Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 10 15 Row Oil Cooler w/ FULL Oil Filter Relocation Kit




KIT10R_450.jpg


Features:
- Keeps engine components at correct running temperature
- 10 15 row GReddy style oil cooler
- 290x205x50mm with a mega 600cm cooling area (front and sides)
- (-10AN) Male fittings size
- Oil cooler made of aluminium and coated with an anti-corrosive
- Full engine oil filter relocation kit
- Accepts all spin-on M20X1.5 thread size oil filters
- Sandwich plate includes ports for 2 extra gauges
- Comes with all nuts bolts and brackets
- 3 Earls type braided stainless steel flexi oil lines (125, 145 and 165cm)
- Practically a stand alone setup - easy installation!
Has been extensively used on all Nissan RB series engines

$345 including Delivery & Insurance SAU SPECIAL - FREE POSTAGE

BUY_BUTTON.gif

Condition: Brand New

Contact: 0401599023 (anytime) OR [email protected]




CONH.jpgNBB.jpg

OC15R.jpg

CUSTOMER INSTALLS - Send us yours next!
INS_A.jpgINS_B.jpg


INS_C.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What do ppl think about this kit?

Looks alright, may be interested.

Can you get it with a thermostat?

Would also like to know this.

Can you get it with a thermostat?

Hi mate,

Our kit does not come with a thermostat, but some customers do choose to purchase one separately.

- Brendan

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
So is there a new batch in?

Hey mate,

Yes - we just got them in 3 days ago!

If you wanted to order one, we now have them in stock ready for delivery.

- Brendan

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi mate, I have a genuine greddy oil cooler with lines that i bought a while back. Can I purchase the oil filter relocation kit seperately and if so will the braided hoses I have that go to and from my cooler fit the oil filter relocator?

I purchased a cheap relocator and sandwich plate that I put on my new built engine, the sandwich plate blew off the side of the block at 9000rpm and sprayed 10 litres of oil through jpc's dyno room. The thread on the sandwich plate was detroyed, so i want to be sure this wont happen agian.

Cheers

Mark

Hi mate, I have a genuine greddy oil cooler with lines that i bought a while back. Can I purchase the oil filter relocation kit seperately and if so will the braided hoses I have that go to and from my cooler fit the oil filter relocator?

I purchased a cheap relocator and sandwich plate that I put on my new built engine, the sandwich plate blew off the side of the block at 9000rpm and sprayed 10 litres of oil through jpc's dyno room. The thread on the sandwich plate was detroyed, so i want to be sure this wont happen agian.

Cheers

Mark

Hi Mark,

Mate unfortunately at this point in time we do not sell the filter relocation kits separately...

But I must say our oil cooler kits have been used on some big HP set-ups and I have never heard of such damage, sorry to hear about it.

- Brendan

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

AND IT'S HERE!

Brand new batch just in - $345 delivered to your door :D

These are basically a complete stand alone set-up... can be suited to (almost) all engines

  • 3 weeks later...



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
×
×
  • Create New...