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I've owned this car for about 5years, bought basically stock. I have always tried to keep its sleeper character but still give it a unique look. Car is basically ready to go to stage 2 or you can keep it as it is.

The car overall is in excellent condition both interior and exterior, especially for its age. It has been serviced every 5000km with Motul oil. I've included a picture of the cam and valve train system which shows how clean it is

There are 2 cosmetic blemishes - there is a scratch on the drivers side door and there are cracks where the bonnet vent has been added to the bonnet (pictures to come)

Price is negotiable. Whatever stock parts I have will be included. I have other parts that have not been put on yet (HKS cams, Z32 afm, Bride/recaro seat rails, Greddy catch can, Alpine mono sub amp) which will be sold separately. Ask if you are interested in these with purchase of the car.

More pictures available on request and feel free to ask any questions. Not looking for any swaps

Price: $7500 neg

Location: Brisbane

Contact: Via reply, PM or email to lup15 at internode.on.net

Overall details:

- Metallic Black 1991 HNU13

- 5spd manual SR20DET

- Viper alarm system

- 143.3awkw (made before dump, intercooler)

Performance:

- custom dump (ceramic coasted), 3" dump back mild steel mandrel

bent, metalcat, TRUST oval muffler 4" tip

- CAI with stainless intake piping

- A'PEXi Power Intake Pod

- GReddy Profec B Spec 2 EBC

- GReddy Spec V intercooler

- GReddy Type RS plumb back BOV

- Aftermarket radiator with 100% larger core

Suspenision and Handling:

- D2 Racing Coilovers w/ adjustable camber pillow tops

- Rear WHITELINE camber bolts

- Rear whiteline fixed swaybar

- GReddy Front strut brace

- RDA Slotted front and rear rotors

- EBC Greenstuff front and rear pads

- Stainless steel braided front brake lines (ADR approved)

- Black/Red powder coated front and rear brake calipers

- 17" rims

Audio:

- Alpine CDA9831 headunit (with Ipod connection)

- Focal polyglass 165V2 front splits

- Alpine T420 2ch amp

- Pioneer 6" rear 2ways

- OPTIMA D51 Yellowtop Dry Cell Battery

Aesthetics:

- momo leather gearknob

- RAZO RM34 magnesium pedals

- AutoMeter boost gauge

- Stinger battery terminals

- Topstage USV-SR bonnet vent

- Depo Crystal headlights

- Depo Crystal bumper indicators

- Tinting

- nismo smoked side indicators

- Full factory body kit (front lip, side skirts, rear pods) VERY RARE

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

bump. added some options if u want to purchase the car at a lower price. feel free to throw me an offer

update 24/2:

1) The price of the car will be reduced by $1000 if the all of the following is swapped to standard: exhaust, front & side indicators, headlights, front and rear bodykit

2) $500 will be taken off if you want to purchase the car unregistered (although it will come with roadworthy if sold in QLD) but more for the interstate buyers

3) the price can be further negotiated if you want other parts taken off or returned to stock

  • 2 weeks later...

Price reduced, $5990

The current price of $5990 is only if the following is swapped to standard: exhaust, front & side indicators, headlights, front and rear bodykit. If you would like these parts included, it will cost $1000 extra

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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