Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol 300rwkw and a heavy right foot has its drawbacks :D

i get 220km to 3/4 tank, so i'd say 300 to a tank

lol terrible... i have about the same power as you and last tank got 420km.

Before the tune it was doing about 500km per tank, so extra 100kw in the tune and only lost 80km per tank, pretty good.

Averaging 13L/100km over the last 20000kms, track days excluded from calculation.

Babying it day to day though. I can get about 420km per tank before the light comes on. I'm trying my heart out to hit the 500km mark in daily driving without the help of going on long trips via the highway.

Used to get 14-15/100km when I first got the car and it was completely stock except for cat back exhaust. Have to admit that I was in new toy mode though.

Edited by UnCo
lol terrible... i have about the same power as you and last tank got 420km.

Before the tune it was doing about 500km per tank, so extra 100kw in the tune and only lost 80km per tank, pretty good.

yeah mine fails hard cause of stop start driving and the cold start being on for like 50% of the time :D

at my old house it was about the same as yours... and on cruises i get the same as most people with similar power

I get about 400-450 stop start driving.. 500-550 on long trips

cruising around the trip shows around 12L/100KM and cruising on the freeway gets down to about 10 L/100KM

Not to bad for an old RB30E manual :D

Yea... you'd want to get that tune if you're driving a lot. Hahaha. I got 450-500 per tank easy before the tune and after its still 450. But having said that, if I feel like letting it loose a little, it'll drop to 350-400. Still good consumption imo.

Usually between 12.5 to 14.5L/100km

Mods are:

3" turbo back exhuast with high flow CAT

POD

R34 GTT SMIC

Bleed valve set at 10PSI

SAFC-2

Made ~180rwkw when I got it tuned.

Maybe everyone should post up L/100km or km/L instead of full tank. Better way of comparison.

Agreed. Tank is pretty useless because everyone fills up at a different point.

I think going by full tank might be a better representative of the car's overall fuel economy since it will weigh differently when full,1/2 or 1/4 empty.

I am much happier with the consumption I'm getting considering its a GTR though I do miss 500-600km that I got from NA cars.

Nah, not when the term full tank can mean 50 litres or 55 litres!

Best thing to do is fill a tank until full (petrol pump click), reset the trip meter to zero...when the tank is near empty again go fill up at the servo and take note of how many litres it took to fill. Then divide your litres by your km traveled and multiply by 100 for a litres/100km figure.

340awkw i get 200km/tank flat.. no boost..

Shouldnt the car run like a normal car when its not on boost (consumption wise)? That sucks. And thats at 340awkw... I'm curious whats the consumption like for those 1000hp cars... hahaha.

Best thing to do is fill a tank until full (petrol pump click), reset the trip meter to zero...when the tank is near empty again go fill up at the servo and take note of how many litres it took to fill. Then divide your litres by your km traveled and multiply by 100 for a litres/100km figure.

That's what I mean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily. Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150. I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted. I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do. If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.
    • As above, definitely bash it or get it replaced with a high flow unit.
    • get some flares on them, or wider guards haha
    • Another question sorry, what stainless do u use in the turbo external WG plumb back piping? Is it 321, 316 or 304?
    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
×
×
  • Create New...