Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've come across a few Ebay sellers flogging VL Comode waterpumps as being the same fit as an RB25DET , whats the go ? is the VL pump the same ?

The bucks are hugely different from an OE PUMP--- and I also notice that OE waterpumps are hugely cheaper in the US WTF is that about ?

Here's an example-

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-WATER-PUMP-SUIT...=item3a550ba9a9

Edited by BASHO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302670-water-pump-vl-comodedoor-rb25det/
Share on other sites

The RB30 & RB25 water pumps are very similar but not identical. Pretty much the only difference is the RB25 pump has an elongated (oval) hole at the top with a small bolt in it & the RB30 pump has a round hole in same place. Due to this the hole in the RB30 pump doesnt line up with the thread in the RB25 block...

I personally got around this by drilling a hole & tapping a thread in the RB25 block to line up with the hole in the RB30 pump. No problems & a LOT cheaper than genuine...

There is also slight differences, between brands, of the size & number of fins in the pump.

I originally bought one from R&E Autos which had much larger fins but less of them & returned it to see if I could find one where bolt holes lined up.

I couldnt (apart from Nissan) so went with an eBay item to save some dollars & found the fin design was identical to the factory item.

I dont know if it would have made any difference but was happier with something that more closely represented the original...

The eBay store where I bought my pump is called Car Sales Pty Ltd if you are interested.

The RB30 & RB25 water pumps are very similar but not identical. Pretty much the only difference is the RB25 pump has an elongated (oval) hole at the top with a small bolt in it & the RB30 pump has a round hole in same place. Due to this the hole in the RB30 pump doesnt line up with the thread in the RB25 block...I personally got around this by drilling a hole & tapping a thread in the RB25 block to line up with the hole in the RB30 pump. No problems & a LOT cheaper than genuine...

There is also slight differences, between brands, of the size & number of fins in the pump.

I originally bought one from R&E Autos which had much larger fins but less of them & returned it to see if I could find one where bolt holes lined up.

I couldnt (apart from Nissan) so went with an eBay item to save some dollars & found the fin design was identical to the factory item.

I dont know if it would have made any difference but was happier with something that more closely represented the original...

The eBay store where I bought my pump is called Car Sales Pty Ltd if you are interested.

Thanks for that, most helpfull , I had a quick look on Fleebay but couldn't find Car Sales Pty Ltd I'll have another look, I'm also going to see what shipping costs from the US I cant believe that the US price of an OE pump is US$79.95 and Nissan want AUS$290.00 for the same thing even if postage is AUS$75.00 I'll still be a AUS$100 better off.

Nissan= :)

The other thing with the VL pump is if you dont put that last bolt in i hear from people that it eventually leaks from that point.

I got my compete cambelt/waterpump kit with tensioners and the works for under $300 from BnT. Clearly not OEM Nissan, but looks identical in every way.

The other thing with the VL pump is if you dont put that last bolt in i hear from people that it eventually leaks from that point.

I got my compete cambelt/waterpump kit with tensioners and the works for under $300 from BnT. Clearly not OEM Nissan, but looks identical in every way.

Thanks for that, sorry for the ignorance , but who are BnT ? :P

That hole needs pressure on it to avoid coolant leaking out. Thats why I took my RB30 pump back (asked for a RB25...) and got my mate to get me one from Nissan. Cant remember how much it was, but it was less then trade price... :rofl:

fitted many rb30 pumps to rb25. Top 10mm bolt hole wont line, As stated above most people just squeeze some silicon in the hole which isnt that necessary just extra precaution, Never had one leak, On my cars I elongate the housing with a drill to make it match. It depends on whos doing the job, theyre knowledge and whether ther want to pay 3 times as much for a genuine. I use the rb30 pump

  • 4 months later...

I've got one and have another one on order for my R33 [its getting noisy again]. Only problem is I don't think they last quite as long, but since they are sub $50 with a gasket and stud set you can't go too wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...