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Yep.

Ok, so assuming yep means they are adjustable, given the casing seems to be a sealed unit I'll have to assume that adjusting the shaft length :(>_< is where the adjustment takes place. If so, the next question is how much & where from. Wouldn't mind knowing the process of how they're calibrated either, but I have a feeling that could be hard and long and boring to explain.

There are a pair available on the forum for $200 set to 15psi done by CRD on the bench, with little use since they were done, so my guess is that these are a good option (as long as they are what they're said to be).

Thanks for all your input so far.

Yeah, I guess it does. Here are some pics of mine. Any chance they're adjustable? The 'head' looks to be sealed but there is adjustment on the shaft :( where it meets the wastegate lever.

They are adjustable

You wind them so that they are tensioned more to hold the wastegate shut.

before you put them in, check what pressure they open up using a pump with a pressure gauge of some sort. Much easier to do out of the car. You want them to be the same.

I adapted a radiator pressure tester to do mine.

They are adjustable

You wind them so that they are tensioned more to hold the wastegate shut.

before you put them in, check what pressure they open up using a pump with a pressure gauge of some sort. Much easier to do out of the car. You want them to be the same.

I adapted a radiator pressure tester to do mine.

Thanks but that's all too hard for me. Bumper stickers are my limit, but good to know they can be adjusted. Just a matter of finding someone who can do it for me and for how much.

Thanks but that's all too hard for me. Bumper stickers are my limit, but good to know they can be adjusted. Just a matter of finding someone who can do it for me and for how much.

Who ever you get to install the turbos should be able to do it for you or whoever is tuning the car as you can still get access to them when they are installed.

As long as they are the same, then the EBC should be able to take car of the PSI you want to run.

If so, the next question is how much & where from.

I have the HKS actuators. You loosen the jam nut and turn the shaft on the vacuum side. The HKS units are about .125bar per complete rotation. I am not sure if this is linear, it may raise more per ratation higher up.

The pics you post show adjustable actuators, so they are going to be fine :thumbsup: save the cash for a ebc. I like to keep the physical gate pressure (cracking point) and the ebc set pressure within 10-odd psi as much more generally results in differing amounts of boost drop.

In the pic below the adjustment on the end of the actuator allows you to "preload" the amount of pressure on the wastegate flap. there should be enough adjustment to stop any large amount of boost drop. Most factory actuators dont have the ajustable actuator rod.

post-34927-1263467677_thumb.jpg

Before I fitted my -5s I gave the actuator rods a few turns. All I did was make sure they were done evenly, assuming the original setting was the same on each actuator. I may have turned them about 5 turns tighter but this was 2 years ago.

This was to reduce the amount of work needing to be done by the Boost Controller - as stated above.

Using aluminium pipe with a hole drilled in the side of it to bleed the actuator signal, my boost holds absolutely dead flat. No EBC or boost tee. I guess you could call it a fixed boost tee.

If I was you, I would just put a few turns on the rods to give you a higher base, then let the EBC tidy things up if needed.

Should have just posted the pics up sooner! Appreciate all the help and feedback. Been a good learning curve and in the end I've got what I need anyways, so thanks to all contributors.

  • 1 year later...

old thread but its exactly what im after ! good ol' SAU :P

ive got the same -7 turbos with the same adjustable actuators, now with my profec b turned off (running wastegate pressure) it runs almost 10psi boost.

would "shortening" the actuator arm be of any benefit? i do get boost drop at high RPM

how much should i tighten the arms? afew turns? about 5mm?

im currently running 18psi

also i dont know if thinking this is right, but if we tighten the arm say "5mm" or so, would there still be enough travel in the arm to fully open the wastegate flap? or would it not be opening completly as its now shorter?

sorry about all the questions but hopefuly someone can teach me :)

cheers guys

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