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R32 Gtr Is Dead When The Key Is Turned

gtronroids

By gtronroids,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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gtronroids Apprentice

gtronroids

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

This morning I went to start the car and this happened:

1. turned the key to accessories and everything was normal.... fuel pump started to prime, shift light flashed, guages did their ceremony dash warning lights all came on.

2. turned the key to start and everything just went dead including the interior light not a noise from the motor just dead silence.

3. turned to key to the off position and tried again......exactly the same thing happened everything primed, lit up then dead silence when performing the last turn off the key

I havent driven the car for nearly 3 weeks. It has brand new plugs, coils, battery. All the fuses are fine.

I am at a lost as to what it could be.

Any suugestions and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Battery is dead - jump it. I bought one of those rechargeable battery packs from Supercheap or whatever as my Skyline will go dead in about a week. Use the normal jumping rules - +ve goes to battery +ve, -ve goes to a part on the engine (I usually connect to that alloy bar above the intake manifold).

Disconnect the negative terminal if you are not driving the car for extended periods and the battery will stay charged.

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted

heres sumthing ive learnt to do whenever sumone buys a skyline. wen ur battery dies. go to ur local battery shop and buy a 550cca battery that is suiteable for an eb falcon style terminal cut the loops off ur terminal and thread the rod through the battery terminal. also u will need a new hold down bracket for the battery. if fitts perfectly in the spot and give u much more a/h and cca for the car to use. also by the sounds of that mate possibly the terminal is loose and is not makign a good contact check that for starters.

bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

haha all of $135 dollars yeah, put a few mates onto them too, they fit perfectly in an R32 engine bay, was cheaper by FAR to do that, buying the battery off the local mechanic than to even buy a cheap shit 400CCA no name brand one from supercheap etc.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
Battery is dead - jump it. I bought one of those rechargeable battery packs from Supercheap or whatever as my Skyline will go dead in about a week. Use the normal jumping rules - +ve goes to battery +ve, -ve goes to a part on the engine (I usually connect to that alloy bar above the intake manifold).

Disconnect the negative terminal if you are not driving the car for extended periods and the battery will stay charged.

Your battery is f**ked if its going flat in a week :(

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted

haha all of $135 dollars yeah, put a few mates onto them too, they fit perfectly in an R32 engine bay, was cheaper by FAR to do that, buying the battery off the local mechanic than to even buy a cheap shit 400CCA no name brand one from supercheap etc.

[/quote

ahhhh i was refering to r33 boot mounted batterys.... not exactly a bucket load of room in there thats all

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
Your battery is f**ked if its going flat in a week :(

Haha yes its screwed - has been run flat more times than the tires on my gf's mirage.

Turbo timer means I never hear the "you left the lights on retard" warning until its too late, and somehow the fog light switch on the top of the dash gets bumped on every now and then... must be while I am fondling the dash after the car has done something good - which is often.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Measure the battery voltage as you try and start it. I think you will find not anywhere near enough volts available to work the starter motor.

Turbo timer means I never hear the "you left the lights on retard" warning until its too late
Another good reason to not have a turbo timer!
rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
No its not the battery, just had it checked its a bit low 12.1 but with that much charge it should at least make a click but I literally get black silence.

I had a sad battery and it would get like this. Not even a click. If the voltage sags enough on turning the key, the electronics fade out and nothing happens. Turn on a light or two (parking lights, interior light) does it all brown out, when you are supposed to hear at least a click or a rattle?

you can buy a cheap small trickle charger at jaycar (looks like a plug-pack, two LEDs), leave it on for 24 hours then try.

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

Heres a conversation i had with a guy on Antilag with an R32 GTR and similar symptoms :D

Got my car back last Friday all fixed....

Than Saturday morning...

F&CKING STARTER MOTOR DECIDED TO PACK IT IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I swear the car is in the workshop more than on the road!

Will the plenum have to be taken off to get to it to replace it?

Or can it be removed from under the car.

Anyone here done that before?

Sure it's your starter motor?

Mine just clicks sometimes when you turn the key, like a stuck solonoid.

The whole starter motor was removed and reconditioned, yet it still did the exact same thing!

Turns out the fix for them is to run 2 relays in conjunction for the starter motor.

Haven't had a problem since

Wow!!!

Well I only say its the starter motor as my mechanic told me so.

He had the issue arise while he had the car and then it happened to me at the drags once a few weeks back and then it happened again on Saturday.

He checked the wiring (not sure if he checked any relays though).

Hey I hope its that.

Here is a clue:

Sometimes it will start sometimes it will not.

When it does not start, I turn the key, it goes to reds, then if I hold the key on reds, it just makes on click and goes silent. There is no constant clicking (like when you have a flat battery).

Again, sometimes it will just start fine.

It also does not make a difference whether the engine is hot or cold.

Yep thats it.....mine only did it everynow and again so I lived with it....but it would never do it at home....Ohh nooo....it would always do it somewhere that would embarrass the f**k out of me like a busy servo, barbargallo pit lane or something!!!

My mechanic just presumed it was the starter motor also so I paid to have it removed recond and replaced....only for it to be no better.

Run another relay, in conjuction with your existing one....100% problem solved

Dont pull it out before trying this

Mate you are a legend!!

Ran another relay. Its starting awesome now!!

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just had to deal with my brother's car this last weekend for the same thing. Measured 12.6v with everything off, measured ~4v when trying to pull in the solenoid.. Measuring the resting voltage of a stuffed battery won't get you anywhere. Measure what it drops to when going to start.

Psi, normally all the dash indicators and other crap stays on if the starter solenoid isn't pulling in. Adding a pilot relay is still a good idea though, one of the first things I did to my car.

Edited by heller44
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

I used a 40A gp relay, just used the original solenoid signal wire to feed it, and used a fused supply from the battery straight to the relay, then to the solenoid where the wire originally came off. Provides a shorter run of wire and I used a heavier gauge, so there was more juice available to throw the solenoid.

Hope that made sense, bit tired..

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