Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a good upgrade might be a factory GTR clutch and flywheel (from early R32) i have a billet lightweight GTR flywheel and Excedy HD GTR clutch in mine, clutch grip is phenomenal (second gear clutch drop lights all 4s with fat tyres) on RB25DE+T but you pay for it with your left leg, it is brutal heavy and bitey, Ive got a mate with a 4000lB Jim berry full monty clutch, and that's light as a feather compared.

i bought a gtr exedy clutch is thats and good

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
how do you know if a GTS4 is a S1 or S2? Also do they use the exact same drivetrain as an r33GTR, gearbox and diff?? Also would an rb25neo mate easily in the r33 chasis.

S1-(1993 - 1995) S2-(1996 - 1998) S2 would have the following : it would have different rear wing different, front ba,r different steering wheel, have passenger airbag, different seats i think its just really obvious.

Chassis number would be ERN33 on a GTS-4, you would see a transfer case in the engine bay to the left of it ( on the drivers side) right down under the engine

all specs can be looked at here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATTESA (look for ATTESA E-TS system)

ATTESA E-TS system is used in the following models:

* R32 and R33 (1989-1997) GTS4 Skyline

* GT-R - 1989–2003

* Nissan Stagea

* A31 Cefiro

* Infiniti G35x/Nissan Skyline (V35 & V36)

* Infiniti M

* Infiniti FX

* Infiniti EX35 (with Active Brake Limited Split for side-to-side torque split, as needed)

* Nissan Fuga (Known as Infiniti M in export markets)

Edited by niiko101

how come my cluster and another r33 cluster is different the other one has slip light and A-LSD light in the middle of the rev counter and mine doesn't could this be due to cluster change or mine just doesn't come with it.

post-69895-1267600362_thumb.jpg

post-69895-1267600390_thumb.jpg

Edited by niiko101
You must have had your dash replaced, maybe with a lower k one?

Mine has a Slip light and a 4WD light. They both come on with ignition but I've never had the 4WD light up, only the slip.

if i got a proper gts-4 cluster how would i go about wiring up the slip and awd lights?

Edited by niiko101

the plugs on the back of the dash should both be the same so it should just be a case of unplug 1 dash and plug in the other. doubt there will be any need to touch any wiring as it should just be 1 or 2 big plugs (can't remember if it's 1 oe 2 plugs)

the plugs on the back of the dash should both be the same so it should just be a case of unplug 1 dash and plug in the other. doubt there will be any need to touch any wiring as it should just be 1 or 2 big plugs (can't remember if it's 1 oe 2 plugs)

The first picture is of an automatic gts-4, dont ask me why but the automatic gts-4 has a A-LSD light (As you can see in an owners manual for r33's) where as the manual skyline has a 4WD light instead of a A-LSD light, they are the same thing and they still have a A-LSD in the rear wherther it be auto or manual transmition......

Also that picture says the orange warning light is transmition well thats bullshit because its a engine warning light so dont believe that,

R33 GTS4 CLUSTER SERIES 1 AND 1.5

(right side of cluster) The 2 ontop you should have a seat belt reminder light (i dont think this works with compliance seatbelts), engine warning light,

Then the 3 below are, oil pressure warning light, exhuast warning light and battery warning light.

(left side of cluster) The 2 ontop are, door ajar, SRS air bag warning light

Then the 3 below are Low fuel warning light, ABS warning light, Brake warning light (used for handbrake but also reads when your low and brake fluid)

Then you should have 5 gauges, following from left - right

Water tempature, Fuel , Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil pressure

So far thats a GTS cluster, the last two things are a GTS4 thing and its SLIP and 4WD inbetween the Tachometer

Judging the second picture is yours, the cluster is a GTS one. It will work fine in a GTS-4 because its got a few pins missing that the GTS-4 cluster uses for the SLIP and 4WD lights. There for the 3 plugs on the back plug in as normal but the extra pins on the plugs for the GTS-4 for your SLIP and 4WD lights have nothing too do.

Has anyone ever seen there SRS, Fuel or seat belt lights in the working? i cant get any of them up when i have igntion on and am suspection the seat belt one wont work......but fuel never comes on when im low and just have never seen the SRS one and im not game too make that one show :D

The first picture is of an automatic gts-4, dont ask me why but the automatic gts-4 has a A-LSD light (As you can see in an owners manual for r33's) where as the manual skyline has a 4WD light instead of a A-LSD light, they are the same thing and they still have a A-LSD in the rear wherther it be auto or manual transmition......

Also that picture says the orange warning light is transmition well thats bullshit because its a engine warning light so dont believe that,

R33 GTS4 CLUSTER SERIES 1 AND 1.5

(right side of cluster) The 2 ontop you should have a seat belt reminder light (i dont think this works with compliance seatbelts), engine warning light,

Then the 3 below are, oil pressure warning light, exhuast warning light and battery warning light.

(left side of cluster) The 2 ontop are, door ajar, SRS air bag warning light

Then the 3 below are Low fuel warning light, ABS warning light, Brake warning light (used for handbrake but also reads when your low and brake fluid)

Then you should have 5 gauges, following from left - right

Water tempature, Fuel , Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil pressure

So far thats a GTS cluster, the last two things are a GTS4 thing and its SLIP and 4WD inbetween the Tachometer

Judging the second picture is yours, the cluster is a GTS one. It will work fine in a GTS-4 because its got a few pins missing that the GTS-4 cluster uses for the SLIP and 4WD lights. There for the 3 plugs on the back plug in as normal but the extra pins on the plugs for the GTS-4 for your SLIP and 4WD lights have nothing too do.

Has anyone ever seen there SRS, Fuel or seat belt lights in the working? i cant get any of them up when i have igntion on and am suspection the seat belt one wont work......but fuel never comes on when im low and just have never seen the SRS one and im not game too make that one show :D

thanks for that, lol nah i have never seen the fuel or srs one come on ither, my seat belt one works tho

Edited by niiko101
  • 2 weeks later...
different car i know, but my SRS light comes on in my pulsar everytime i start the car. can't remember if it did in my 33 or not, been too long since i owned it
'

only does it for me on start up

Edited by niiko101

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven’t played with her in a while, but I’m back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 🤞
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
×
×
  • Create New...