Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone i just had this idea to put my rx7 on a skyline forum haha im an idiot but anyway this is my RX7 S4 with a RB30DET engine it.

building for drift hopefully to be professional one day

Here are the specs:

Rb25 head, o-ringed, ported, bigger stainless valves, heavy duty valve springs, camtech cams(will put specs on picture)

adjustable cam gears (no VCT)

RB30 bottom end

o-ringed

forged CP pistons (8.5 comp)

spool rods

race bearings

copper head gasket

custom sump

oil filter relocation/cooler kit

custom engine and gearbox mounts

greddy (copy) inlet manifold

80mm thottle body

high mount turbo manifold

50mm external wastegate

To4z turbo (coming soon)

3 inch dump pipe then split into two 2-3/4 inch with two 4-1/2 inch canons

1000cc injecters

big fuel rail

1000hp fuel pressure reg

twin bosch 044 fuel pumps

1/2 inch fuel line

57 litre fuel cell

battery in boot

microtech LT12S

6 bosch coils seperate from engine

R33 gtst 5 speed

rx7 s4 turbo locker diff

coilovers

and other things i just cant think of at the moment

this is a 3 year long project so far and hoping to finish in a couple more months, it started as a s2 rx7 and i changed shells 6 months ago.

im currently in progress of painting it candy apple red, ill add some more pics after its finished painted. anyway here are some pics let me know what you guys think cheers.

post-69885-1263295782_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263295849_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263295926_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263295980_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296033_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296082_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296180_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296248_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296333_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296469_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296506_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296547_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296569_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296596_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296623_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296662_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296807_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296830_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296869_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296907_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296944_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263296987_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263297020_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263297055_thumb.jpg

post-69885-1263297096_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats a fantastic effort... but the only thing that comes to mind is WHY??? :rolleyes: why would you take a light weight and perfectly balanced car like the rx7, take out the lightweight 13b capable of ridiculous power, and drop in a big heavy cast iron rb30??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5032249
Share on other sites

thats a fantastic effort... but the only thing that comes to mind is WHY??? :rolleyes: why would you take a light weight and perfectly balanced car like the rx7, take out the lightweight 13b capable of ridiculous power, and drop in a big heavy cast iron rb30??

RELIABILITY

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5032301
Share on other sites

i can dig that.. should hammer nicely.

coz rb's dont have any oil control problems causing catastrophic bottom end damage. :thumbsup:

While yes they do its easy enough to fix/reduce it.

Rotarys on the other hand running on 2 stroke helps but still you would have to rebuild it a heap making good power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5033757
Share on other sites

While yes they do its easy enough to fix/reduce it.

Rotarys on the other hand running on 2 stroke helps but still you would have to rebuild it a heap making good power

you should have a read of the "why do rotories suck" thread.. they arent as bad as the rep they have for being unpredictable and unreliable.. its all about calculations and driver care.. no different to any car or engine.. plus an rb26 rebuild can cost anywhere from $10000 to $100000.

its easy enough to fix/reduce a rotoray. rotors can be pulled apart, have the apex seals replaced, and put it back together like a sandwich. they have advanced greatly with the seal technology and dont have nearly as many dramas. you may have to replace the seals 5 times to the RB's 1, but its not that hard or expensive and the rewards of the rotary engine make it worth it.

making good power, and making usable power are 2 different things, you can have a ball breaking rotor that is on the limit and gets constantly flogged on dynos/strips.. or you can have a more sedate, well rounded street package that can have no dramas at all and is still ball breaking, but nowhere the limit of explosion.

it all comes down to engine building, tuning, and purpose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5033901
Share on other sites

what sort of power will i be making with a garrett to4z ball bearing turbo? because i want to make 600+HP atw, i cant go too big on the turbo because the car is for drift and dont want too much lag. GCG turbos said it wont get the power im after with a to4z but said i will with a t51r but that is too big and have too much lag wont it?

Edited by SICRX7
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5034683
Share on other sites

so the car is for drift but the engine is a dyno queen??

for drift, a gtrs, 2530, td06, td07, etc, will all be fine. the rb30 should be able to spool up a bigger turbo nearly 1000rpm earlier, so a t51r might not be such a silly idea.. if garrett said your t04 wont make the power, than i guess they are the ones that would know.. but they make 400hp on a rotor, so maybe they dont know.

you cant have both worlds, you either want a ball breaking dyno queen, or a drift car that you can actually get out and thrash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5040217
Share on other sites

so the car is for drift but the engine is a dyno queen??

for drift, a gtrs, 2530, td06, td07, etc, will all be fine. the rb30 should be able to spool up a bigger turbo nearly 1000rpm earlier, so a t51r might not be such a silly idea.. if garrett said your t04 wont make the power, than i guess they are the ones that would know.. but they make 400hp on a rotor, so maybe they dont know.

you cant have both worlds, you either want a ball breaking dyno queen, or a drift car that you can actually get out and thrash.

yeah i understand i might just go with a to4z because a t51r would be overkill and have too much lag

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5050311
Share on other sites

Madness. Love it.

But seriously, area under the curve is much more important then having X amount of power for drift.

What inlet manifold do you run bloke?

Edited by Flipmo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5062147
Share on other sites

I farken hate you mate! Ive dreamt of doing that exact same project for so long. Ive always been torn because i love skylines as well.

Good luck with it though. Its looking awesome and im insanely jealous!

Question though? Have you beefed up those engine mounts anymore since the first pic of them. Where the two halfs join at the bend. It doesnt look to be very reinforced (gusseted) for the sort of weight that will be hanging off them. I know those drift cars can bounce around a fair bit on tracks and also when they run off the track and the hard suspension wont help it much either (though i am assuming you will be running hard springs as thats what most do when running *JAP* spec drifting coilovers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303638-rb30det-rx7/#findComment-5072229
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...