Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not skyline specific - but i'm trying to do a full service on my mrs laser tonight with the brakes requiring a lot of attention. basically the brakes work fine except there is quite a lot of sponge in the top half of the pedal.

i doubt its ever been looked at.

besides getting under there and bleeding at the nipple by getting an accomplice to press when i voice DOWN, lock the nipple and yell up - repeating constantly and toping up the reservoir - is there an easier way to do it at home

a mate of mine had an awesome device which caused a vacume and drew the fluid up a clear hose - but we are no longer friends so my workshop privelages have been revoked :)

any tips will be appreciated or devices to assist/where to find them would be simply awesome!

Edited by 910trx

you can gravity feed the lines. for this you just make sure the master cylinder/resevoir is full with fresh fluid, then starting at the wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder just open the bleed screew and let the fluid run out (via a hose into a bottle/container) until it runs clear (meaning new fluid). then close it off, make sure there is plenty of fluid in the resevoir and move onto the next furtherest away wheel.

this method can be done with only 1 person.

  mad082 said:
i forgot to add to make sure that you have plenty of spare fluid if doing it that way. you could simply just bleed it until any bubbles come out, but you would be best of getting all the old fluid out.

thanks

last time i did a grav bleed was on my old nissan after swapping a master cyl

must have been some air in the system which prevented a bleed as no matter what i would do it would not flow - hence resorting to the "up down method"

guess if there is minimal air in the system - ie replacing old for new may work better than my last attempt.

what about bleed valves (yeah i did a search after posting) any good or just a useless toy?

  bozodos said:
approximately how much fluid would that involve marc? I was under the impression that you needed special tools etc etc lol

to be honest, i wouldn't have a clue how much fluid you would need for a full change. i'm guessing a few bottles though.

as for needing special tools, you may need them for a car with ABS, but if it doesn't then all you need is a spanner to fit the bleed nipple, some tubing that is a snug fit over the bleed nipple and a bottle or container.

i think the other thing is that you have to pump the brakes with the car turned off to get rid of any vaccum pressure from the booster first. it is a slow process even at the best of times though. the method where you pump the brakes is a much quicker method. however i think you could probably speed up the gravity method with the use of a large syringe. this is similar to the method used for bleeding brakes on bikes (push bikes). you could use the syringe to suck fluid out of the caliper, but even with a decent sized syringe it would still take a little while.

A bottle, possibly two.

Did this on a Falcon, we took as much old fluid out as possible (from the top of the master cylinder) with a syringe kind of thing...whatever they're called, put new fluid in and bled it until the different color started coming through....didn't even use one full bottle, but this was for the front brakes only, and the cylinder, lines and calipers would hold a bit more fluid than a Laser.

One bottle, given the size of the car and you don't really need to change the fluid in the rears.

Edited by Nic_A31

if the pedal is spongey try the bleed first

but check the flow of fluid out of each nipple could be leaking wheel cylinder if it has drum rears just pull drum off and pull back rubber if fluid comes out replace cylinders.

if the flow is slower out of l/h/f and r/h/r or r/h/f/ and l/h/r could be a faulty accumulatoer or master cylinder.

i bought a one man bleed kit

what a waste of time that was

instead i pinched one of the hoses off it and crammed it over the nipple, opened it up the nipple and let it drain untill the new fluid came through into an old water bottle.

threw the rest of the kit away

piece of piss!

dunno why grav bleeding never worked on my other car...

but brakes are working great now but i'd suggest to anyone bleeding brakes in the future to just go to bunnings and buy a short piece of clear tube.

yep... thats what we do at the workshop..

nobody has or uses special brake bleeding tools has they are a huge pain to use, very messy (not something you want to be messy with) and usually cause more problems than they solve.

if you are completly changing the fluid, then its easier to crack a line at the master cyl, and drain most of the fluid from there, then pump it through till the colour changes.

but yeh during a service, we would pump the pedal a few times before getting out of the car, and just crack each bleeder until it would run out with a constant stream.

most guys will have a 2L coke bottle, with some wire to hang it up under the car, a hole in the top with some vacuum hose into it..

a handy thing is to have clear hose.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...