Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not skyline specific - but i'm trying to do a full service on my mrs laser tonight with the brakes requiring a lot of attention. basically the brakes work fine except there is quite a lot of sponge in the top half of the pedal.

i doubt its ever been looked at.

besides getting under there and bleeding at the nipple by getting an accomplice to press when i voice DOWN, lock the nipple and yell up - repeating constantly and toping up the reservoir - is there an easier way to do it at home

a mate of mine had an awesome device which caused a vacume and drew the fluid up a clear hose - but we are no longer friends so my workshop privelages have been revoked :)

any tips will be appreciated or devices to assist/where to find them would be simply awesome!

Edited by 910trx

you can gravity feed the lines. for this you just make sure the master cylinder/resevoir is full with fresh fluid, then starting at the wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder just open the bleed screew and let the fluid run out (via a hose into a bottle/container) until it runs clear (meaning new fluid). then close it off, make sure there is plenty of fluid in the resevoir and move onto the next furtherest away wheel.

this method can be done with only 1 person.

i forgot to add to make sure that you have plenty of spare fluid if doing it that way. you could simply just bleed it until any bubbles come out, but you would be best of getting all the old fluid out.

thanks

last time i did a grav bleed was on my old nissan after swapping a master cyl

must have been some air in the system which prevented a bleed as no matter what i would do it would not flow - hence resorting to the "up down method"

guess if there is minimal air in the system - ie replacing old for new may work better than my last attempt.

what about bleed valves (yeah i did a search after posting) any good or just a useless toy?

approximately how much fluid would that involve marc? I was under the impression that you needed special tools etc etc lol

to be honest, i wouldn't have a clue how much fluid you would need for a full change. i'm guessing a few bottles though.

as for needing special tools, you may need them for a car with ABS, but if it doesn't then all you need is a spanner to fit the bleed nipple, some tubing that is a snug fit over the bleed nipple and a bottle or container.

i think the other thing is that you have to pump the brakes with the car turned off to get rid of any vaccum pressure from the booster first. it is a slow process even at the best of times though. the method where you pump the brakes is a much quicker method. however i think you could probably speed up the gravity method with the use of a large syringe. this is similar to the method used for bleeding brakes on bikes (push bikes). you could use the syringe to suck fluid out of the caliper, but even with a decent sized syringe it would still take a little while.

A bottle, possibly two.

Did this on a Falcon, we took as much old fluid out as possible (from the top of the master cylinder) with a syringe kind of thing...whatever they're called, put new fluid in and bled it until the different color started coming through....didn't even use one full bottle, but this was for the front brakes only, and the cylinder, lines and calipers would hold a bit more fluid than a Laser.

One bottle, given the size of the car and you don't really need to change the fluid in the rears.

Edited by Nic_A31

if the pedal is spongey try the bleed first

but check the flow of fluid out of each nipple could be leaking wheel cylinder if it has drum rears just pull drum off and pull back rubber if fluid comes out replace cylinders.

if the flow is slower out of l/h/f and r/h/r or r/h/f/ and l/h/r could be a faulty accumulatoer or master cylinder.

i bought a one man bleed kit

what a waste of time that was

instead i pinched one of the hoses off it and crammed it over the nipple, opened it up the nipple and let it drain untill the new fluid came through into an old water bottle.

threw the rest of the kit away

piece of piss!

dunno why grav bleeding never worked on my other car...

but brakes are working great now but i'd suggest to anyone bleeding brakes in the future to just go to bunnings and buy a short piece of clear tube.

yep... thats what we do at the workshop..

nobody has or uses special brake bleeding tools has they are a huge pain to use, very messy (not something you want to be messy with) and usually cause more problems than they solve.

if you are completly changing the fluid, then its easier to crack a line at the master cyl, and drain most of the fluid from there, then pump it through till the colour changes.

but yeh during a service, we would pump the pedal a few times before getting out of the car, and just crack each bleeder until it would run out with a constant stream.

most guys will have a 2L coke bottle, with some wire to hang it up under the car, a hole in the top with some vacuum hose into it..

a handy thing is to have clear hose.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...