Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Just wanting to get a few opinions on a few things.

I own a r33 Series 2 Gts-t Skyline.

i have no problem with over heating when on the move because getting good air circulation.

the problem is when iam just putting around town or in traffic..

Now it only seems to get xtreamly hot when putting around town with the ac on, the ac evaporator sits between the thermal fan and the radiator. On the highway the temp is fine and the ac works great.

With the ac off it works even better.. and getting around town with the windows down and no ac is just silly.

Would putting in a second thermal fan make much difference or do i just need a better coolent ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/
Share on other sites

What have u checked, have u done any work on car recently

Would putting in a second thermal fan make much difference or do i just need a better coolent ? band aid

Does ur thermo fan even kick in, if so id try coolant flush

How long ago was the water pump done, impeller could rusted away

Edited by Dorifta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5019716
Share on other sites

I cant quite tell from your description, but do you have the factory clutch fan still on the car? Or an aftermarket electric one?

If you have an electric one, throw it away, and put the standard one back in place with the shroud.

Its really hard to make electric ones work properly, there are many threads around with issues regarding thermo setups. Most of them go back to stock because its not worth the hassle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5020103
Share on other sites

i'd also check the thermostat. i've had similar issues in the past and found it to be the thermostat (but have also had another issue caused by a dodgy fan). the fact that it runs fine when going faster indicates 2 things to me, 1: the fan is dodgy, or 2: the thermostat is dodgy and restricting flow and the fan alone simply can't pump enough air to overcome the heat soak in the engine bay and also can't get enough air through the radiator to get all of the extra heat out of the radiator.

the best way to tell if the thermostat is the issue is by how long the car takes to warm up. with a working thermostat the car should be up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (not just sitting there letting it idle for 5 mins). if the car takes much longer than that, or the needle doesn't make it to the halfway mark, or sits lower than halfway when on the highway with the aircon off then the thermostat is the issue as it isn't opening when it should and isn't closing when it should.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5020950
Share on other sites

overheating at low speeds is usally caused by four things

Fans (bad clutch on mechanicals, lots with thermos. don't forget the shroud, its ugly but important

water pump loosing preasure

blocked radiator, you can try a flush in a bottle, they work soso, but a pro like natrad is better ( also bent fins on the core, they slow the air flow)

finally the old thermostat, they are usually cheep so just change em

if your motor has done a head gasket or similar in the past the water galleries in the block and such could also be a bit blocked, a flush take care of em

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5024257
Share on other sites

another way to check thermostat is take it out and put it in boiling water and see if it opens

it doesn't always show the problem vey well though. i've done the boiling water test before and it seemed fine, but once i put in the new thermostat it solved the issue

If temp goes north sitting in traffic & at the lights, the fan clutch is suss; likewise, the temp goes down when you're on the move.

it depends on how low the temp goes. if the temp only goes to normal when driving faster then it's likely to be the fan. the 2 cars i've had with thermostat issues would get hot when sitting in traffic, but when on the highway would drop down to about 1/4 temp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5024362
Share on other sites

it doesn't always show the problem vey well though. i've done the boiling water test before and it seemed fine, but once i put in the new thermostat it solved the issue

it depends on how low the temp goes. if the temp only goes to normal when driving faster then it's likely to be the fan. the 2 cars i've had with thermostat issues would get hot when sitting in traffic, but when on the highway would drop down to about 1/4 temp

thanks guys might have to apply a few of these to my tow car which is starting to get hot very quickly when I'm not towing anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302777-overheating/#findComment-5024482
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for ?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for  >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate modern almost all cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
    • Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc?   It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector.   Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.
    • It actually means give it less throttle.
    • Yeah if the goal is to drive something then modifying a car is a bad idea.
    • Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!
×
×
  • Create New...