Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the best engine oil to use for N/A R33 GTS25.

Car has HPR10 in it, not wanting to use a Synthetic oil due to costs.

I know that Penrite is great but just checking if there is a better choice.

Engine has 78 000k's and is all original, oil presure sits on 4 bar cruise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302953-best-oil-to-use-for-na-r33-gts25/
Share on other sites

Turbo or non turbo you should always use a Good Synthetic Oil $50 or $60 dollars.. $10 oil filter and sump plug washer..

Oil is not something you want to cheap out on, and lets face it $70 every 5000km probably 10000km for a non turbo with good oil, is not a lot.

Enjoy. :P

lol jason you know that redline is worth a piece of gold per drop :thumbsup:

Be cool and get all your oils redline then you will never ever have too worry about having bad oil its only about

$200 for engine 7.6L of it.....

lol jason you know that redline is worth a piece of gold per drop :D

Be cool and get all your oils redline then you will never ever have too worry about having bad oil its only about

$200 for engine 7.6L of it.....

ur the one that sniffed it n spilt it!!! hahahahaha! :ermm:

on the other hand, there's no point paying more for oil than you actually need to.

$200 every 5000 kms is gonna add up pretty quick, especially if you're like me and average 25000kms a year.

Anyone using $100+ oil in a n/a rb25 skyline (which I doubt is even worth $10K these days) is just throwing their money away. Sure its gonna be a better oil, but at the end of the day, your car wont break down on the cheaper (synthetic) oil and the engine will more than likely last just as long with any synthetic oil. Remember you dont actually need the "best" - you only need "good enough".

The oil Nissan recommend and use isn't even synthetic, so almost any synthetic oil will be better than whats recommended by Nissan.

Personally I would use a reasonably good synthetic oil around the $50-60 range either mobil1 (if you can find it cheap) or shell helix or castrol edge or something. Then change it every 10,000kms unless you're doing track days or something. If you think thats too long maybe 7500kms but I reckon 5000kms is overkill if you're just driving to work/the shops etc. The car's not even a turbo so it'll have a pretty easy life.

So many people on here recommend spending a small fortune just on regular maintenance items. If our cars really are that good, then why do we need to spend way more than the average joe in his falcodore to get the same amount of kms out of them (usually less)? I can hear the falcodore owners laughing at anyone who thinks his $9000 car needs $200 oil every 5000 kms.

most falcodore owners also look after their cars shamefully. Not to mention the amount that need an engine rebuild at ~200000km. Preventative maintenence is ALWAYS better than corrective.

That said I wouldn't be putting anything better than Castrol Edge in a N/A Skyline.

as i said earlier in the thread, if you are only using it as a daily, there is no point putting expensive oil in as it's just a waste. and at the end of the day, are you still going to own the car in 10 years time? if yes then you could use full synthetic oil, but if you are only going to keep it while you are on your p's, then using something like redline is pointless. sure if you go to track days, etc then use the better oil, but for every day driving, the difference in wear, etc is minimal. and often people running high grade oils are running the sort of viscosity that is good for performance driving but not that great for general driving so are probably doing more harm than good.

The car has been modded to a RB27

Being modded at the moment, going to be modded more. Seeing track days (circuit and drag). Going too keep for as long as it will live as its VERY fuel efficent (and i love skylines) and i can afford a turbo as a track car and use NA for everday. Its convienient for me and i changed all the oils in my car for $650 with redline because i work in the spareparts market so i dont mind, i have to money too spend on it and i know the oil works. The lightweight shockproof is the best thing i have brought for my car so far.

For a everyday NA skyline Nulon 10w-40 fully synthetic is a high market group 3 oil and at under $60 for 5L and being a fully owned aussie product definatly my 2nd choice of oils.

The car has been modded to a RB27

Being modded at the moment, going to be modded more. Seeing track days (circuit and drag). Going too keep for as long as it will live as its VERY fuel efficent (and i love skylines) and i can afford a turbo as a track car and use NA for everday. Its convienient for me and i changed all the oils in my car for $650 with redline because i work in the spareparts market so i dont mind, i have to money too spend on it and i know the oil works. The lightweight shockproof is the best thing i have brought for my car so far.

For a everyday NA skyline Nulon 10w-40 fully synthetic is a high market group 3 oil and at under $60 for 5L and being a fully owned aussie product definatly my 2nd choice of oils.

get it back on the road :P

Turbo or non turbo you should always use a Good Synthetic Oil $50 or $60 dollars.. $10 oil filter and sump plug washer..

Oil is not something you want to cheap out on, and lets face it $70 every 5000km probably 10000km for a non turbo with good oil, is not a lot.

Enjoy. :)

Hi, I am a new member of forum. Would a newcomer be warmly welcome here? Good day you guys!!!

__________________

Movies Online Free

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...