any experience with FTO's?? In particular the tiptronic models?? Would the tiptronic FTO beat the tiptronic R34??

Theres a few questions for someone to answer :banana: cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/
Share on other sites

Hey guys, i know this is a skyline forum but im actually looking at getting rid of my R34 and getting a FTO... just wondering what is the BHP of the tiptronic 34's? As i know the FTO's gpx model has 200bhp..

anyone had any experience with FTO's?? In particular the tiptronic models?? Would the tiptronic FTO beat the tiptronic R34??

Theres a few questions for someone to answer :blush: cheers

but your sig says "Skyline FTW Everytime"... soo..?

anyways.. i simply just typed it in google and this is what i got.

Mitsubishi E-DE2A

125 BHP @ 6000 rpm

SOHC 4cyl

Mitsubishi E-DE3A

180 BHP @ 7000

DOHC V6

and..

as the one above but with Mivec is.. 200 BHP @ 7500

hope that helped somewhat?

Nick.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/#findComment-5017660
Share on other sites

ok cool yeah cheers...

does anyone know of anyone that owns/owned one?? or know how reliable the mitsubishi engine is compared to the RB.. cause ive never had a problem with an RB engine.. never had experience with a mitusbishi engine tho?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/#findComment-5018196
Share on other sites

the mitsubishi engines aren't too bad. certainly worse engines out there. your biggest issue won't be with the engine but with CV joints if you give it a hard time. but if you drive it reasonably sensibly then you shouldn't have an issue, although they do eventually wear out on their own.

the skyline will have a bit more torque than the fto, however the fto being a lighter car will help a bit with this. performance wise there would be little in it in a real race and would mostly come down to the drivers. but as people said above, don't just go off power outputs to say which is quicker. factory power outputs are at the flywheel so they don't take into account any drivetrain loss, and don't give you an indication of how the powe comes in and where it is in the rev range. you also have to take into account gearing etc (as said above) plus weight.

for general diving you won't notice the difference between fwd and rwd (despite what a large amount of people who have never driven a fwd think). it's only when you start to push them that you do and even then it comes down to how well the car is designed. i've driven plenty of fwd cars and some are very similar to rwd, others you can feel the front pulling much more. my 113hp pulsar torque steers much much more than my 170hp magna did (which pretty much had zero torque steer). the magna felt a lot like a rwd car to drive, even when pushing it (other than the understeer when booting it half way through a corner, LOL), unlike the pulsar which you can feel the front leading the way.

personally i'd stick with the skyline for various reasons, and none of them are due to me being on a skyline forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/#findComment-5020802
Share on other sites

hmm yeah i been quoted around the 3grand mark.. give or take... i paid $11,800 for mine... im not sure how much the manuals go for also i need the four doors and mine has low k's and i know theres definatley nothing wrong mechanically wise with the car.. i dont really want to get another car and then going on having to fix up things that are wrong with it or something :rofl: im not sure which path to take haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/#findComment-5021168
Share on other sites

Well, can't speak about the r34 but i do own an FTO GPX and a V35.

i can tell you the handling on the FTO would be a lot better in corners as they are great handling cars but to get the power from them you need to keep them above 4500/5500 rpms as that the mivec range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302595-how-many-bhp/#findComment-5024418
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...